LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 





THE 



PRACTICAL 
SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 



THE 

PRACTICAL 
SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER: 

COMPRISING 

DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING, THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 

FINE WASHING, BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW 

HATS, GLOVES AND FEATHERS OF ALL KINDS, 

DYEING OF WORN CLOTHES OF ALL FABRICS, INCLUDING 

MIXED GOODS, BY ONE DIP, 

AND THE 

MANUFACTURE OF SOAPS AND FLUIDS FOR 
CLEANSING PURPOSES. 



EDITED BY 

WILLIAM T.^RANNT, 

EDITOR OP " THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK." 



ILLUSTRATED. 



[IA: ' 



PHILADELPH] 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 

810 WALNUT STREET. 

1893. 



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Copyright by 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. 

1892. 



Printed at the COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE, 

705 Jayne Street, 
Philadelphia, U. S. A. 



PREFACE. 



Chemistry plays such an important part not only in 
the industries but also in the household, especially as 
regards washing and the removal of stains, that no 
apology is needed for the publication of a work, the aim 
of which is to give practical and approved methods for 
dry or chemical scouring, the art of removing stains, 
fine washing, bleaching and dyeing straw hats, cleansing 
and dyeing gloves, dyeing feathers and garments, as well 
as a large amount of other useful information.- 

The book being intended not only for the professional 
scourer and dyer, but also for use in the family, it has 
been endeavored to avoid all unnecessary technicalities 
and to give the various processes in such a way as to 
make them readily understood and easy of execution. 

The editor desires to acknowledge his indebtedness to 
the German works " Die Kunst-und Fein-Waescherei" 
by Yictor Joclet, and " Die Putzfedernfaerberei und 
Lappenfaerberei" by Louis Lau, from which he has 
freely drawn, several entire chapters having been trans- 
lated from them, and takes pleasure in expressing his 
obligations to the enterprising publishers for the assist- 



VI 



PREFACE. 



ance rendered to him by a liberal supply of books and 
journals. 

Finally, it remains only to be stated that the book has 
been provided with a copious table of contents and a 
very full index which will render any subject in it easy 
and prompt of reference. 

W. T. B. 



Philadelphia, Dec. 15, 1892. 



CONTENTS, 



I. Dry or Chemical Cleansing. 

page 

Introduction of dry cleansing, in 1866, by M. Judlin ; What 
dry cleansing consists in ; Materials used in dry cleansing ; 
Oil of turpentine . . . . . . . .17 

Benzine or petroleum benzine ; Benzol ; Brown-coal ben- 
zine ; Mode of distinguishing benzol from petroleum ben- 
zine, and testing the former as to its purity . . .19 

Properties of benzol upon which its employment for technical 
purposes is based ........ 20 

Methods for executing dry cleansing ; Mode of procedure on 
a small scale; The "tampion" and its use ... 21 

Resistance of stains produced by alkalies, acid, sugar, milk, 
etc., as well as sweat stains, to the action of benzol ; Vessel 
for draining the cleansed articles ; Washing of silk articles ; 
Process for working on a larger scale ; Drums or washing 
machines .28 

Drying boxes ; Purification of the waste hydrocarbons, 
whether benzol or petroleum benzine . . . .25 

Apparatus for the purpose, illustrated and described . . 26 

Heating of the drying boxes ; Fabrics and stuffs for which 
dry or chemical cleansing may be employed . . .29 

Articles not suitable for dry cleansing ; After-treatment of 
the cleansed articles ; Removal of stains of oil-paint and 
resins 30 

Apparatus for raising the pile of very woolly articles; Pre- 
cautions to be observed in the use of benzol and petroleum 
benzine, as well as oil of turpentine . . . .31 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

II. The Art of Removing Stains. 

page 

Distinction in the stains according to their nature ; Removal 
of stains from white goods . . . . . .32 

Materials used for the removal of stains ; Ether . . 33 

Detection of water and alcohol in ether; Chloroform, and 
manner of testing it . . . . . . .34 

Alcohol and spirits of wine ; Aqua ammonise (water of am- 
monia) and its varieties . . . . . . .35 

Glycerin; Borax and its adulterations . . . .36 

Method of testing borax ; Hyposulphite of sodium; Stannous 
chloride, or tin salt . . . . . . .37 

Chloride of lime ; Eau de Javelle ; Wilson's bleaching fluid ; 
Ramsey's or Grouvelle's bleaching fluid . . . .38 

Chlorine water ; Acetic acid ; Tartaric acid . . .39 

Citric acid ; Oxalic acid ; Acid oxalate, or binoxalate of 
potassium, popularly called salt of sorrel ; Hydrochloric 
acid ; Ox-gall, and how to purify it .... 40 

Tools for removing stains ; Dust-stains ; Stains of unknown 
derivation ; Mixture for cleaning woollen goods . . 41 

Treatment of silk, satin, etc. ; Grease stains ; Benzol-mag- 
nesia and its preparation ...... 42 

Gelatinized benzol and its preparation .... 43 

Ether-magnesia and its preparation ; Oil-paint and varnish 
stains ; Stains of resin, tar, or wagon grease ... 44 

Stearin and wax-stains ; Fruit-stains . . . . .45 

Stains of red wine, cherries, whortleberries, etc. ; Milk- and 
coffee-stains . . . . . . . . .46 

Soup-stains, as well as smaller grease-stains in general . 47 

Stains of beer, wine, punch, sugar, gelatine, glue, etc. ; 
Grass-stains ; Stains from green nuts, as well as so-called 
tannin-stains ; Acid-stains. . . . . . .48 

Nitric acid-stains ; Stains of vinegar, sour wine, etc. ; Lye- 
and lime-stains ; Urine-stains ; Ink- and iron-mould-stains ; 
Distinction in ink-stains . . . . . .49 

Blood-stains ; Table giving the best means of cleaning all 
kinds of fabrics from any stain whatever . . .52 



CONTENTS. IX 

PAGE 

The general principle of removing stains ; Special directions 
for the garment dyer .54 

III. Fine Washing. 

Washing woollen goods. . . . . . . .57 

Washing flannels . . . . . . . . .58 

Restoration of the original whiteness of woollen and mixed 

goods which have turned yellow 59 

Washing of woollen shawls and borders with colored em- 
broidery, as well as of garments of muslin de laine and 
similar fabrics . . . * . . . .60 

Washing white curtains, laces, and embroideries . . 61 

Another method of washing curtains ; Preparation of starch 
for curtains ; Manner of tinting curtains . . . .62 

Cleansing satin, silk ribbons, brocade, and silk damask ; To 
clean black silk ; To clean white silk .... 63 

To renovate black silk ; To cleanse silk and silver galloons. 64 
To wash gold galloons, gold embroideries, silver laces, or 
embroideries, silk fabrics, and tissues . . . .65 

To wash laces ......... 66 

To wash white silk crape ; To wash white gauze . . 68 

To wash fine muslins, batists, etc. ; To wash white, black, 
and colored veils . . . . . . . .69 

Washing of calicoes, as well as other cotton goods and 

fabrics ; Washing of nankeen and nankeen garments . 70 
Cleansing white and black taffeta, embroidered fabrics, or 
muslin, linen, as well as cloths, caps, etc., woven with 
gold ; To clean velvets, velveteens, and plush . . 71 

To restore the pile of velvet ; Concise statement regarding 
the cleansing of various fabrics and renovation of the 

attacked colors 72 

Cleansing of soiled or stained woollen goods, such as cash- 
mere, merino, etc. ; Treatment of white satin and nearly 
all silk fabrics ........ 73 

To cleanse colored silk fabrics 74 



X CONTEXTS. 

To cleanse silks dyed blue, or the various shades of violet ; 
Scouring of olive-green silks ; To clean and wash black 
silk 

To freshen up carpets without taking them up . 

To wash smaller and ordinary carpets 

To cleanse and wash white sheepskins ; To cleanse white 
wooUen blankets ; The sulphuring-chamber 



IV. Bleaching and Dyeing of Straw Hats 

Washing hats not too much soiled .... 
Decoloration (bleaching) of straw .... 
Washing the straw articles ..... 

Bleaching with chloride of lime ; Preparation of the chloride 

of lime solution ....... 

Apparatus for the purpose, illustrated and described . 
Vessels for bleaching straw articles ; Use of hypochlorites 

(bleaching fluids) 

Bleaching with sulphurous acid in a gaseous state and in the 

form of an aqueous solution ..... 

Dyeing straw black ... 

Silver gray on straw ....... 

Chestnut brown and medium brown on straw ; The cheapest 

brown on straw hats . 
Havana brown ; Catechu brown ; Maroon ; Violet 

Yellow 

Solution of aniline colors ; Shades which may be produced 

with aniline colors ....... 

V. Cleansing and Dyeing of Gloves. 

Cleansing Suede gloves ; Cleansing chamois, buckskin, and 
undressed kid gloves ....... 92 

Cleansing kid gloves ; Mixture for cleansing kid gloves . 93 
Dyeing kid gloves ; Black . . . . . .94 

Brown ; Morocco-red ; Gray ; Use of aniline colors for dye- 
ing leather ......... 95 

Dyeing gloves with aniline colors; Red ; Violet; Blue . 96 
Green; Yellow and brown. . . . . . .97 



75 

76 

77 

78 



79 
80 
81 

82 
83 

85 

86 
87 
88 



90 
91 



CONTENTS. XI 



VI. Dyking of Feathers. 

page 
Treatment in general ; Manner of effecting the addition of 
coloring-matter ........ 98 

99 
Feathers 

. 100 
. 101 



Treatment of portions of birds . 

Dyeing ostrich feathers ; Cleansing large feathers 

in bulk ; Decolorizing .... 
Freeing from grease ..... 
Removing natural brown spots and points from white 

feathers 102 

Dyeing ostrich feathers black . . . . . .103 

Dyeing ostrich feathers bronze ; Green ; Olive ; Gold ; Other 

colors including fashionable colors ; Cream, ivory . . 105 
Rose, Venus ; Salmon ; Paille, maize, bamboo ; Ciel, azure, 

pale blue; Butter, bouton d'or, mandarin, coq roche . 106 
Parme, heliotrope, prune ; Gold, old gold; Gray; Coquilicot, 

cardinal ; Garnet ; Beige, tobacco, Siam, and intervening 

shades 107 

Chartreuse-pale yellow-green ; Cresson — dull yellow-green ; 

Olive; Vesuve, Etna — dull fiery tones; Vieux-rose ; 

Marine, admiral . . . . . . . .108 

Russe ; Gray-blue colors ; Green-blue colors ; Maroon, loutre ; 

Ombre (shaded) tricolored 109 

Borde (bordered feathers) ; Light mirror, dark border . Ill 
Dark mirror, light border . . . . . . .112 

Dyeing fancy feathers; Cleansing; Definition of fancy 

feathers ; Washing fancy feathers . . . . .114 
Decolorizing ; Freeing from fat ; Treatment of white 

feathers . . . . . . . . .115 

Dyeing black ; Chicken feathers ; Mordanting , . .116 

Dyeing 117 

Treatment with chlorine ; Turkey feathers . . .118 

Pigeon feathers ; Goose and duck feathers ; Peacock feathers 119 
Parrot feathers; Skins of kingfishers and magpies ; All other 

kinds of birds, wings, skins, heads, and tails ; Bronze ; 

Green, olive, gold ; Other colors including fashionable 

colors; Ombre . . , 120 



Xll CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Changeant; Drying of feathers ..... 121 

The drying drum ...... .122 

VII. Dyeing Garments. 

General remarks ; Dyeing silk garments and ribbons . .123 

Precautions to be observed after washing the articles and in 
dyeing ; Dyes to be used . . . . . 124 

Washing the garments, etc. ; Dyeing silk garments, etc., 

black; Lustrous black ; Pickling; Mordanting . .125 

Deep black; Treatment with chlorine . . . .126 

English iron black ; Dyeing with fustic or quercitron ; 

Preparation of chlorine solution (Javelle water) . . 127 

Chlorine solution for English black ; Preparation of nitrate 
of iron ; Preparation of English iron ; Dyeing silk gar- 
ments, etc., dark brown . . . . . .128 

Coffee brown . . . . . . . . .129 

Tobacco brown ; Gold; Bordeaux ..... 130 

Garnet ; Ponceau ; Bright red ; Preparation of tin mor- 
dant ; Cardinal . . . . . . . .131 

Scarlet; Cream; Ivory; Rose-color; Salmon; Carail . 132 
Pale blue, ciel ; Alkaline blue ; Marine-blue . . . 133 
Heliotrope ; Prune ; Gensdarme ; Peacock-blue . . 134 

Steel-blue ; Gray-blue ; Vesuve (dull fiery tones) ; Siam ; 

Silver-gray . . . . , . . . .135 

Vieux-rose ; Beige ; Gray ; Bright green ; May green ; 

Chartreuse (pale yellow-green) . . . . .136 

Pale green ; Green ; Cresson (dull yellow-green) ; Moss- 
green ; Russia green . . . . . . .137 

Olive; Cinnamon-brown; Pensee ; Yellow; Mandarin; 

Fancy colors and all other intermediate colors . .138 

Materials for the ground-tones ; Dyeing of genuine velvet . 139 
Dyeing woollen garments and fabrics . . . .139 

Washing; Dyeing black ; Naphthol black; Imperial black 140 
Potash black ; Beaver black . . . . . .141 

Dark brown ; Archil-brown ; Preparation of indigo sulphate ; 

Dyeing chrome-brown, also for cloth articles . . .142 



CONTENTS. Xlll 



Wood-brown; Wood-brown for cloth articles, perfectly fast ; 

Sanders-brown . . . . . . . .143 

Coffee-brown; For cloth articles ; Bordeaux . . . 144 

Bordeaux for cloth articles ; Red-brown ; For cloth articles ; 
Marine-blue . . . . . . . . . 145 

Marine-blue for cloth articles ; Ponceau . . . .146 

Alizarine red for cloth articles ; Bismarck ; For cloth arti- 
cles ; Bright blue ........ 147 

Alkaline blue ; Gray ; For cloth articles ; Beige ; For cloth 
articles 148 

Green ; Bright green ; May green ; Chartreuse ; For cloth 
articles; Cresson; Russia-green . „ . . .149 

Russia-green for cloth articles; Moss-green ; For cloth arti- 
cles; Olive-green; For cloth articles . . . .150 

Olive-green for cloth articles ; Mode ; Bronze ; For cloth 
articles ; Prune . . . . . . . .151 

Pensee; For cloth articles ; Yellow; Buttercup-yellow . 152 

Yellow for cloth articles ; Havana ; Production of all fancy 
colors more suitable for garments ; Mordants for light, 
intermediate, and dark colors ; Coloring-matters for the 
three-ground colors . . . . . . .153 

Production of all fancy colors more suitable for cloth articles ; 
Mordant; Dyeing; To dye sheepskins . . . .154 

Dyeing cotton and linen garments and fabrics ; Removal of 
foreign substances from the fabrics ; Affinity of the vege- 
table fibre for coloring- matters . . . . .155 

Dyeing black 

Dyeing velvet black ; Dark brown .... 

Preparation of acetate of alumina mordant ; Dyeing coffee 
brown ; Bordeaux ....... 

Marine-blue ; Potash-blue ...... 

Bright-blue ; Ponceau ; Turkish-red ; Preparation of tin 
mordant ; Dyeing chamois ..... 

Flesh-color ; Orange ; Green ; Bright-green ; May-green 
Dark-green 



Dark-green; Yellow; Chrome-yellow; Pensee; Heliotrope 162 
Dark pens§e ; Rose-color; Gray . . . . .163 



156 

157 

158 
159 

160 

161 



XIV CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Cream; Mode . . . .164 

Olive 165 

Olive-brown; Gensdarme ; Production of fancy colors on 
cotton, etc. ; Light colors ; Medium colors ; Bordeaux ; 
Dark colors . . . . . . . . .166 

Dyeing garments and fabrics of mixed fibres ; Black, com- 
bined method for wool and cotton ..... 167 

Black, combined method for wool and silk ; Brown, com- 
bined method for wool and cotton ; Gray, combined method 
for wool and cotton ; Violet-gray, combined method for 
wool and cotton . . . . . . . .169 

Silver-gray, combined method for wool and cotton ; Pens6e, 
combined method for wool and cotton ; Green and gens- 
darme blue, combined method for wool and silk ; Direc- 
tions for dyeing half-woollen goods when each kind of 
fibre is to be dyed by itself; Black , . . .170 

Brown 171 

Marine-blue ; Bordeaux ; Green ; May-green ; Russia-green 1 72 

Dyeing half-woollen cloth articles ; Changeant ; Black and 
white; Cream and rose-colors . . . . .173 

Brown and green, as well as olive ; Sizing ; To free plush 
from fibres after dyeing . . . . . 174 

VIII. Preparation of Various Soaps and Compounds 
for the Removal of Stains. 

Ox-gall soap . . . . . . . . .175 

Erasive soap to remove stains and grease from clothing ; 
Soap for removing stains ; Cleansing fluid ; Cleansing 
fluid for coarser fabrics ; Cleansing fluid for leather and 
tissues ; Winkler's cleansing fluid ; English cleansing fluid 176 

Scouring water ; Ox-gall scouring water ; Scouring water 
to remove rust-spots from linen, etc. ; Cloth cleaning 
compound . . . . . . . . .177 

Lightning eradicator ; Grease extractor; Le Clerc's scour- 
ing liquid . . . . . . . . .178 

Scouring balls ; Brown scouring ball ; Green scouring ball ; 
Dry scouring ball ; Scouring ball for silk garments and 
fabrics ; Scouring ball for pitch, wax, and oil-paint spots . 179 



CONTENTS. XV 

PAGE 

Scouring ball for resin- and grease-spots ; Black scouring 
ball ; Scouring ball with yolk of <igg ; Scouring ball for 
grease- spots ; Scouring ball for vinegar- and wine-spots ; 
Soap for cleansing cloth and tissues . . . .180 

Ganteine ; Saponine . . . . . . . .181 

IX. Determination of Fast and Fugitive Colors, as 

WELL AS OF THE VARIOUS TEXTILE FABRICS. 

Cellulose the basis of all vegetable textile fibres . . .181 

Conversion of the vegetable fibre into gun-cotton ; Schweitz- 
er's reagent ; Test for wool ...... 182 

Test for silk ; Detection of vegetable fibres in a tissue of 
wool and silk . . . . . . . .183 

E. Kopp's method; Use of artificially prepared coloring- 
matters for testing mixed tissues . . . . .184 

Detection of silk in wool, or wool in silk, in white, or light- 
colored tissues . . . . . . . .185 

Examination of dyed textile fibres and tissues, as well as of 
garments in general . . . . . . .186 

J. Fol's method of testing dyed fabrics as to the principal 
colors ; Blue ; Principal coloring-matters which have to 
be considered ; Mode of testing . . . . .187 

Yellow ; Principal coloring- matters and process of determin- 
ing them . . . . . . . . .188 

Red ; Principal coloring-matters and manner of determining 
them 189 

Green ; Varieties of green ; Mixed greens ; Procedure for 
recognizing the green coloring-matters .... 190 

Violet; Principal colors and their determination . .191 

Index 193 



THE 



PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 



I. 

DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 

No other branch of a modern industry is veiled in as 
much mystery, and yet so simple, as the so-called dry 
cleansing for the removal of dirt from worn garments 
and stuffs. It was introduced, in 1866, by M. Judlin, 
and is now almost everywhere used in large cities. 

Dry cleansing simply consists in removing the dirt 
from worn stuffs with the assistance of oil of turpentine, 
benzine, benzol, or another fluid capable of dissolving 
grease. 

Most dirt-stains consist of grease or resin covered 
with dust or a coloring-matter. By removing the grease 
or resin the dust loses its hold and the stain disappears. 

As previously stated, for this cleansing process are 
used either, a, oil of turpentine ; 6, benzine ; or e, benzol. 

Oil of turpentine is obtained by distilling the oleoresin- 
ous exudation of various species of Pinus. The crude 
turpentine is put into a large still, heat is applied, and 
a little w T ater from time to time added to the contents of 
the still. The distillation is continued as long as oil 
passes over, when the resinous mass is run off through a 
stop-cock placed at the bottom of the still, is passed 
2 



18 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

through several strainers, and then constitutes rosin. 
On condensing the distillate, the oil of turpentine sepa- 
rates from the water, and is dipped into the barrels in 
which it enters commerce. 

Oil of turpentine is a colorless, thin, volatile liquid, 
the density of which varies between 0.855 and 0.87. 
When recently rectified, it boils at about 302° F., but 
the temperature usually rises as the distillation pro- 
gresses, and old oil does not generally commence to boil 
below 311° or 320° F. 

Of the different varieties of oil of turpentine the 
French oil is the best, it possessing a somewhat finer 
odor. Next in order is the American oil of turpentine, 
while the Austrian product cannot be so highly recom- 
mended, it always showing a slightly yellowish color, 
even when thoroughly rectified. 

German oil of turpentine, obtained by the dry dis- 
tillation of various species of Pinus, should not be used, 
it possessing a peculiar odor which cannot be removed 
from the stuffs treated with it. Besides, it rapidly turns 
vellow in the air, and resinifies. 

Although oil of turpentine is an excellent solvent for 
resins, fats, etc., it possesses the disadvantage of rapidly 
absorbing oxygen from the air and resinifying. For 
this reason it is but seldom used, and then only w T hen 
thoroughly rectified over lime, chalk, chloride of lime, 
or similar substances, and if it has not been stored for 
any length of time. 

There is no good reason for the generally prevailing 
idea that oil of turpentine, when used for cleansing silk 
stuffs, imparts to them a soft feel, an increased lustre 
and softness. 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 19 

Benzine or petroleum benzine. This fluid must not be 
confounded with petroleum ether. The latter is a color- 
less, ethereal, very inflammable liquid, which evolves gas 
at as low a temperature as 86° F., and commences to 
boil at 122° to 140° F. 

Benzine is the portion of crude petroleum which passes 
over at between 212° and 284° F. In a pure state it is 
colorless, very mobile, possesses a peculiar odor, and is 
one of the best solvents for fats, resins, etc. If it is to be 
used for cleansing purposes, it should not leave behind 
a residue or any odor when evaporated in a porcelain 
dish. 

Benzol. It is this fluid which is generally used, and 
to it is chiefly due the great reputation dry cleansing 
at present enjoys, because the operation proceeds very 
rapidly, and the lustre and finish of the stuffs suffer no 
injury whatever. 

Benzol is obtained from coal-tar, one of the secondary 
products of coal-gas manufacture. It is colorless, of 
considerable refractive power, mobile, of a peculiar, not 
disagreeable odor, boils at from 176° to 212° F., and 
burns w r ith a bright flame, depositing much soot. 

Besides the above mentioned benzin and benzol, there 
is also found in commerce the so-called brown-coal ben- 
zin ; it is distinguished from a good quality of benzol by 
its odor, w 7 hich resembles radish and onions. 

To distinguish benzol from petroleum benzin and to 
test the former as to its purity, proceed as follows : — 

Mix 2 parts of concentrated sulphuric acid with 1 
part of strong nitric acid (1.84 specific gravity). Into 
this mixture allow to flow, with constant cooling, 1 part 
of the benzol to be tested, and finally heat gently to 



20 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

about 140° F. Then pour the cold mixture into water. 
By the action of the nitric acid upon pure benzol, nitro- 
benzol is produced, which separates on the bottom of 
the glass as a heavy oily fluid with a strong odor resem- 
bling that of oil of bitter almonds, while the greater 
portion of the petroleum benzin, which remains un- 
changed, floats as a light, colorless layer upon the sur- 
face. However, small portions of petroleum benzin 
may be admixed with the nitrobenzol. Therefore, pour 
over the product separated by the water dilute sulphuric 
acid, and for some time treat the fluid with metallic zinc 
until a vigorous evolution of hydrogen takes place. The 
nitrobenzol is thereby reduced to aniline, while the 
petroleum benzin remains unchanged. By subjecting 
the very acid fluid to distillation, aniline sulphate re- 
mains behind, while the petroleum benzin passes over. 

As a simpler method for distinguishing benzol from 
petroleum-benzin, Pusch recommends iodine, which dis- 
solves in the latter with a raspberry-red, and in benzol 
with a violet-red color ; the former color is so intense 
that a small admixture of benzin can be recognized by 
neutralizing the violet tint. 

The employment of benzol for technical purposes is 
based upon the following properties : It dissolves all 
fats as well as most resins, and has the great advantage, 
especially over oil of turpentine, of rapidly volatilizing 
without leaving behind the slightest odor. 

By the absorption of atmospheric oxygen, oil of tur- 
pentine, as previously mentioned, is rapidly changed and 
resinifies, whereby it imparts a disagreeable odor to all 
articles, the product formed being no longer volatile. 

Furthermore, even the most delicate colors of tissues 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 21 

are not attacked by benzol, and new stuffs frequently 
acquire a much finer appearance when washed with it 
previously to being sold. In England this is frequently 
done with carpets, whereby the grease, which has pene- 
trated into the tissue during fabrication, is removed, and 
the colors appear in their full splendor. 

There are a number of methods for executing dry 
cleansing, according to whether the work is to be done 
on a large or a small scale. 

In the latter case the procedure is as follows : — 

Five vessels sufficiently large to allow of the conve- 
nient handling of the stuffs to be treated in them are used. 
The vessels may be of zinc-sheet, though it is better to 
have them made of copper-sheet, or to employ large stone- 
ware pots such as are much used in the chemical industry. 
Each vessel should be provided with a well-fitting lid. 
The vessels should be cylindrical in form and greater in 
depth than diameter. 

Fill the vessels three-quarters full with benzol, and 
then sort the articles which are to be cleansed. Sepa- 
rate the lighter from the darker, and in this manner 
arrange several piles of articles. Spread out each article, 
first the lighter and last the darker, upon a table covered 
with zinc-sheet and remove the worst stains. For this pur- 
pose tie a piece of wadding, the size of a fist and made into 
a ball, into a piece of white linen so that the corners of 
the latter can be used as a~handle. This contrivance is 
called a "tampion." Now dip the tampion into benzol 
in a dish until it is thoroughly saturated, and vigorously 
rub the dirtiest places until the greater portion of the 
dirt is removed. Proceed in the same manner w 7 ith all 
the articles, the darker being taken last, because by 



22 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

repeatedly dipping the tampion into the benzol, the latter 
acquires a darker color. 

The benzol remaining after the operation is finished 
is poured into a large vessel, which is provided with a 
well-fitting lid. Now wash the articles treated with the 
tampion, one after the other, in vessel No. 1, throw them 
into vessel No. 2, and cover the latter. Then thoroughly 
wash lot No. 1 w^ith the hands, and in the meanwhile 
bring the articles in vessel No. 2 into No. 3. Now throw 
the washed lot No. 1 into vessel No. 2, and then com- 
mence washing the next lot, bringing in the meanwhile 
the articles in vessel No. 3 into No. 4 and those in No. 2 
into No. 3. The lot washed next is then thrown into 
vessel No. 2. 

This changing of the articles from one vessel to the 
other is done for the purpose of always bringing the 
first lot, that is, the white pieces, in contact with pure 
benzol, the latter becoming constantly darker by wash- 
ing the articles. The articles first treated are finally 
again washed in vessel No. 5, then spread out upon the 
table and examined. If dirty places are still found, 
the articles are rubbed with a clean tampion dipped into 
the benzol in vessel No. 5, and then for some time 
placed in vessel No. 5. From the latter they are thrown 
into a pot provided with a lid, in which the adhering 
benzol drains off and is from time to time removed by 
tilting the pot. The articles are finally wrung by pass- 
ing them between the rolls of a wringer, or, still 
better, the adhering benzol is removed by means of a 
centrifugal worked by hand. The articles are then 
dried in quite hot, closed, drying-chambers, provided 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 23 

with contrivances for the escape and condensation of the 
benzol vapors. 

By this treatment the articles are thoroughly cleansed 
as far as can be done with benzol. It must, however, 
be mentioned that all stains produced by alkalies, acids, 
sugar, milk, etc., resist the action of benzol. The same 
is also the case with so-called sweat-stains, which are 
caused by a change in the color. To remove such 
stains, the separate places must be subjected to a special 
treatment, as will be explained later on. 

The method above described is very practical, but 
possesses the inconvenience of the operator being much 
exposed to the vapors of the benzol. This may, how- 
ever, be avoided by carrying on the work under a well- 
drawing chimney. 

For draining the articles, a tall cylindrical vessel of 
zinc or copper, provided with a perforated false bottom, 
is generally used. The adhering benzol drains off 
through the perforated bottom, and is from time to time 
drawn off through a cock near the true bottom of the 
vessel. The vessel may also be provided with a mov- 
able lid and screw, so that by applying pressure this 
portion of the operation is accelerated. 

Articles of silk are only washed by hand in the above 
described manner, as otherwise they would suffer too 
much. Moreover, if only separate stains are to be re- 
moved, the entire article, with the exception of the 
stained portion, remains intact, and is treated with the 
greatest care. 

For working on a larger scale the above described 
process is not suitable, drums (wash-machines) which 
execute the washing in a closed space being employed. 



24 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

The most simple arrangement of such a wash-machine 
(Fig. 1) is as follows : Upon a cast-iron frame rests a 
cylindrical casing, in the interior of which revolves a 
drum, the periphery of which is formed by a grating of 

Fig. 1. 



hollow iron pipes. In this drum, extending through its 
entire length in a radial plane, is a reticulate moulding 
of five pipes. The lower portion of the iron casing 
serves as a receptacle for the fluid, which can be dis- 
charged through a cock. The casing is closed by a slide. 
The machine is filled about two-thirds full with 
benzol, and after placing the stuffs or garments to be 
cleansed in the drum, the latter, as well as the outer 
casing, is closed. The drum is then slowly and very 
regularly revolved, whereby the articles dip into the 
cleansing fluid and rub against each other and the rods 
of the drum. When the flat grating of the mould 
arrives below, which happens after each revolution, it 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 25 

gathers up the articles, lifts them up, and allows them to 
fall down again. After the articles have thus been 
treated for a half to three-quarters of an hour, they 
are taken from the apparatus by lifting them with 
the assistance of the moulding to the height of the door, 
and allowed to drain off. They are then brought 
into the drying apparatus. For this purpose either a 
centrifugal or a drying-box is used. The centrifugal 
differs from the ordinary construction in that it is 
entirely closed, the discharge-pipe entering a vessel in 
which the benzol hurled out is caught. 

The drying- boxes are generally of copper enclosed on 
all sides. They resemble an ordinary cupboard, except 
that they are provided with an arrangement whereby 
the adhering benzol, which volatilizes in the interior of 
the box, is conducted away and liquefied in a condenser. 

The benzol used for washing becomes by that opera- 
tion charged with dirty particles, w T hich, after the benzol 
has stood for a few minutes, deposit upon the bottom of 
the drum. By opening the cock, and closing it at the 
proper time, the dirtiest portion of the fluid can be re- 
moved, and the contents of the drum purified without 
entirely emptying the latter. 

The waste hydrocarbons — whether benzol or petroleum 
benzin — thus obtained are charged with particles of fat 
and dirt, either in solution or suspension. 

In solution are, as a rule, only particles of fat and 
resin, which generally are neutral and only in very rare 
cases show an acid reaction, the latter being chiefly 
caused by free fatty acids, which frequently are of a 
volatile nature. To fix these free acids and remove 
them from the fluid, the used benzol has to be treated 



26 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

with caustic alkali or an alkaline carbonate, whereby a 
slight development of ammonia frequently takes place, 
which, however, need not to be taken into consideration. 

Such impure benzol never contains substances for the 
removal of which a treatment with strong acids, for in- 
stance, concentrated sulphuric acid, would be required, 
and hence all methods describing such treatment should 
be rejected. The organic substances, whether in solution 
or suspension, contained in these impure fluids imme- 
diately develop, when brought in contact with sulphuric 
acid, sulphurous acid, which is absorbed with avidity by 
the benzol and can only be removed from it by subse- 
quent careful washing with alkalies. If such treatment 
with alkalies is omitted, the sulphurous acid not only 
attacks the color of the stuffs, but also the fibres of cot- 
ton and linen, the latter suffering more than silk and 
wool. The simplest method of purifying the dark, 
and frequently perfectly black, benzol is as follows : 
Mix the fluid as it comes from the washing-machine 
with a dilute soda solution (about 10 quarts of soda 
solution to 1000 quarts of benzol). After separation 
has taken place, draw off the lye and wash the benzol 
with water. The benzol thus treated is subjected to dis- 
tillation by means of a current of steam, and the distillate 
freed from water. 

The apparatus shown in Fig. 2 is especially suitable 
for the distillation of the benzol treated in the above 
manner, it being distinguished by working continu- 
ously. A is a cylindrical vessel of sheet-iron or cast- 
iron with arched top and bottom, the latter being pro- 
vided with a discharge-cock, I. The top is furnished 
with the inlet-pipe h, the float d, the steam-pipe a, and 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 



27 



the steam discharge-pipe b. At h is placed a glass gauge. 
In order to be enabled to observe the influx, the inlet- 
pipe h is, at i, provided with an intermediate glass tube. 
The float d is connected with the jointed lever / in 



Fisr. 2. 




such a manner that in moving up or down it opens or 
closes the cock g. The pipe a for the admission of steam 
is bent upwards in the interior of the vessel and provided 
above its mouth with an arched iron plate, whereby 
the current of steam is uniformly distributed over the 
surface of the fluid. The pipe can be closed by the 
cock y. The pipe b for discharging the steam is, at c, 
provided with a so-called safety-funnel of the ordinary 
construction, which prevents any of the fluid to be dis- 
tilled from being carried to the condenser. At x the 
pipe enters the worms oo. B is the reservoir for the fluid 



28 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

to be distilled. In the cover of this reservoir, which is 
also constructed of iron, is a man-hole, so that it may 
be cleansed when necessary; n is the funnel-pipe for 
filling the reservoir, and m the gauge. On the bottom of 
the reservoir B is the discharge-cock v, which is directly 
connected with the pipe h. C is the cooling vessel with 
the worm oo, the inlet-pipe for water s, and the discharge- 
pipe t. Below the cooling vessel stands a cylindrical 
iron vessel, D, for the reception of the distillate. It is 
hermetically closed by a lid in which is secured the dis- 
charge-pipe for gas, r. In the funnel-like expansion of 
the upper end of r lies a light hollow metal ball which 
serves as a valve. On the bottom of the vessel D is a 
discharge-cock or a bent tube, q, so fixed that it is laterally 
inclined. The worm o enters the vessel below the cover. 
The vessel is further provided with a glass gauge, p. 

The mode of working with this apparatus is as fol- 
lows : The reservoir B being filled with the fluid to be 
distilled, the cock v is opened. Since the vessel A is 
still empty, the float d assumes its lowest position, the 
arrangement being such that then, by the jointed lever/ 
connected with the float, the cock g is opened, and hence 
the fluid can pass from B to A. By the fluid gradually 
rising in A the float is lifted and the cock g gradually 
closed, until, when A is about two-thirds full, it is en- 
tirely closed and the influx interrupted. Now open the 
cock y for the admission of steam, and distillation will 
commence in a few minutes. Now since, with one volume 
of water in the form of steam 8 to 10 times the volume 
of hydrocarbons, according to the degree of their vola- 
tility and height of their boiling-points, are driven off*, 
it is evident that the level in the vessel A will gradually 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 29 

fall and the float d sink down, whereby the cock g is 
opened and a fresh influx in proportion to the decrease 
of the level in A produced. With continuous working 
so much waste-water collects in the vessel A that the 
cock g finally remains entirely closed in consequence of 
the high position of the float ; hence, the discharge-cock I 
has to be occasionally opened. However, with careful 
manipulation it is not necessary to shut off the steam 
nor to interrupt distillation even for a few minutes. 
The distillate which collects in the vessel D consists of 
water and the oily hydrocarbons ; the former is drawn 
off by occasionally inclining the pipe q. In the begin- 
ning of distillation the steam flowing into A forces out 
the air through the worm o to D, and from here through 
the pipe r into the open air, for which purpose r may 
be connected with a chimney. The previously men- 
tioned metal ball in r is, however, absolutely required, 
otherwise a considerable loss of hydrocarbons by vola- 
tilization may be incurred. 

With this apparatus from 2000 to 2500 quarts can be 
conveniently distilled in 12 hours, the quantity depend- 
ing, of course, on the volatility and the boiling-point 
of the hydrocarbon to be purified. 

As regards the drying-boxes, they are heated either 
by hot air or steam, the latter, if possible, superheated. 
The degree of heat required is from 158° to 167° F. 

Dry or chemical cleansing may be employed for — 

a. White silk fabrics and ribbons, and such as con- 
tain other colors, but in which white is nevertheless the 
prevailing color. 

6. Woollen and half-woollen fabrics. 

c. Silk-velvet and all other colored silk stuffs. 



30 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

d. Light-colored woollen and half-woollen fabrics. 

e. Dark-colored articles. 

Less suitable for dry cleansing are half-silk fabrics, as 
well as cotton and linen stuffs. 

Not suitable for dry cleansing are especially white 
linen and cotton pantaloons, vests, sun and rain um- 
brellas, satin shoes, etc. These articles, which, for 
reasons readily understood, cannot be brought into the 
wash machine, require cleansing by hand with the tam- 
pion and brush. 

Colored articles which discolor when treated with the 
tampion must, of course, be separated to prevent other 
stuffs, especially white or those with a w 7 hite ground, 
from becoming smeared. This generally happens with 
stuffs dyed with tar colors which have not been suffi- 
ciently steamed. 

The cleansing of the articles, however, is actually not 
finished by treating them with benzol, it being necessary 
to examine them thoroughly for any stains which may 
still be present. If stains are found, the articles are 
drawn over a marble slab and the stains separately re- 
moved by means of water, soap, and brushes. Stains 
of oil-paint and resins are most obstinate in this respect. 

The most simple method of removing oil-paint stains 
is to rub them with a tampion dipped in clean oil 
of turpentine. Then place a piece of blotting-paper 
over and under the stain and pass a hot flat-iron over 
it. Finally wash the article in warm soap water. 

Resin stains are treated in the same manner as oil- 
paint stains. 

To remove the adhering benzol odor, the articles are 
finally hung up in an airy room, and are then brought 
into the ironing-room to be carefully ironed. 



DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANSING. 



31 



Very woolly articles which have become flat and com- 
pressed by ironing are finally drawn over the apparatus 
shown in Fig. 3. This is, so to say, a gigantic smooth- 
Fig. 3. 




ing-iron covered on top with a perforated copper plate 
upon which lies a stout felt cloth. On opening the 
cock B for the admission of steam, a dense volume of 
steam immediately rises over the entire surface of the 
smoothing-iron, which is allowed to act upon the back 
of the stuffs, whereby the surface is raised and appears 
as woolly as before. 

It is scarcely necessary to state that in working with 
benzol, or petroleum benzin, and even with oil of tur- 
pentine, which, notwithstanding their comparatively 



32 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

high boiling-points, volatilize at the ordinary tempera- 
ture, the greatest care has to be observed. No open light 
or a stove should be allowed in the working-room, and 
special care must be taken to provide for thorough ven- 
tilation, there being nothing which causes explosions so 
readily as a mixture in certain proportions of the above- 
mentioned hydrocarbons with air. 



II. 

THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 

Generally speaking, a distinction is made between 
the removal of stains from white or not dyed stuffs, and 
from colored fabrics. 

As regards the stains themselves, they are distinguished 
according to their condition and the nature of their for- 
mation. They may be broadly divided into two classes, 
viz : stains of a fatty and of a non-fatty nature. Further- 
more, we have to consider stains which destroy the color 
of the fabric, and those which exert no effect upon it. 
In the former case the stain may be readily removed, but 
sometimes it will be impossible to restore the damaged 
color. 

The removal of stains from white goods is accom- 
plished with comparative ease, as the question of color 
does not come into consideration, and quite energetic 
means may be resorted to. It may be here added that 
in this case soap and water are the most radical means 
for cleansing. In difficult cases chlorine, sulphurous 
acid, and similar agents are employed. 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 33 

Soap is also an excellent agent for removing stains 
from colored fabrics, provided the color is fast. For 
figured and trimmed articles it is, however, best not to 
use it, or at least very sparingly. 

As agents for the removal of stains several chemicals 
are used, the principal ones of which w T ill be mentioned 
and described below. 

Besides oil of turpentine, petroleum benzine, and 
benzol, the properties of which have been previously 
described, there are used to a greater or less extent : 
Ether, chloroform, alcohol, aqua ammonice (ivater of 
ammonia), glycerin, borax, sulphite and hyposulphite of 
sodium, pyrophosphate of sodium, magnesia, stannous 
chloride, chloride of lime, hypochlorites, chlorine-woier, 
acetic, citric, hydrochloric, oxalic, and tartaric acids, ox- 
gall, etc. 

It is absolutely necessary that the chemicals used 
should be chemically pure, since, if they are contam- 
inated by another body, it may happen that in removing 
an old stain a new 7 one may be produced. 

Ether. Pure ether is a colorless, very limpid fluid, 
of a peculiar, penetrating odor, and at first a very 
pungent taste ; the after-taste is cooling, and should not 
be bitter. Ether is extraordinarily volatile, boils at 
from 93° to 95° F., and burns with a bright yellow 
flame, yielding water and carbonic acid. Its vapor 
mixed with a large quantity of air, if ignited, explodes 
with great violence. In consequence of this property 
and the great density of its vapor, extreme care should be 
exercised in handling ether or manipulating w r ith it in the 
vicinity of a flame. The latter should never be done if 
it can possibly be avoided, nor should the ether be 
3 



34 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

allowed to stand in a warm room. Ether is miscible in 
all proportions with spirit of wine, but not with water, 
which dissolves one-tenth its volume. The presence of 
water and alcohol is detected by mixing the ether with an 
equal bulk of carbon disulphide, which should result in 
a perfectly clear liquid ; a piece of potassium kept in the 
ether for 24 hours becomes coated with a yellowish 
film, and imparts a yellowish color to the liquid if 
alcohol be present. Aniline-violet is insoluble in absolute 
ether, but in the presence of 1 per cent, of alcohol colors 
the liquid distinctly. 

Ether is an excellent solvent for fats and resins. 

Chloroform. This is less dangerous than ether. It 
is a limpid, colorless, diffusive liquid, not inflammable, 
of an agreeable ethereal odor, a hot saccharine taste, 
and a neutral reaction. In a perfectly pure state it is 
difficult to keep, and hence some alcohol is added, so that 
its specific gravity varies between 1.488 and 1.492, and 
its boiling-point is increased to 149° F. When brought 
upon the skin chloroform evaporates rapidly, with the 
production of a cold sensation. 

When chloroform is shaken in a perfectly clean glass- 
stoppered vial with an equal bulk of sulphuric acid, no 
color should be imparted to either liquid after remaining 
in contact for 24 hours. Should a coloration appear, 
the chloroform is not pure. If 5 centimeters of purified 
chloroform be thoroughly agitated with 10 cubic centi- 
meters of distilled water, the latter, when separated, 
should not affect blue litmus-paper (absence of acids), 
nor test-solution of nitrate of silver (chloride), nor test- 
solution of iodide of potassium (free chlorine). 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 35 

Chloroform is an excellent solvent for fats and fat 
oils, wax, resins, caoutchouc, etc. 

Alcohol and spirits of wine are also used for the re- 
moval of various stains. Both are colorless, very mobile, 
and possess a peculiar odor and very pungent taste. When 
exposed to the air in a thin layer, they evaporate very 
rapidly without leaving a residue. They are very in- 
flammable and burn with a non-luminous blue flame. 

The only difference between alcohol and spirits of 
wine is that the latter contains more w r ater than the 
former. Alcohol should be nearly anhydrous, and con- 
tain not more than 2 per cent, of water. It is miscible 
with water, ether, and chloroform, and gives clear mix- 
tures with the majority of volatile oils. 

Alcohol dissolves either entirely or partially fat oils, 
fats, and many resins. It is also a solvent for numerous 
other solid organic and inorganic combinations (salts, 
alkaloids, etc.). 

Aqua ammonice (water of ammonia). This is one of 
the most important agents for the removal of stains. It 
forms a colorless fluid, with a strong, penetrating odor 
and a pungent, acrid taste. When highly concentrated 
it reddens the skin and produces blisters. It imparts a 
brown color to turmeric-paper, a blue color to red litmus- 
paper, and a green color to the juice of violet flowers. 

The specific gravity of aqua ammonise decreases with 
an increasing content of ammonia. Two varieties are 
generally distinguished in commerce : Water of am- 
monia, which is an aqueous solution of ammonia, having 
the specific gravity 0.960 at 57.2° F. and containing 
10 per cent, by weight of the gas. Stronger water of 



36 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

ammonia has the specific gravity 0.891 , and contains 28 
per cent, by weight of the gas. 

Water of ammonia should evaporate at the tempera- 
ture of boiling water without leaving any residue (salts). 
On being neutralized with an acid, no empyreumatic 
odor should be observed. It should not yield a precipi- 
tate with lime-water (carbonate), with oxalate of am- 
monium (calcium), or, either before or after neutralizing 
by means of nitric acid, with sulphuretted hydrogen. 

In using water of ammonia for the removal of stains, 
it must be ascertained whether any of the colors are 
changed by it. 

Glycerin is a syrupy liquid having the specific gravity 
1.28 at 59° F. It is transparent, colorless, inodorous, 
very sweet, and somewhat warm to the taste, oily to the 
touch, without action upon litmus, and soluble in all 
proportions in water and alcohol ; also in spirit of ether, 
'but not in ether, chloroform, benzol, fixed oils, or vola- 
tile oils. 

Glycerin is a solvent for alkalies, alkaloids, dye-stuffs, 
and other bodies. It also serves for finishing fine 
fabrics, etc. 

Borax. Borax forms large, colorless, monoclinic 
prisms, which are transparent, inodorous, have a mild, 
sweetish, cooling, and afterwards alkaline taste, and in 
dry air effloresce superficially and become opaque. It 
is soluble in 12 to 15 parts of cold, and in 2 parts of 
boiling water, and in 4 to 5 parts of glycerin, but in- 
soluble in alcohol. The aqueous solution has a slightly 
alkaline taste, colors red litmus-paper blue, and the juice 
of violet flowers green. 

Borax is very frequently adulterated with Glauber's 



THE ART OP^ REMOVING STAINS. 37 

salt (sodium sulphate), rock-salt (sodium chloride), and 
potassium chloride. If, in a dilute and heated solution 
strongly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, a heavy pre- 
cipitate is formed by barium chloride solution, Glauber's 
salt may be supposed to be present. An admixture of 
rock-salt is recognized by the white flakes which are 
formed in an aqueous solution acidulated with nitric 
acid by the addition of nitrate of silver. Potassium 
chloride is recognized in the solution by the formation 
of a white crystalline precipitate on adding a large 
quantity of tartaric acid. The presence of carbonate of 
soda is shown by the effervescence of the solution on 
adding hydrochloric acid. 

Borax is used for fixing mineral dye-stuffs, as an ad- 
dition to starch, and as a substitute for alkalies (potash, 
soda). 

Hyposulphite of sodium occurs in commerce in large, 
transparent, colorless, monoclinic prisms or plates, which 
have the specific gravity 1.74, are neutral or faintly 
alkaline, are inodorous, and have a cooling, bitter, 
slightly alkaline, and sulphurous taste. It is permanent 
in the air, soluble at a medium temperature in less than 
an equal quantity of water, but insoluble in spirits of 
wine. By adding an acid to the aqueous solution 
gaseous sulphurous acid escapes, while sulphur separates 
in white flakes. 

It is used as a bleaching agent, and also as a dechlor- 
izing agent for fabrics bleached with chlorine. 

Stannous chloride, or tin salt, occurs in commerce in a 
solid form as well as in solution. In a solid form it 
forms white, columnar crystals which are readily soluble 
in water and have an acrid, metallic taste. It being 



38 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

poisonous when taken internally, care should be used 
in handling it. The solution of tin-salt in water always 
shows a more or less milky turbidity. 

Chloride of lime is a white or whitish powder, or in 
friable lumps, dry or but slightly damp, with a feeble 
odor of chlorine, and a disagreeable bitter and saline 
taste. Under certain circumstances it may undergo de- 
composition on keeping, either with the evolution of 
oxygen or by conversion into a mixture of chloride and 
chlorate of calcium. On exposure to the air it absorbs 
and combines with carbonic acid and becomes moist. 
It has an alkaline reaction, but finally bleaches test- 
paper. When rubbed with water it is almost entirely 
dissolved, the lime remaining behind. This forms the 
chloride of lime solution which serves as a basis for the 
bleaching and decolorizing process, and for the prepara- 
tion of the various bleaching-fluids. 

Thus the well-known eau de Javelle is obtained by 
mixing a filtered solution of 1 part of chloride of lime 
in 12 parts water with a solution of potassium carbonate 
(potash) (1 part potash in 4 parts water). The mixture 
is allowed to settle and is filtered. 

Chloride of lime solution in the same manner decom- 
posed by alum or aluminium sulphate gives Wilson's 
bleaching -fluid ; and by sulphate of magnesium, Ram- 
sey's or Grouvelle's bleaching-fluid. These bleaching- 
fluids are colorless, or of a faintly yellowish color. 
They are extensively used for bleaching textile fibres, 
fabrics, and wash-clothes, and serve also for removing 
fruit and red-wine stains from the latter. 

A too vigorous action of the chlorine upon the textile 
fibre is counteracted by subsequent immersion of the 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAIXS. 39 

fabric in solution of sodium hyposulphite or aqua am- 
monia?. 

Chlorine-water. This is less frequently used than 
bleach ing-fluid. It forms a clear, greenish-yellow 
liquid, possessing the suffocating odor and acrid, irri- 
tating taste of chlorine. It evaporates without leaving 
any residue, but separates crystals of chlorine hydrate 
when cooled to the freezing-point of water. 

Acetic acid occurs in commerce in various degrees of 
purity and strength. For our purposes chemically pure 
acid can only be taken into consideration, and it should 
especially be free from empyreumatic substances. The 
degree of acidity is of minor consideration, since too 
strong an acid can be readily reduced by the addition 
of water. 

Acetic acid is a colorless fluid of a peculiar pungent 
taste, and when applied to the human skin causes red- 
ness and swelling, followed by paleness of the part. 
Prolonged application is followed by vesication and des- 
quamation of the cuticle. At the ordinary temperature 
acetic acid evaporates perceptibly ; it boils at 244.4° F. 
Acetic acid neutralized with pure carbonate of soda and 
diluted with water should not be changed by potassium 
permanganate solution. 

Tartaric acid crystallizes in colorless, oblique, rhombic 
prisms * or tables, which are inodorous and have a 
strongly acid and disagreeable taste. They have the 
specific gravity 1.7G4, dissolve at 62.6° F. in 0.6 part 
of water, 2 parts of 85 per cent, alcohol, 3.6 parts of 
absolute alcohol, 23 parts of ether, and 250 parts of 
absolute ether; they are more soluble in the same 
liquids at the boiling temperature, and are likewise 



40 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

soluble in methylic alcohol and in glycerin, but in- 
soluble in chloroform and benzine. It is a complete 
substitute for the more expensive — 

Citric acid, with which it is frequently mixed, and in 
many cases even sold as such. Hence, whenever citric 
acid is prescribed tartaric acid may be substituted for it. 

Oxalic acid forms flat, oblique, rhombic prisms, which 
are colorless, transparent, not deliquescent, inodorous, of 
a strongly acid taste and reaction, and soluble in about 
8 parts of water at ordinary temperature, and in nearly 
all proportions of boiling water. They dissolve in 2J 
parts of cold and 1.8 parts of boiling strong alcohol, 
and are but slightly soluble in ether. Oxalic acid is very 
poisonous. It is rather cheap, and as in some cases it 
serves as a complete substitute for tartaric and citric 
acids, it is very frequently used. 

Acid oxalate, or binoxalate, of potassium, popularly 
called salt of sorrel, is a combination of oxalic acid 
with potassium carbonate. It occurs in commerce in 
large colorless crystals which dissolve with difficulty in 
water. Oxalic acid as well as acid oxalate of potassium 
is much used for removing stains. 

Hydrochloric acid. This well-known acid should be 
entirely free from iron, and, hence, should not be colored 
red by sulphocyanide of potassium. 

Ox-gall should never be used as furnished by abattoirs. 
In that state it forms a green, or brownish-green, viscid, 
transparent, or more frequently translucent fluid of a 
peculiar, disagreeable odor. It is best first to cleanse 
it, which is done by mixing it in a bottle with an equal 
part by weight of 90 per cent, alcohol. The mixture 
is occasionally agitated, then set aside, filtered, and 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 41 

finally evaporated to a syrupy consistency, or to com- 
plete dryness. In this state ox-gall forms a clear solu- 
tion in water and in 90 per cent, alcohol. 

The tools used for removing stains consist of tampions, 
sponges, large and small brushes, etc. The principal 
requisites, however, are experience, a light hand, and 
skill. 

We now pass to the actual practical part, and com- 
mence with the description of the removal of 

Dust-stains. The best means for this purpose 
are thorough beating and brushing. Old, dried-in 
stains in fabrics of wool, silk, satin, etc., are brushed 
over with a little yolk of egg mixed with alcohol, which 
is allowed to dry and then scraped off. Any adhering 
yolk of egg is finally removed by means of a clean linen 
rag and warm water. 

Stains of unknown derivation in plain or dyed cotton 
goods are first treated with a very weak, lukewarm 
solution of soap, to each quart of which a teaspoonful of 
water of ammonia has been added. Washing is effected 
with a sponge or tampion dipped into the fluid. The 
fabric is finally washed in water. 

It may here be remarked that before attempting the 
removal of stains, an experiment should in all cases be 
made on a portion of the fabric where, if a change in the 
color should take place, it would be least noticed. 

For cleaning woollen goods, especially when colored, 
prepare a mixture of 20 parts ox-gall, 40 parts borax, 
200 parts water of ammonia, and 500 parts alcohol. 
When solution is complete, add 30 parts glycerin and 
the yolk of 2 eggs. 

Wash the fabric in the boiling solution, using a wooden 



42 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

spoon for handling it. Then rinse it in clean warm 
water and dry it in the air, but not in the sun. 

Silk, satin, etc., are treated with a solution of 40 parts 
borax, and 10 parts soap in 70 parts dilute alcohol, and 
30 parts ether. Add to the solution the yolks of 2 
eggs and 10 parts carbonate of magnesia. Thoroughly 
shake the mixture before use and apply it to the stains. 
Then wash in lukewarm water, rinse in cold water, and 
dry at a moderate heat. Smooth with a moderately 
warm iron. Any adhering particles of magnesia are 
removed with a brush. 

Grease-stains, fresh as well as old, are best removed 
by dry or chemical cleansing. However, when this is 
not possible, wet the fabric, with the exception of silk, 
and after placing several thicknesses of blotting-paper 
under the stained portions, rub with a tampion and 
a sponge dipped in benzol or oil of turpentine. When 
the stain has disappeared from the surface, place a piece 
of blotting-paper upon it and pass a hot flat-iron several 
times over it. The entire fabric is finally washed in 
warm soap-water, to which water of ammonia has been 
added, or, still better, in a warm decoction of soaproot 
or of quillaia-bark. 

For the same purpose the so-called benzol-magnesia, 
first proposed by Boettger, may be highly recommended. 
It possesses the advantage that it can be used every- 
where without causing the disagreeable circles, rings, etc., 
which, with the use of benzol, can only be prevented by 
making a second ring with water, so that the benzol 
cannot spread out any further. 

Benzol-magnesia is prepared by mixing calcined mag- 
nesia with sufficient benzol to form a soft, friable mass. 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 43 

In this state it is put in a wide-mouthed glass bottle 
well stoppered, and kept for use. Its employment is 
very simple. It is spread quite thickly over the stains 
and rubbed well to and fro with the tip of the finger. 
The small lumps of earthy matter thus formed are 
brushed off, and more benzol-magnesia is laid on and 
left until the benzol has evaporated entirely, when the 
adhering particles of magnesia are brushed off. Ma- 
terials that will bear washing are then cleansed with 
water ; on silks, alcohol or benzol should be used instead. 
The process may be applied to textile fabrics of every 
description, except those containing very much wool, to 
which the magnesia adheres very tenaciously. It may 
also be used for stains, old or new, on all sorts of fancy 
woods, ivory, parchment, etc., without risk of injury. 
Ordinary writing-ink is not affected by it, but letter- 
press quickly dissolves, owing to the absorption of the 
fatty matter in the ink. 

Gelatinized benzol may be used in the same manner, it 
being in many cases preferable to benzol-magnesia. It 
is prepared by dissolving in a quart bottle 120 parts of 
soap in 180 parts of hot water and adding 30 parts of 
water of ammonia. Then add sufficient water to fill 
the bottle three-quarters full, next sufficient benzol to fill 
it entirely, and shake. 

Of this solution, mix 1 teaspoonful in a half-pint 
bottle with some benzol, and, after mixing, fill the bottle 
w r ith benzol, shaking constantly. With this gelatine 
stains of all sorts can be removed without risk of injury 
to even the most delicate colors. However, if, on 
account of the employment of benzol, the formation of 
circles, rings, etc., is feared, scatter upon the place, 



44 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

while still wet, plaster of Paris or lycopodium, which 
after drying is brushed off. 

In many cases, especially when the grease-stains are 
fresh, the damage may be remedied by the use of water 
of ammonia or weak soda solution, and subsequent 
washing. From silk fabrics grease-stains are removed 
with benzol-magnesia or gelatinized benzol ; ether-mag- 
nesia, which is prepared in a similar manner as benzol- 
magnesia, being, however, preferable for the purpose. 

Ether-magnesia is prepared by mixing calcined mag- 
nesia with sufficient ether to form a thin paste, w r hich is 
spread over the stains. After the evaporation of the 
ether the magnesia spot is brushed off and finally rubbed 
with a piece of soft white bread. 

Oil-paint and varnish-stains are first treated with 
pure oil of turpentine, which experience has proved 
most suitable for the purpose, it being surpassed only 
by chloroform. The latter is, moreover, an excellent 
solvent for old stains, so that their removal with benzol- 
magnesia is readily effected. 

Stains of resin, tar, or ivagon-grease. These and 
similar stains are removed from white goods by moisten- 
ing the fabric, rubbing the stain with a sponge dipped 
in oil of turpentine, and, after placing blotting-paper 
beneath and on top of the grease-spot, several times 
passing a hot iron over it. The entire fabric is finally 
washed in warm soap-water. Colored cotton or woollen 
fabrics are moistened, the stains thoroughly soaped, 
and, after allowing the soap to act for a few minutes, 
w 7 ashed alternately wdth oil of turpentine and water. 

If the stains are not removed by this operation, make 
a mixture of yolk of egg and oil of turpentine, spread 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 45 

it over the stain, allow it to dry, then scrape it off, and 
finally wash thoroughly in hot water. 

As a final means, the fabric may be washed in water 
to which some hydrochloric acid has been added, and 
thoroughly rinsed in soft water. 

Articles of silk, satin, etc., are moistened, and the 
stains rubbed with a sponge dipped in a mixture of 
ether and chloroform. When the stain has disappeared 
scatter bole (pipe-clay) upon the place, cover with 
blotting-paper, and pass a hot iron several times over it. 

If the stain has not disappeared, mix yolk of egg 
with chloroform, spread the mixture over the stain, 
allow it to dry, then scrape off, and treat as previously 
described. 

Stearin and icax-stains are carefully removed as 
much as possible with a knife. Then place a wet linen 
rag beneath and blotting-paper on top of the stain and 
pass a warm flat-iron over it. 

If the stain is inaccessible with the flat-iron, treat it 
with chloroform, which will surely remove it. 

Fruit-stains disappear from linen goods (table-cloths, 
napkins, handkerchiefs, etc.) by rinsing in eau de 
Javelle or another bleaching-fluid, or in weak solution 
of chloride of lime, which must, however, be perfectly 
clear, and to which some vinegar may be added. When 
the fabric is clean, it is thoroughly rinsed in running 
water and best drawn through a solution of sodium 
hyposulphite or of soda. 

White cotton goods may be treated in a similar man- 
ner. Fruit-stains frequently disappear by simply wash- 
ing in soap-water to which some borax or water of 
ammonia has been added. 



46 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Woollen goods are either immersed in a weak solution 
of sulphurous acid, or subjected to the action of a solution 
of hyposulphite of soda for about one hour, and then 
brought into a solution of tartaric acid, where they re- 
main until the stain has disappeared. They are finally 
washed in water to which some bicarbonate of soda has 
been added. 

For colored goods the above-mentioned methods can- 
not be used, it being first necessary to make an experi- 
ment to see whether the colors will stand chlorine or 
sulphurous acid, i. e., whether they are likely to be 
changed or perhaps entirely destroyed by the action of 
these agents. If the colors will stand soap, the stains 
will disappear by washing in tepid soap solution, or in 
a decoction of soap-root or quillaia bark, otherwise they 
will have to be covered by dyeing. 

Stains of red wine, cherries, whortleberries, etc., in white 
goods are treated in the same manner as fruit-stains. 

Stains of wine may be quickly and easily removed 
from linen by dipping the stained parts into boiling 
milk, the milk to be kept boiling until the stain dis- 
appears. 

Milk- and coffee-stains. Apply a mixture of yolk of 
egg and glycerin, then wash in warm water, and, while 
still moist, iron the fabrics upon the wrong side with a 
flat-iron which should not be too hot. 

As a rule, milk- and coffee-stains are difficult to re- 
move, especially from light- colored and finely finished 
goods. From woollen and mixed fabrics they are taken 
out by moistening them with a mixture of 1 part gly- 
cerin, 9 parts water, and J part water of ammonia. 
This mixture is applied to the goods by means of a 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 47 

brush and allowed to remain for 12 hours, occasionally 
renewing the moistening. After this the stained pieces 
are pressed between cloth and then rubbed with a clean 
rag. Drying, and if possible a little steaming, are gene- 
rally sufficient to thoroughly remove the stains. 

Stains on silk garments which are dyed with delicate 
colors, or finely finished, are more difficult to remove. 
In this case 5 parts of glycerin are mixed with 5 parts 
of water, and J part of water of ammonia added. Before 
using this mixture it should be tried on some part of 
the garments where it will not be noticed, in order to 
see if the mixture will change the color. If such is 
the case, no ammonia should be added. If, on the 
contrary, no change takes place, or if, after drying, the 
original color is restored, the above mixture is applied 
with a soft brush, allowing it to remain on the stains 
for 6 to 8 hours, and is then rubbed with a clean cloth. 
The remaining dry substance is then carefully taken 
oif by means of a knife. The damaged places are now 
brushed over with clean w r ater, pressed between cloths, 
and dried. If the stain is not then removed, rubbing 
with dry bread will cause it to disappear. To restore the 
finish, a thin solution of gum arabic — in many cases 
beer is preferred — is brushed on, then dried, and care- 
fully ironed. By the careful manipulation above men- 
tioned stains will be successfully removed. 

Soup-stains, as well as smaller grease-stains in general, 
are removed by washing in hot water to which some 
soda, or borax, or water of ammonia has been added. 

Stains on cotton goods need only be rubbed with rec- 
tified oil of turpentine or benzol. The surplus of the 
solvent is then removed with blotting-paper and the 



48 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

fabric washed in clean soap- water, whereby the stains 
will be successfully removed. 

Silk fabrics are treated in the same manner, ether or 
chloroform being, however, preferred to benzol. 

Stains of beer, wine, punch, sugar, gelatine, glue, etc. 
Comparatively speaking, these stains are very readily 
removed, simple washing in clean, tepid soap-water 
being in most cases sufficient, If necessary, the fabric 
may be washed in eau de Javelle or another bleaching- 
fluid, or in perfectly clear solution of chloride of lime 
to which some vinegar has been added. It is finally 
thoroughly rinsed in water, or, still better, in a solution 
of hyposulphite of soda. 

Grass-stains are removed from linen goods by wash- 
ing in boiling water or by treating with a bleach ing- 
fluid. 

Another plan is to wash the stained places in clean, 
cold soft water, without soap, before the garment is 
otherwise wet. 

Grass-stains on cotton, woollen, or silk fabrics are re- 
moved by moistening them with chloride of tin and im- 
mediately washing in a large quantity of water. 

Stains from green nuts, as well as so-called tannin-stains, 
are repeatedly washed with water and alcohol, then 
treated with dilute chlorine-water, pure, perfectly clear 
chloride of lime solution acidulated with vinegar, or one 
of the various bleach ing-fluids, and finally washed in 
much water. 

Acid stains, when fresh, disappear by moistening 
them with water of ammonia or soda solution, the 
original color being in almost all cases restored by the 
subsequent application of chloroform. 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 49 

Old stains resist all reagents and have to be re-dyed. 

Nitric acid staiyis. These stains are generally of a 
yellow color, and, when fresh, can be removed from 
brown or black woollen garments by moistening them 
for a while with concentrated solution of permanganate 
of potash and rinsing with water. Old stains are brushed 
over with nitrate of silver solution, whereby they acquire 
a black color. 

Stains of wine-vinegar, sour wine, etc., are removed by 
neutralizing the acid w T ith water of ammonia, soda, or a 
similar agent. 

Lye- and lime-stains disappear from linen fabrics by 
washing. From cotton, woollen, and silk goods the 
stains are removed by carefully applying to them, drop 
by drop, any acid (with the exception of sulphuric and 
tartaric acids), until they have disappeared, and then 
thoroughly washing. Hydrochloric acid free from iron 
is best suited for the purpose. 

Urine-stains are removed by washing with alcohol or 
dilute nitric acid solution and freshening up the place 
where the stain has been with chloroform. 

Ink- and iron-mould stains. As regards ink-stains, a 
distinction has to be made between those caused by 
aniline ink and those by nut-gall ink. 

In the first case the stains — provided they are not on 
silk fabrics — can generally be removed by washing in 
soap-water, in a bleaching fluid, or in spirit of wine 
acidulated with vinegar. Tartaric acid — the more con- 
centrated the older the spots are — may also be used for 
white goods. To stains on colored cottons and woollens, 
and on silks, cautiously apply dilute tartaric acid. 

The removal of stains due to nut-gall ink is more 
4 



50 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

difficult. If not too old, stains on linen goods sometimes 
yield by laying the fabric in a bleaching fluid or chloride 
of lime solution, allowing it to remain for some time. 

These stains also frequently disappear by treating 
them with a concentrated solution of oxalic, tartaric, or 
hydrochloric acid. 

Many housewives have a peculiar method of treat- 
ing ink and iron-mould stains with oxalic acid, They 
scatter upon the moistened stain pulverized oxalic acid 
and rub it into the tissue with the bright handle of a 
key or a piece of bright iron; or they stretch the stained 
portion of the fabric over a heated bright tin pot or tin 
plate and rub in the powdered oxalic acid, without 
knowing that the reducing action loosens the coherence 
of the fibre with the ferrous oxide and makes the latter 
more accessible to the dissolving action of the oxalic 
acid* The action is the more effective the more inti- 
mately the stain is brought in contact with the heated 
metal. 

To produce the best effect it is only necessary to 
scatter line tin dust or tin shavings upon the stain 
previously moistened with hot oxalic acid solution. The 
stain disappears as if by magic. 

Another method is as follows : Mix equal parts of 
cream of tartar and citric acid, powdered fine. This 
forms the salt of lemons as sold by druggists. Procure 
a hot dinner-plate, lay the part stained on the plate, and 
moisten with hot water ; next rub in the above men- 
tioned powder with the bowl of a spoon until the stain 
disappears ; then rinse in clean water and dry. 

The stain may also be washed in a solution of yellow 
prussiate of potash to which sulphuric acid has been 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 51 

added, and the blue spot thereby formed removed by 
rinsing in potash solution. If, after this, a yellow stain 
should remain, it is removed with sulphuric acid. 

Beschorner recommends the following process : Place 
the linen fabric in a mixture of 15 parts distilled water 
and 2 parts hydrochloric acid, allow it to remain in the 
mixture for half an hour, then wash thoroughly in clean 
water, and pour ammonium sulphide over the still moist 
stain ; the latter operation should be conducted in the 
open air. After ten minutes, when the iron has been 
converted into ferrous sulphide, rinse the linen in clean 
water, pour a mixture of 1 part hydrochloric acid and 
15 parts distilled water over it, and again rinse in clean 
water. 

Fresh ink-stains on cotton or w r oollen goods are gen- 
erally removed by allowing a drop of grease from a 
burning tallow candle to fall upon the stain, and wash- 
ing in a concentrated solution of pyrophosphate of soda. 
The older the stain the more thoroughly it has to be 
washed. 

For stains on fabrics dyed with fast colors, chloride 
of lime or tartaric acid may be used. 

Old ink-stains are washed in dilute chloride of tin 
solution, and the fabric thoroughly rinsed in soft 
water. 

From silk fabrics ink-stains, as a rule, cannot be 
removed, the only remedy being to re-dye the stained 
portions. 

If the colors of the fabric permit, the stain may be 
moistened with strong vinegar, covered for some time 
with beechwood ash, and finally washed in strong soap- 
water. 



52 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Blood-stains may be entirely obliterated from almost 
any substance by laying a thick coating of common 
starch over the place. The starch is to be mixed as for 
laundry use, and laid on quite wet. 

The free and early application of a weak solution of 
soda or potash, and the subsequent application of alum 
solution, are also recommended. 

The following table, which is taken from the " Mus- 
ter Zeitung," gives at a glance the best means of clean- 
ing all kinds of fabrics from any stain whatever. 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 



53 






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54 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

The preceding table and the receipts previously given, 
together with the directions which follow, afford a ready 
means of determining the proper method of procedure. 
Taking out grease and other spots from clothes is an 
application of chemistry which has a practical interest 
for everybody. It demands a certain acquaintance with 
solvents and reagents, even though the laws of chemical 
affinity on which their action depends may not be under- 
stood. The general principle is the applying to the spot 
of a substance which has a stronger affinity for the matter 
composing it than this has for cloth, and which will 
render it soluble in some liquid so that it can be washed 
out. At the same time it must be something that will 
not injure the texture of the fabric or change its color. 

The following directions, taken from the " Moniteur 
de la Teinture," deal especially with the garment 
dyer : — 

Steam has the property of softening fatty matters and 
thus facilitating their removal by reagents. 

Sulphuric acid may be employed in certain cases, espe- 
cially to brighten and raise greens, reds, and yellows, but 
it must be diluted with at least 100 times its weight of 
water or more, according to the delicacy of the shades. 

Hydrochloric acid is used with success for removing 
spots of ink and iron-mould upon a great number of 
colors which it does not sensibly affect. 

Sulphurous acid is only used for bleaching undyed 
goods, straw hats, etc., and for removing fruit-stains 
upon white woollen and silk fabrics. The fumes of 
burning sulphur are also employed for this purpose, but 
the liquid acid (or a solution of the bisulphite — not 
bisulphate — of soda or magnesia) is safer. 



THE ART OF REMOVING STAINS. 55 

Oxalic acid serves for removing spots of ink and iron, 
and the residues of mud-spots which do not yield to 
other cleansing agents. It may also be employed for 
destroying the stains of fruit and astringent juices, and 
stains of urine which have long been upon any tissue. 
Xevertheless it is best confined to undyed goods, as it 
attacks not only fugitive colors, but also certain of the 
lighter fast colors. The best method of applying it is 
to dissolve it in cold or lukewarm water, and to let a 
little of the solution remain upon the spot before rub- 
bing it with the hands. 

Citric acid serves to revive and raise certain colors, 
especially greens and yellows ; it destroys the effect of 
alkalies or any bluish or crimson spots which appear 
upon scarlets. In its stead acetic acid may be employed. 

TTater of ammonia is the most energetic and useful 
agent employed for cleaning tissues and silk hats, and 
for quickly neutralizing the effects of acids. In the 
latter case it is often sufficient to expose the goods to 
the fumes of this alkali in order to remove such spots 
entirely. Ammonia gives a violet cast to all shades pro- 
duced with cochineal, lac, the redwoods, or logwood, and 
all colors topped with cochineal. It does not deteriorate 
silks, but at elevated temperatures it perceptibly attacks 
woollens. It serves to restore the black upon silks 
damaged by damp. 

Carbonate of soda (soda crystals) serves equally in 
most of the cases where ammonia is employed. It is 
good for hats affected by sweat. Soda and .potash only 
serve for white goods, of linen, hemp, or cotton, because 
these alkalies attack colors and injure the tenacity and 
suppleness of woollens and silks. For the same reason 



56 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

white soap only is to be recommended for cleaning white 
woollen tissues. 

Mottled soaps serve for cleaning heavy stuffs of woollen 
or cotton, such as quilts. For such articles as do not 
require great suppleness or softness of feel, the action of 
the soap may be enhanced by the addition of a small 
quantity of potash. 

Soft potash soaps may be usefully employed in solu- 
tion together with gum arabic or other mucilaginous 
matters, for cleaning dyed goods and especially self-col- 
ored silks. This composition is preferable to white or 
marbled soaps, as it removes the spots better and attacks 
the colors much less. 

Ox-gall has the property of dissolving the majority 
of fatty bodies without injuring either the color or the 
fibre. It may be used preferably to soap for cleansing 
woollens ; but it should not be employed for cleansing 
stuffs of light and delicate colors which it may spoil by 
imparting to them a greenish-yellow or even a deep-green 
tint. It is also mixed with other matters such as oil of 
turpentine, alcohol, honey, yolk of egg, fuller's earth, 
etc., and in this state is used for cleaning silk. 

Yolk of egg possesses nearly the same properties as 
ox-gall, but is much more expensive. It must be used 
as quickly as possible, for it loses its efficacy with keep- 
ing. It is sometimes mixed with an equal bulk of oil 
of turpentine. 



FINE WASHING. 57 



III. 

FINE WASHING. 

Under this head the most approved and best methods 
of cheaply cleaning in a professional manner the dif- 
ferent kinds of garments, etc., will be given. 

For washing ivhite woollen goods, it is best to use 
boiling-hot soapsuds compounded with borax, the arti- 
cles acquiring by this treatment a looseness and dazzling 
whiteness which they frequently do not possess when 
new. 

For the removal of greasy dirt, sweat, etc., borax is 
of so little value that its application would be mere 
waste. Soap-lye alone is better, but the preference must 
be given to soap-lye along with ammonia. This mix- 
ture works wonders by quickly dissolving dirt from 
particular parts of underclothing which are hard to 
cleanse. It raises and revives even bright colors, and 
is altogether excellent. 

In washing good woollens the white should be sepa- 
rated from the colored. For the latter there should be 
prepared a lye of about 3 quarts of soft water and 2 ozs. 
of best soft-soap, the quantities being of course modified 
according to judgment and the dirtiness of the articles. 
The soap is dissolved over the fire, and the lye, properly 
stirred, is divided between two vessels, to one of which is 
added a teaspoonful of ammonia for each quart of lye. 
The woollens having to be entered at a heat which the 
hand cannot bear, the fabrics must, consequently be 



58 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

turned and pressed with smooth wooden stirrers. They 
are then pressed out as far as possible and transferred 
to the second lye containing no ammonia, and which by 
this time has become so cool that the articles can be 
pressed by hand, but no twisting or wringing must 
take place. They are then pressed between three or four 
soft dry towels, till the latter no longer become wet. 
The articles are then pulled into proper shape, under- 
clothing, for instance, being pulled somewhat in width, 
this being especially required for the sleeves, which have 
a tendency to become long and narrow. 

For white woollen goods there is added, instead of 
ammonia, a teaspoonful of powdered borax to each quart 
of soap-lye, and the operation is otherwise conducted 
exactly as above described. If the second lye is too 
soapy, it may be diluted with a little hot water. 

It is of the utmost importance that the soap-lye in 
which the woollens are washed should always be hot ; 
this is readily effected by adding the first to the second, 
and replacing the first by fresh soap-lye, adding, as the 
case may be, ammonia or borax. 

If shrinking is to be entirely avoided, the drying 
must be accelerated by repeatedly pressing the woollens 
between soft cloths. In no case should woollens be let 
dry in the sun, as that makes them dry and hard. They 
are best dried in a moderate current of air, and in cold 
weather in a warm place, not too near the stove. 

Very suitable for washing woollen as well as mixed 
goods is a decoction of soap-root or of quillaia bark, 
neither of them attacking even the most delicate colors. 

Flannels are soaked over-night in lukewarm water 
and washed in water of not above 122° F. An addition 



FINE WASHING. 59 

of borax instead of soda promotes the cleansing pro- 
cess. When the articles have been freed from the 
worst dirt, they are several times rinsed in warm water, 
and finally washed in warm water to which one table- 
spoon fnl of wheat-flour (or simply wheat-bran) per quart 
lias been added. They are then washed in cold soft 
water. 

Flannels not too dirty may be cleansed by treating 
with lukewarm soap solution to which, besides borax, 
some water of ammonia has been added, or by simply 
washing in a decoction of soap-root. 

The original whiteness of woollen and mixed goods 
which have turned yellow can only be restored by bleach- 
ing. Chloride of lime solution is not very suitable for 
this purpose, animal substances being with difficulty 
taken up by chlorine. Such articles must, therefore, be 
treated either with sulphurous acid solution or with 
gaseous sulphurous acid. Sulphurous acid solution can 
be procured in almost any drug-store. Place the articles 
in the solution, cover the vessel and allow them to re- 
main in the fluid, with occasional stirring, until the 
desired effect has been produced. 

The operation is still more simple by proceeding as 
follows : Place the washed articles while still wet in a 
solution of hyposulphite of soda and allow them to soak 
for a few hours. In the meanwhile prepare in another 
vessel a solution of hydrochloric acid free from iron, or 
still better of tartaric acid, and into this bring the arti- 
cles, without wringing, from the first solution. The 
vessel containing the acid fluid must be well covered, as 
in consequence of the action of the acid upon the hypo- 



60 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

sulphite, sulphurous acid is developed, which acts as a 
decolorant. 

Bleaching with gaseous sulphurous acid requires cer- 
tain contrivances, the simplest form of which consists 
of a tight box provided with two apertures, through 
one of which the articles to be bleached are introduced 
and through the other an iron dish containing burning 
sulphur. The apertures must of course be provided 
with well-fitting lids. The articles to be bleached must 
be covered with a cloth. 

After bleaching by either of the above described 
methods, the articles must be washed, their whiteness 
being enhanced by adding some water of ammonia to 
the wash-water. 

Notwithstanding bleaching, every white fabric shows 
a more or less yellowish cast and for that reason is 
generally blued. Now it is an undeniable fact that blue 
and yellow combine to form green ; hence all fabrics blued 
with a blue coloring-matter (indigo solution, ultra- 
marine, etc.) always possess a greenish cast, which can 
only be removed by again passing them through a solu- 
tion of a red coloring-matter. 

It is therefore advisable to use, instead of a blue, a 
violet coloring-matter, various kinds of aniline blue with 
a reddish cast, and especially methyl- violet 4 R, being 
very suitable for the purpose. 

Woollen shawls and borders ivith colored embroidery are 
washed in a similar manner in soap-water containing 
borax, or in a decoction of quillaia bark. 

Garments of muslin de laine and similar fabrics have 
to be ripped apart before washing. For the latter pur- 
pose three wash-tubs standing alongside one another and 



FINE WASHING. 61 

each provided with a washboard are required. The 
pieces are pressed and rubbed in succession against the 
washboards, and when they come from the last tub 
are perfectly clean. They are then rinsed, blued and 
starched, and brought into the drying-chamber, where 
they are stretched upon frames. 

White curtains, laces, and embroideries. Before wet- 
ting these articles baste a strip of muslin along the scal- 
loped sides. Heat the water in a tub, which holds about 
20 pairs of curtains, to about 140° or 149° F. and add 
2 lbs. of soda and 2 lbs. of chloride of lime. Before 
adding the latter stir it to a stiff paste with cold water, 
then scald with hot water and use the clear solution only. 
After manipulating the articles allow them to remain in 
the fluid for 20 minutes, then lift them out and rinse 
in warm water. If more articles are to be bleached, 
add to the same fluid 1 lb. of soda and 1 lb. of chloride 
of lime. Rinse the articles once more in water and 
prepare another bath of about 100° F. to which add 1 
pint of sulphuric acid. Into this bath bring the articles 
and manipulate them for a few minutes until they are 
of uniform whiteness ; then rinse them twice in warm 
water, adding, when rinsing the second time, 1 lb. of 
soda. ]S T ow lift the articles out and set them aside. 
During cleansing and bleaching prepare a tub full of 
boiling water, and add to the latter sufficient soap solu- 
tion. In this boiling soap-bath the articles are washed 
until clean, when they are rinsed twice in warm water 
and blued. They are then placed by means of the 
above-mentioned strips of muslin upon large extension- 
frames provided with pins pointing upward and, after 



62 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

stretching them uniformly by drawing out the frames, 
dried. 

Another method of washing curtains is as follows : 
Shake every curtain, or hang the curtains on a line and 
brush them down with a soft brush. Prepare a soaking 
liquid by melting a small quantity of borax in warm 
water ; soak for an hour or two, then squeeze between the 
hands to remove the superfluous water. Take a good 
quality of soap, chip it into hot water, and stir until all the 
soap is melted and a fine lather produced. By this time 
the water will be moderately warm. Immerse the curtains 
in this, passing them repeatedly through the lathered 
water or working them up and clown. Rubbing should 
be avoided ; when absolutely necessary, do it gently and 
without a brush. Squeeze out the soapy water, and 
rinse in plenty of soft warm Avater. Wring carefully. 
Curtains should be dried quickly. They may be spread 
to dry on clean grass, otherwise they are better for being 
stretched and pinned to w r ooden frames while drying. 

It is advisable to use cooked starch for curtains. Use 
good starch; mix it thoroughly in warm water which 
should be made to boil for fifteen or twenty minutes. 
While cooling add a very little indigo-blue. This is 
only to be used for pure white curtains. The starch 
should be decidedly thick. Draw the curtains through 
it, squeeze out gently, and dry rapidly. 

Many persons prefer tinted curtains to pure white 
ones. If they are to be colored, do not put any blue 
in the starch, but for preparing the latter use water that 
has been slightly tinted with coffee (for ecru curtains), 
tea for a more decided hue, or saffron (for yellow tint). 



FINE WASHING. 63 

A decoction of logwood may be used for giving the cur- 
tains a delicate pink hue. 

Satin, silk ribbons, brocade, and silk damask are best 
cleansed by the dry or chemical process. They may, 
however, also be cleansed by rubbing them either with 
yolk of egg or Venice soap, washing in tepid water, 
rinsing in cold water, and drying. Now dissolve good 
gum tragacanth in equal parts of wine-vinegar and 
spring water, and strain the solution through a cloth; it 
should not be too thick. Dip the fabric in this solution 
so that it is uniformly moistened, then squeeze out the 
gum water, and by means of a brush spread the fabric 
upon a smooth board and let it dry quickly in the sun, 
or near a warm stove. Silk ribbons, however, should 
be ironed dry. 

Another method of washing silk ribbons is as fol- 
lows : Wash the ribbons with ox-gall and soap in 
warm water, and impart lustre to them with honey 
and white of egg, or draw them several times through a 
solution of gum tragacanth and sugar. Then let them 
dry and finally iron them between two sheets of paper. 
The iron should not be too hot. 

To clean black silk. Add to ox-gall sufficient boiling 
water to make it warm, and with a clean sponge rub 
the silk well on both sides ; squeeze it well out, and 
proceed in like manner. Rinse it in clean water, and 
change the water until perfectly clean. Dry it in the 
air and pin it out on a table ; but first dip the sponge in 
glue water and rub it on the wrong side ; then dry be- 
fore a fire. 

To clean white silk. White silk is best cleaned by dis- 
solving curd soap in water as hot as the hand can bear, 



64 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

and passing the silk through and through, handling it 
gently and rubbing any spots till they disappear. The 
silk should then be rinsed in lukewarm water and 
stretched by pins to dry. 

To renovate black silk. According to the French pro- 
cess, a weak solution of coffee-water is used. Do not wet 
the silk too much, and restore the lustre by careful rub- 
bing with a soft handkerchief. White silks can be 
cleansed with a dry powder composed of fine starch and 
a little laundry blue. Rub over the tissue, and dust 
thoroughly. Bread-crumbs or chalk should be used for 
pink or cream-colored silks. Silks may be ironed on 
the wrong side with a moderately hot iron, or on the 
right side (to give a fine lustre) if well protected by 
two folds of slightly dampened muslin. 

Silk and silver galloons are placed in curdled milk for 
24 hours. Then convert a piece of good soap into shav- 
ings, stir them in 2 quarts of soft water, add a propor- 
tionate quantity of honey and fresh ox-gall, and beat 
the whole for some time. If it becomes too thick, add 
water so that a thinly-fluid paste is formed. Allow this 
to stand for 12 hours, and then apply it to the wet gal- 
loons. Then wrap a moist cloth around a mangle roller, 
around the cloth the galloons, and around the latter 
another moist cloth. The galloons are then mangled, 
they being occasionally moistened with water, and seve- 
ral times brushed over with the above-mentioned paste. 
Next soak gum arabic in water until completely dis- 
solved, add an equal quantity of sugar, and when this 
is completely dissolved, and the solution has become 
clear, immerse the galloons in it; then mangle them 
smooth between two cloths and hang them up to dry. 



FINE WASHING. 65 

To wash gold galloons place them overnight in urine, 
or a poor quality of white wine, and then proceed in 
the same manner as with silver galloons. 

If the galloons, laces, etc., are worn so that the white 
ground shows through, they may be restored as follows : 
Extract 50 parts by weight of shellac, 2 of dragon's 
blood, and 2 of turmeric root with strong alcohol, and 
decant the ruby-red extract. Apply the extract by 
means of a camePs-hair brush to the articles to be re- 
stored, and then pass over them at a height of several 
inches a hot flat-iron, so that the galloons only feel the 
heat. 

Gold embroideries are treated in the same manner. 

Silver laces or embroideries are cleansed with a powder 
prepared as follows : Alabaster is strongly calcined, 
and while hot placed in whiskey. A white powder is 
obtained, which is dried over the flame of a spirit-lamp 
and placed in a linen bag. The lace is then dusted over 
with the powder and brushed with a velvet brush. 
Instead of the alabaster powder, Vienna lime may be 
used. 

Another method of cleaning gold and silver lace is 
as follows : Sew the lace in a clean linen cloth, boil it 
in 1 quart of soft water and \ lb. of soap, and wash it 
in cold water. If tarnished, apply a little warm spirits 
of wine to the tarnished spots. Gold lace may also be 
cleaned by the application of a weak solution of cyanide 
of potassium. 

Silk fabrics and tissues are best washed in a decoction 
of soap-root or quillaia bark, or in a decoction of tea, or 
in strong bran-water in Avhich some alum has been dis- 
solved. Great care has to be observed in the use of 



66 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

soap, the latter exerting in many cases an injurious effect 
upon the colors. Instead of soap, it is preferable to use 
a dilute solution of water of ammonia (1 part of water 
of ammonia to 10 parts of water), and to thoroughly 
manipulate the silk in it without the assistance of heat. 
This treatment can be especially recommended for black 
silk, which thereby becomes like new ; colored silks 
should first be experimented with to see whether the 
ammonia affects or changes the colors. Lustre is im- 
parted to washed silk by applying, before ironing, beer 
or a thin solution of gum tragacanth or gum arabic. 
Good results are also obtained with a solution of 5 ozs. 
of mastic in 200 ozs. of spirits of wine. Place the 
silk upon an ironing-board, and with a sponge moisten 
a portion of the fabric with the mastic solution. Then 
iron this portion dry with a moderately hot iron. On 
account of the resin, this work presents some difficulties, 
which may, however be overcome, by skill and expe- 
rience. By uniformly continuing the operation, the 
fabric acquires a lustre which is not injured by rain. 

To ivash laces. Cover an ordinary wine-bottle with fine 
flannel, stitching it firmly round the bottle. Tack one 
end of the lace to the flannel, then roll it very smoothly 
round the bottle and tack down the other end, then 
cover with a piece of very fine flannel or muslin. Now 
rub it gently with strong soap-water, and if the lace is 
very much discolored or dirty, fill the bottle w T ith hot 
water and place it in a kettle or saucepan of suds and 
boil it for a few minutes. Then place the bottle under 
a tap of running water to rinse out the soap. Make 
some starch about as thick as arrow-root for an invalid, 
and melt in it a piece of white wax and a little loaf- 



FINE WASHING. 67 

sugar. Plunge the bottle two or three times into this 
and squeeze out the superfluous starch with the hands. 
Then dip the bottle in cold water, remove the outer 
covering from the lace, fill the bottle with hot water and 
stand it in the sun to dry. When nearly dry take it 
carefully off the bottle, pick it out with the fingers and 
then lay it in a cool place to dry thoroughly. 

Another method is as follows : First rip off the lace, 
carefully pick out the loose bits of thread and roll the 
lace very smoothly and securely round a clean black 
bottle previously covered with old white linen. Tack 
each end of the lace with a needle and thread to keep it 
smooth, and be careful in wrapping not to crumple or 
fold in any of the scallops or pearlings. After it is on 
the bottle take some of the best sweet oil and with a 
clean sponge wet the lace thoroughly to the inmost folds. 
Have ready in a wash-kettle a strong cold lather of 
clear water and Castile soap. Fill the bottle with cold 
water to prevent its bursting, cork it well, and stand it 
upright in the suds, with a string round the neck secured 
to the ears or handle of the kettle, to prevent its knock- 
ing about and breaking while over the fire. Let it boil 
in the suds for an hour or more till the lace is clean and 
white all through. Drain off the suds and dry it on the 
bottle in the sun. When dry remove the lace from the 
bottle and roll it round a wide ribbon-block, or lay it in 
long folds ; place it within a sheet of smooth white 
paper, and press it in a large book for a few days. 

Instead of a bottle, it is preferable to use a perforated 
cylinder of white porcelain (Fig. 4), which is covered 
with fine muslin. Then wrap the lace round the muslin 
and cover it with muslin. Boil the whole in soapsuds 



68 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

to which some borax has been added, rinse in clean 
water, starch, and dry, the latter being rapidly effected 
in consequence of the many perforations of the cylinder. 
When dry remove the lace from the cylinder. 

Fig. 4. 




To wash white silk crape. Soak over night in a solu- 
tion of good white soap in milk, then sponge without 
rubbing, and lay it in a solution of soap in water for 12 
hours ; and finally place it between two damp cloths in 
a basket. Put some sulphur in an iron-pot and place 
the latter in a barrel or tall vessel, covering the latter 
with a cloth folded four times. Place the basket con- 
taining the crape over the sulphur, which is now ignited 
and allowed to burn some time. The crape is then 
taken out, stretched evenly over a board covered with 
cloth, and pressed down upon it with a sponge dipped 
in white boiled starch. Bubbles of starch, if formed, 
may be removed with a wet sponge. 

To wash white gauze. Place the gauze between two 
cloths, together with some fine shavings of Venetian or 
other good soap, put all in a tin dish, and pour luke- 
warm water over it. Place a cloth folded double on 
top, load it down with a weight, and, when the water 
has become cold, pour it off and replace it by lukewarm 



FINE WASHING. 69 

water, repeating this operation several times. Now let 
it stand overnight under the pressure of the weight, 
then rinse the gauze several times with lukewarm water. 
The further treatment and sulphuring are the same as 
given for white silk crape. 

Fine muslins, batists, etc., are first soaked in warm 
water. Then boil 550 ozs. of soap, 15 ozs. of alum, 
and 32 ozs. of tartar to a mass, and after removing the 
scum, form the mass into pieces or balls. With one of 
these pieces rub the fabric without disarranging the 
threads; then squeeze out and repeat the operation 
several times. Now rinse several times in clean water, 
taking care that no particles of soap remain adhering to 
the fabric, otherwise yellow stains will be formed. 
Finally, pour a few drops of indigotine solution in clean 
water, rinse the fabric in it, and dry it in the shade. 

Veils require different treatment according to whether 
they are white or colored. White veils are washed in 
blood- warm soap-water, gently wrung out, rinsed in cold 
well-water, blued, starched, beaten half-dry between the 
hands, and finally hung up to dry thoroughly. 

Black and colored veils are cleansed by rinsing in ox- 
gall and water to remove the dirt, afterwards in pure 
water to remove the gall, and lastly in a little gum 
water to stiffen and crisp them. They are clapped half- 
dry between the hands and finally hung up to dry 
thoroughly. 

For cleansing and renovating colored, and especially 
black veils, some washers only use whiskey, whereby 
they impart a characteristic lustre to the tissues. They 
are then stiffened with .gum- water, clapped between the 
hands, and finally ironed between two moist linen cloths. 



70 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Skimmed milk and water, with a little bit of glue in 
it, made scalding-hot, is excellent to restore rusty Italian 
crape. If clapped and pulled dry like muslin, it will 
look as good as new ; or brush the veil till all the dust 
is removed, then fold it lengthwise, and roll it smoothly 
and tightly on a roller. Steam it until it is thoroughly 
dampened, and dry on the roller. 

Calicoes, as well as other cotton goods and fabrics, are 
washed in a decoction of soap-root or quillaia bark. 
Wheat-bran is also frequently used, the process being 
as follows : Heat water in a wash-boiler so hot that the 
hand can scarcely be held in it. Then add of wheat- 
bran the eighth part of the weight of the articles to be 
washed, stir the mixture for five minutes over the fire 
then introduce the articles, stir them frequently with a 
wooden stirrer, and let the bran-water boil. Then allow 
it to cool, thoroughly wash the articles in the bran- 
water while still warm, rinse in clean soft water, and 
dry at the ordinary temperature. 

Nankeen is more difficult to wash. It is well known 
how easily it may be spoilt; this can, however, be pre- 
vented by the following treatment : Take, for every 
nankeen article to be washed, about 1 oz. of green tea, 
boil it in the necessary quantity of water, pour the de- 
coction w T hile boiling-hot through a clean linen cloth 
upon the nankeen, and allow it to remain in it until 
cold. Then take the nankeen out and dry it, without 
wringing out, in the shade. 

For washing nankeen garments use soap-water, not 
too hot. Then boil the garments, rinse them, and 
hang them up inside out, and without wringing, in a 



FINE WASHING. 71 

shady place to dry. Iron them on the wrong side with 
an iron not too hot. 

The mode of cleansing taffeta varies according to 
whether the fabric is white or colored. White taffeta is 
soaked in soft water and then washed with wheat-bran 
and Venice or another good soap. It is then rinsed, 
sulphured, and finally stiffened with gum tragacanth, 
fleabane seed, and indigo solution, then mangled between 
two cloths and lightly brushed. 

By another method white taffeta is washed three times 
in a solution of 5 ozs. of good white soap in 2 gallons of 
soft water prepared by boiling and cooled off to lukewarm. 

Black taffeta is washed in a like solution of soap in 
water which has stood overnight, then stiffened with 
gum arabic and fleabane seed, and mangled and ironed. 

Another method of washing black taffeta, as well as 
other black-silk fabrics, is by rubbing the fabric with 
a sponge dipped in beer, mint-water, or whiskey, then 
mangling dry between two cloths, and finally ironing 
on the wrong side. 

Embroidered fabrics, or muslin, linen, as well as cloths, 
caps, etc., woven with gold, require very careful handling. 
They should be soaked in cold water, strictly avoiding 
all rubbing and squeezing, to prevent a disarrangement 
of the threads. When this has been done, make suds of 
lukewarm water and Castile soap, place the embroideries 
in it, and carefully squeeze them out ; then place them 
in fresh water, and after four hours squeeze them out 
and let them dry ; then sew muslin around the edges of 
each piece and stretch in a frame for finishing. 

To clean velvets, velveteens, and plush. Silk and cotton 
velvets, velveteens, and plush, when stained or gener- 



72 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

ally soiled through wear and exposure, may be either 
cleaned or dyed. Slightly soiled fabrics should be 
brushed to get rid of dust, and then sponged with a 
weak solution of borax or with benzine. When very 
much soiled they will have to be dipped in a bath of ben- 
zine, weakened by the addition of a little water. The dry- 
ing should not be too rapid, but thorough. The pile must 
be brushed quickly the right way, but previous to brush- 
ing the pile, the back of the fabric must be stiffened ; for 
this purpose prepare a strong solution of gum arabic in 
water. On taking the velvet or plush out of the bath, 
dry it and then brush the back over with the gum solu- 
tion. This stiffens the fabric and prevents the pile from 
getting loose. When dry, turn over the velvet on the 
right side and brush it smartly, so that the pile lies up- 
right and in the proper direction. If this precaution of 
stiffening the back is not observed, the brushing will 
only do harm. If stiffened, the pile remains firm, and 
can be easily brushed up. In the case of figured and 
parti-colored velvets this precaution should never be 
omitted, or the design will be spoiled. Velvet dress- 
trimmings that are faded and greasy may be made to 
appear like new material by judiciously following the 
above directions. 

To restore the pile of velvet, hold the wrong side of the 
velvet over boiling water, and the pile will be gradually 
raised. 

In the following, a concise statement regarding the 
cleansing of various fabrics and renovation of the at- 
tacked colors is given : — * 

* " Deutsche Musterzeitung." 



FINE WASHING. 73 

Soiled or stained woollen goods, such as cashmere, 
merino, etc., are cleansed as follows : Add to a dean 
water-bath 2 spoonfuls of tincture of soap (spiritus 
sapoiiatus) and 1 spoonful of ox-gall ; quickly wash 
the fabric in the bath once, or, if necessary, twice • 
rinse in cold water, and finally, to prevent the fading 
of the color, draw it through a clean, very weak alum 
bath; place the cleansed fabric between two linen cloths, 
and after wringing out secure it by pins to a frame and 
dry it in the shade. 

White satin and, as a rule, nearly all silk fabrics, are 
treated as follows : Mix in the cold way 1 part white 
soap, 2 parts white honey, and 4 parts whiskey ; gently 
heat the mixture to the boiling-point and apply the 
very hot liquid with a soft brush to the satin to be 
cleaned. The latter should for this purpose be spread 
upon a marble plate which has previously been care- 
fully cleansed by washing with whiskey. Rinse the 
satin several times in cold water, without wringing, 
until the water runs off clear ; then place the satin 
between two white linen cloths, allowing it to remain, 
according to the season, for one hour or less, when, 
while still damp, it is ironed with a hot iron. By this 
treatment the satin reacquires its entire freshness and 
pristine lustre. 

In place of hard white soda soap, soft potash soap 
may be employed. In this case prepare a mixture of 2 
parts of tincture of soap and 1 part of white honey, and 
apply the hot mixture uniformly to the fabric. If too 
thick, dilute the mass with a little whiskey. By the use 
of a hot iron, as above described, the labor of securing 
the satin by pins to a frame and of drying is saved. 



74 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

All slight stains disappear by the above described 
method of cleansing. It is, however, absolutely neces- 
sary that the brush, wash-water, and smoothing-iron 
should be perfectly clean, and that the mixture, the ob- 
ject of which is to destroy the stains, should always be 
hot. 

To cleanse colored silk fabrics, for instance, a necktie, 
or an embroidered silk shawl, proceed as follows ; Dis- 
solve 1 oz. of gall-soap in a corresponding quantity of 
boiling-water. When solution is complete and the soap- 
water has acquired a temperature of 104° F., immerse 
the shawl in the fluid, move it to and fro in it, or, if it 
has the necessary stability, wash it between the hands 
like cotton goods, and then rinse it several times in 
warm water. If the shawl contains colors which might 
fade, rinse it in water acidulated with 4 per cent, sul- 
phuric acid. More acid must not be used, especially 
with fiery yellow, scarlet, crimson, and chestnut-brown 
colors ; other brown, bronze, and fawn colors require no 
addition of acid. 

However, in all cases the cleansing must be done 
quickly, so that the soap does not act too long upon the 
colors, because it attacks the constituents of crimson, 
rose-color, red, and yellow, as well as the various shades 
of these colors. The action of the soap upon the colors 
is therefore decreased by working rapidly, then rinsing 
in the acid bath, squeezing out the fabric, without 
wringing, spreading it upon clean stout linen, rolling it 
together with the linen and wringing. After this oper- 
ation spread the shawl, etc., upon a frame, dry it in the 
drying-chamber and calender it cold. 



FINE WASHING. 75 

Silks dyed blue, or the various shades of violet, are 
cleansed from stains with a syrupy solution of Castile 
soap, to which some white potash has been added. 
Wash the fabric in this solution, rinse in water, wring out 
between stout linen cloths, and dip in a weak decoction 
of isinglass, to which has been added a very small quan- 
tity of potash. To freshen up the color, brush the back 
of the fabric with a sponge, again wring between stout 
linen cloths, and finally dry upon a frame. 

The above described method, however, cannot be 
employed for French blue, which is dyed with Paris 
blue, it being decomposed by alkalies. The same holds 
good as regards the well-known chemical blue. 

Olive-green silks are scoured in the same manner as 
the preceding colors, without, however, dipping in an 
acid bath. To freshen up the color, add to the last wash- 
water some acetate or sulphate of copper. 

To clean and wash black silk proceed as follows : Dilute 
ox-gall with 6 or 7 parts boiling water. With a clean 
sponge dipped in this fluid rub both sides of the silk, 
allow it to drain off between the hands, then rinse in 
soft water until the latter runs off clear, squeeze out the 
fabric and dry it upon a frame. Then brush the back 
with a sponge dipped in a weak decoction of isinglass. 
By finally drying in the drying-chamber the fabric 
acquires its original appearance. 

If the black silk has yellow stains similar to rust-stains, 
immerse it in a water-bath slightly acidulated with 
sulphuric acid, move it to and fro in it and knead it 
with the hands for five minutes. It is then rinsed in 
cold water, and its original lustre restored by careful 
drying and ironing. 



76 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Carpets are best cleansed by the dry or chemical pro- 
cess. 

To freshen up carpets on the floor (without taking 
them up) cover them with an inch thick layer of saw- 
dust, moistened with soda solution, so that it can be 
strewed without any of the fluid dripping off. Then 
pass an iron roller, similar to those used for garden 
walks, several times over the sawdust. The effect pro- 
duced by this operation is that the solution contained in 
the sawdust is squeezed out by the weight of the roller, 
but after the passage of the latter is immediately re- 
absorbed by the sawdust, the whole operating, so to 
say, like a large sponge. The w r eight of the roller can 
be regulated according to the moisture of the sawdust, 
so that too strong a pressure which would force the fluid 
to the back of the carpet can be avoided. When the 
moistened sawdust is supposed to have acted sufficiently 
it is removed by a revolving brush similar to a carpet- 
sweeper. 

The use of other sawdust saturated with clean w&ter 
alone, rolling as above, and vigorous brushing, effect the 
removal of dirt and at the same time of the soda solu- 
tion. The carpet is now clean, but its colors are not 
fresh. The colors previously changed by light and air 
have become still uglier by the soda solution, scarlet 
appearing violet-brown, etc. 

The original brightness of the colors is soon restored, 
as far as possible, by treating the carpet with sawdust 
moistened with oxalic acid solution. The operation is 
finished with sawdust moistened with clean water. 

To be sure, by these operations, which are rapidly exe- 
cuted, the upper side of the carpet is strongly moistened; 



FINE WASHING. 77 

the solid basis-tissue, however, remains nearly dry, so 
that after the operation is finished the carpet dries 
rapidly in the air. Drying is still more rapidly 
effected by spreading, after the last moist treatment, dry 
cotton cloths over the carpet and passing the roller over 
them. The cloths then absorb the moisture. 

The sawdust is from time to time washed in water, 
freed from water in a centrifugal, and prepared anew. 

Smaller and ordinary carpets are first well beaten, 
brushed, and then manipulated wet with a brush. For 
this purpose bring one end of the carpet upon an ob- 
lique table, allowing the rest to remain rolled up in front 
of the table. Pour strong soda solution upon the portion 
on the table, scrub it with a stiff scrubbing-brush, work- 
ing from the upper to the lower end of the table, and 
rinse by pouring on lukewarm water, brushing con- 
stantly. Soap-baths no longer suitable for washing gar- 
ments may be advantageously utilized for washing 
ordinary carpets. 

When the portion covering the table is finished, the 
carpet is drawn sideways and a fresh portion the size 
of the table is treated in the same manner, the opera- 
tion being repeated until the entire breadth is finished. 
It is then rolled up and placed on the other side of the 
table, a fresh portion to be cleansed being at the same 
time placed on the table. The operation is thus con- 
tinued until the entire carpet has been gone over. The 
table is then turned round so that its lower end faces 
the roll of carpet. The freshening up of the colors is 
then proceeded with by pouring a bath acidulated with 
hydrochloric or sulphuric acid upon the portion of the 
carpet upon the table, spreading the fluid out uniformly 



78 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

by means of the brush, brushing thoroughly, and rinsing 
immediately. The operation is then continued in the 
same manner as washing until the entire carpet has 
been treated with the acid bath. 

The results obtained by the above-described opera- 
tions are very satisfactory, one workman ouly being 
required. The carpet thus cleansed is then hung upon 
a line to dry, which requires from 6 to 8 hours. 

To cleanse and wash ichite sheepskins. Rub the skin- 
side with tallow or oil and then dry with the assistance 
of heat. Now wash in the ordinary manner with soap 
and water and dry ; then wash with benzine. Treated 
in this manner the skin remains soft. 

To cleanse white woollen blankets. Wash them, with 
the assistance of the washboard, in two good soap-baths 
containing a small quantity of soda ; then rinse them in 
a soda-bath and hang them in the sulphuring chamber 
to bleach. 

The latter consists of a chamber, the access to which 
is closed as hermetically as possible. In the floor paved 
with bricks is a box-like cavity which is filled with from 
2 to 10 lbs. of pulverized sulphur. About 4 inches be- 
low the ceiling are placed wooden poles over which the 
blankets are hung. The ceiling is lined with smooth 
boards, and care should be taken not to use in the ceil- 
ing — and, if possible, in the construction of the entire 
chamber — iron nails or other metallic parts, as they 
may cause stains of rust or verdigris difficult to re- 
move. In the ceiling is a valve, which can be opened 
from the outside, for the escape of the sulphur vapors 
when the bleaching process is finished. 

The blankets being hung over the poles, the sulphur 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 79 

in the cavity in the floor of the chamber is ignited with 
a hot iron and the cavity covered with a stone in such 
a manner as to leave a few small openings through 
which the vapors may escape. This is done to prevent 
the flame from blazing up and scorching the blankets. 
The door of the chamber is then closed and made as 
air-tight as possible. 

The blankets are allowed to remain in the chamber 
for 12 to 24 hours. The door and the valve for the 
escape of the vapors are then opened and the blankets 
taken out. They are then turned for 5 to 10 minutes 
in a warm bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, next 
rinsed and dried. 

After drying, the blankets are steamed by drawing 
them over the steam-box, and are finally carded. 



IV. 

BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 

The object of bleaching the straw for hats and the 
hats themselves is a two-fold one, viz : either to restore 
the original whiteness of soiled hats, or to make them 
more suitable for the reception of colors. 

Hats not too much soiled may be cleansed by wash- 
ing with a 5 per cent, solution of citric acid, using a 
small sponge for the purpose. Then rinse thoroughly 
in water and dry in the sun. The result is surprising. 
The following method also yields good results : Take 
good potash soap, separate it with dilute soda-lye and 
common salt, and add to it, while still soft, i- of its 



80 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

weight of pulverized sulphite of soda. Then cut the 
soap into bars, dry it and put away for use. 

The soap is employed as follows : Soak the articles to 
be bleached in water to which, for every 12 quarts, 
about 11 drachms of water of ammonia have been 
added. When the articles have been thoroughly soaked 
and adhering grease has been removed by this treat- 
ment, a portion of the above-mentioned soap is dissolved 
in 10 or 12 parts of water, and the actual washing 
effected in this solution. When the articles have thus 
been thoroughly treated, they are immersed in dilute 
hydrochloric acid (about 20 parts water to 1 part acid), 
so that they are thoroughly saturated. The vessel is 
then covered, and, after standing for one hour, the 
articles are taken out, thoroughly rinsed and dried. 

The actual decoloration (bleaching) of straw, whether 
in a loose or braided state, is a difficult problem, re- 
qiring, besides much labor and pains, many years' 
experience. 

Bleaching may be effected by chlorine as well as by 
sulphurous acid ; natural bleaching will not answer, be- 
cause the coloring-matters in the straw are not sufficiently 
destroyed thereby, and, moreover, the straw by remain- 
ing for some time upon the bleaching ground loses 
strength. Neither can bleaching with chlorine alone be 
recommended. It exerts a vigorous bleaching effect, 
but having to be used rather strong, it makes the straw 
brittle and lustreless. An entirely favorable result is 
only obtained by bleaching with sulphur, eventually in 
connection with chlorine, which, however, must then be 
used very weak. But, first of all, it is necessary to free 
the articles of straw from substances which offer a 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 81 

certain resistance to the bleaching process, such as color- 
ing-matters, resins, wax, etc. For this purpose boil the 
articles in a solution of potash to which white soft- 
soap and water of ammonia have been added. Continue 
boiling for at least two or three hours, during which 
time the articles should be constantly covered by the 
fluid, and it is therefore necessary to replace the water 
lost by evaporation without interrupting the boiling. 

The washing of the boiled articles is effected first in 
boiling-hot water, which is gradually succeeded by 
colder water. If it were attempted at once to wash the 
articles in cold water, many of the above-mentioned 
substances, which are only soluble in boiling or hot 
water, would be precipitated upon the fibre and the ex- 
pected result thus prevented. Neither is it suitable to 
allow the straw to lie in the cleansing bath, because by 
slow cooling many of the above-mentioned substances 
are fixed on the fibre. The object of washing with 
boiling water, and then with water becoming gradually 
colder, is to detach and rinse off from the fibre the sub- 
stances dissolved by boiling. 

After washing allow the articles to drain off, and then 
bring them, w 7 hile still moist, into the bleaching-fluid. 
For bleaching, as above mentioned, chlorine or sul- 
phurous acid may be used. Some prefer the former, 
but many years' experience has proved the latter to be 
the best for the purpose. Decoloration is very rarely 
effected by means of gaseous chlorine, because special 
contrivances are required for the purpose, and, further- 
more, the preparation of chlorine gas demands the 
services of a skilled person. Hence, a description of 
6 



82 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

the various manipulations with gaseous chlorine is 
omitted. 

Wet bleaching with chlorine may be effected by two 
different methods : either by the use of a chloride of lime 
solution, or one of the bleaching-fluids mentioned on 
p. 38. 

For bleaching with chloride of lime, a solution of it 
has first to be prepared. This is frequently effected 
by bringing a weighed quantity of chloride of lime 
into a wooden vessel lined with lead or provided with 
a thick coat of white-lead paint, stirring it with some 
water, crushing the lumps formed, and finally adding 
with constant stirring the necessary quantity of water. 
However, this is a very primitive mode of preparing 

Fig. 5. 



the solution, and cannot be recommended, because by 
the action of the carbonic acid of the atmosphere 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 83 

progressive decomposition is induced, chlorine gas being 
developed, which exerts a disagreeable effect upon the 
respiratory organs. 

It is, therefore, recommended to use for the solution 
of the chloride of lime a simple apparatus which does 
not permit the access of air, or at least prevents it to a 
great degree. 

A stout barrel suffices for dissolving not too large 
quantities of chloride of lime. To the head and bottom 
of the barrel are screwed, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, 

Fig. 6. 




circular pieces of iron ending in short shafts, m, which 
run upon anti-friction rolls. To one of these shafts is 
secured a crank, iT, and on the same side as the crank is 
an adjusting arrangement, s. The aperture closed by a 
bung, Z, or a stop-cock, serves for discharging the solution. 



84 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

In the interior of the barrel, to the head and bottom, 
are fixed at equal distances from each other three pairs 
of wooden blocks, between which are inserted the three 
movable wings b. These wings are provided with 
holes, and secured by leaded pieces of iron. The oval 
aperture of the barrel is hermetically closed by an iron 
plate lined with lead and resting upon a rubber ring. 
An iron strap, d, Fig. 7, which is secured on one side by 

Fig. 7. 




an iron pin, /, and rests at g in a furcular elevation of 
the lid, can be firmly pressed down by a movable wedge, 
i. At h the strap d rests in another furcular elevation 
secured to the barrel. 

To secure the wooden portions of the barrel against 
destruction, they should either receive several coats of 
w T hite-lead paint, or, what is still better, be lined with 
lead. 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 85 

The advantages of such a vessel for dissolving the 
chloride of lime consist in that it can be hermetically 
closed ; that solution progresses rapidly ; and that it can 
be thoroughly cleansed after removing the wings. The 
only disadvantage of this and all other similar contriv- 
ances is that the solution cannot be drawn off clear, 
any residues of chloride of lime depositing in the deepest 
place of the apparatus. Since, however, the solution 
has to be perfectly clear for use, it must be filtered 
through close linen. 

As a rule, 10 to 12 quarts of solution are made from 
2 lbs. of chloride of lime. 

The vessels in which the bleaching of straw articles 
is to be effected must be either of wood lined with lead, 
or painted with white lead or asphalt lacquer, or of 
stoneware. The vessel is filled as far as necessary with 
perfectly clear chloride of lime solution ; the straw arti- 
cles, previously prepared by boiling with potash, are 
then, while still moist, introduced and allowed to remain 
several hours, being frequently stirred. The principal 
requisite is that the articles be entirely covered by the 
fluid. After a few hours add some acetic acid or a cor- 
responding quantity of strong vinegar, whereby a more 
vigorous evolution of chlorine gas is produced. 

By heating the vessel containing the chloride of lime 
solution to about 104° F., the process of decoloration is 
accelerated. 

When sufficiently bleached the articles are taken from 
the vessel, and rinsed first in running water and then in 
a solution of hyposulphite of soda. 

AVhen the hypochlorites (bleaching-fluids) are used the 
straw articles are allowed to remain in them until the 



86 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

desired degree of decoloration has been effected. With 
hypochlorites the action of chlorine upon the vegetable 
fibre is entirely excluded , their effect being solely due to 
the liberation of ozonized oxygen. Such solutions pos- 
sess the advantage of always remaining neutral and of 
not inducing, as frequently happens in bleaching with 
chloride of lime, a residue of hydrochloric acid in the 
bleached articles, which causes them gradually to become 
brittle. Washing need not be so carefully done as w T hon 
bleaching with chloride of lime. 

Like decoloration with chlorine, bleaching with sul- 
phurous acid is also executed according to various 
methods. 

For bleaching with sulphurous acid in a gaseous state 
special arrangements (bleaching-chambers) must be pro- 
vided. A simple apparatus suitable for a small number 
of straw hats has been described on p. 60. The hats, as 
well as all other articles which are to be bleached with 
sulphurous acid in a gaseous state, have to be wrapped 
in a close tissue. 

With the use of the aqueous solution of sulphurous acid 
the process is the same as in bleaching with chloride of 
lime solution, the only difference being that the addition 
of acids is omitted. The hats remain immersed in the 
fiuid for a few hours, care being taken to keep the vessel 
containing the fluid well closed during that time. The 
process may in this case also be accelerated by heating 
the bleaching-fluid. 

The process of bleaching is still more simplified by 
the use of a salt containing sulphurous acid, such as 
sulphite or hyposulphite of sodium, etc. Dissolve a 
sufficient quantity of such a salt in water and immerse 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 87 

the previously cleansed straw articles, while still moist, 
in the solution, allowing them to remain in it for several 
hours. In the meanwhile, prepare in another vessel a 
dilute solution of hydrochloric acid free from iron (one 
of tartaric acid is preferable), bring the hats into the 
solution, and after covering the vessel with a lid allow 
them to stand until they have acquired the proper de- 
cree of whiteness. 

If the hats and other articles of straw are properly 
prepared by treatment with soap, potash, and water of 
ammonia, they will come from the bleaching-fluid in a 
faultless state. They are then rinsed in running water, 
and to increase still further their whiteness they may 
be slightly blued with methyl-violet of a reddish tinge. 

For six hats of the ordinary kind, 3^ ozs. of hypo- 
sulphite of sodium and 2§ to 3 ozs. of pure hydrochloric 
acid free from iron are generally required. Exact quan- 
tities by weight cannot be given, since the variety of 
straw, thickness of the braid, etc., have to be considered. 

With the exception of black, tar colors are now gen- 
erally used for dyeing straw. 

In dyeing black, many difficulties are met with, since, 
notwithstanding the greatest care in preparing the straw, 
places are generally found which do not absorb the color 
in the required degree. 

Experience has shown that this evil may be overcome 
as follows : Add a solution of gluten which has been 
allowed to stand for 24 hours to a lye of soda or pot- 
ash, and when a thorough mixture has been effected, 
filter the fluid through a linen cloth ; then immerse the 
straw in the clear liquid for 12 hours. The straw is 
thus freed from grease. When dry immerse it in a 



88 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

solution of nitrate, sulphate, or acetate of iron, allow- 
ing it to remain for 12 hours, when it is dried. Now 
prepare a decoction of logwood, add a decoction of 
sumac or galls, or solution of tannin, and immerse the 
straw in the hot fluid. A slight addition of bichromate 
of potash improves the tone of the dye. Lustre is pro- 
duced with gum arabic or gelatine. When this has 
been done, rub each hat with a woollen cloth and a 
trace of oil, and finally, to remove the oil, with a clean 
cloth. 

According to another method, the hats freed from 
grease are brought into a dye-bath containing for 25 
hats 4 lbs. of logwood, 26 ozs. of galls, and 5 ozs. of 
turmeric, and allowed to boil for two hours. They 
are then taken from the bath, rinsed, and immersed in 
a solution of nitrate of iron at 4° Be. until they have 
acquired the desired shade of black. 

Another method is as follows : The hats are first 
steeped in soda at 5° Be. at a temperature of 122° F. 
for three hours, rinsed, and soaked overnight in a de- 
coction of sumac containing 2J lbs. sumac for every 5 
hats. In the morning take out, drain, and lay the hats 
separately to air for six hours; rinse and dye at 144° 
F., with 2\ lbs. logwood per 11 lbs. of hats, till the 
shade is reached. Lift, drain, dip singly in a luke- 
warm fluid containing 8| ozs. glue per 17 pints of 
water, dry, and rub with a hard brush. 

Silver-gray is produced by boiling the bleached straw 
hats in a solution of 4 lbs. of pure alum free from iron 
and 3| ozs. of tartaric acid for two hours, and then adding 
sufficient cochineal and indigo-carmine, besides a small 
quantity of sulphuric acid, to produce the desired shade. 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS. 89 

It may here be remarked that hats to be dyed must 
previously be freed from grease by immersion in an 
alkaline lye, and, for light colors, bleached. 

Chcstnid-broioi (for 25 straw hats). Boil 26 J ozs. of 
sanders-wood, 35} ozs. of turmeric, and 3J ozs. of log- 
wood in water for half an hour ; then strain the liquor 
and gently boil the hats in it for two hours. The dye- 
bath must be of such a capacity that the hats are not 
pressed one against the other. The hats are then thor- 
oughly rinsed and allowed to stand overnight in a bath 
of nitrate of iron at 4° Be. They are finally once 
more steeped in a bath of sanders-wood and then in one 
of logwood. 

AVhen dry, lustre is imparted by brushing the hats 
with .a hard brush. 

A beautiful medium brown, suitable only for finer 
straw-hats (120 hats), is obtained as follows: Immerse 
the hats in a solution of tin salt, allowing them to 
remain overnight, and the next morning wash them 
thoroughly in water ; then heat a boilerful of clean 
water to boiling and add 4 lbs. of fustic, 2 lbs. of 
madder, and 3 ozs. of archil. In this bath boil the 
hats for about two hours, and after adding 3 lbs. of 
catechu and 3 lbs. of green vitriol, boil for two hours 
more. None of the hats should project from the bath, 
otherwise they become black. After dyeing, cool at 
once and then draw the hats through warm water, 
whereby they acquire a beautiful brown. 

The cheapest brown on stratv-hats (for 12 hats) is ob- 
tained as follows : Steep the hats in a solution of 1 lb. 
of soda, allowing them to remain until they appear dark 
yellow. Dissolve in another vessel 4 J ozs. of green vit- 



90 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

riol ; immerse the hats in the solution, allow them to 
remain for 10 to 15 minutes, moving them frequently, 
and rinse in warm water. By allowing the hats to re- 
main in the bath for a longer time, and using a larger 
quantity of green vitriol, they become darker. 

Havana-brown (for 22 lbs. of hats). Soak the hats 
in a solution of 4J to 6 lbs. of alum, then dye in a bath 
of 13 ozs. of sanders- wood, 1 lb. of turmeric, 3 J ozs. of 
sumac, and 12 \ ozs. of logwood, and rinse. 

Catechu-brown (for 22 lbs. of hats). Boil with sul- 
phate of alumina 34 J ozs., bisulphate of soda 17 \ ozs., 
sulphuric acid 8f ozs. Add to the bath archil, indigo- 
carmine, and turmeric according to shade, and boil. 

Maroon. Clean the straw by boiling with a solution 
of carbonate of soda, and then steep in a bath of logwood 
for two hours. To give a bluish tint, add some blue- 
stone to the bath ; if too much of the latter is used, the 
straw will have a greenish hue. This color is not fast, 
and is employed only for its cheapness. 

Violet (for 25 hats). Dissolve in a kettle of sufficient 
capacity 4 lbs. of alum, 1 lb. each of argol and tin salt, 
and boil the hats in the solution for two hours. Then 
add logwood decoction, with a little alum and indigo- 
carmine, according to the shade desired. 

Yellow. To produce the yellow shade which is 
frequently in such demand, give the hats a bath con- 
taining a little picric acid and acidulated with a little 
sulphuric acid, and let them dry on the block. For a 
gloss, rinse in gum water or water in which gelatine has 
been soaked. 

The most beautiful colors on straw, however, are ob- 
tained with aniline colors, but, as previously mentioned, 



BLEACHING AND DYEING OF STRAW HATS 91 

the straw must first be freed from grease and bleached. 
It is then mordanted with a decoction of 7 ozs. of 
sumac, 35 ozs. of alum, and 17| ozs. of tartar. 

The process may be simplified by dyeing in an aniline 
color-bath containing tannin and fixing in a solution 
of tartar emetic. 

Many aniline colors are taken up by the fibre with- 
out previous mordanting. 

The aniline colors possess the advantage of being 
mostly soluble in water. Solution is best effected by 
pouring about 100 parts of boiling water over 1 part of 
aniline color and thoroughly stirring. The aqueous 
solutions beiug in time subject to decomposition, it is 
recommended to prepare only sufficient for present use, 
and, before dyeing, to filter them through a close cloth, 
siuce any undissolved particles of coloring-matter may 
readily cause stains. 

With aniline colors all possible shades of color may 
be produced. Thus canarin yields fast yellow ; metal- 
line-yellow, very fine yellow shades; methyl-violet with 
new Victoria-green gives peafowl-green ; whilst brilliant 
green, malachite-green, or new Victoria-green yields, 
with auramine- or metalline-yellow, any desired shades 
of yellow-green. Erythrine gives beautiful yellowish- 
red to bluish-rose colors, and, mixed with ponceau, beau- 
tiful fiery red tones. 



92 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 



V. 

CLEANSING AND DYEING OF GLOVES. 

In cleansing gloves, the kind of glove, whether so- 
called Suede, chamois, buckskin, or kid, 'has to be taken 
into consideration. The first three varieties may be 
cleansed by putting them on the hand or a glove-tree 
(a wooden hand) and rubbing them with bread-crumbs 
or a stiff brush dipped in a mixture of dried fuller's 
earth and powdered alum. 

Usually, the gloves are laid in cold water for a few 
minutes and then washed in the ordinary manner in 
lukewarm soap-solution to which some water of am- 
monia has been added. When clean they are gently 
squeezed out between cloths without wringing. Instead 
of water, milk may be used, the treatment being the 
same as above described. 

Suede gloves, after washing, are usually laid in spirits 
of wine for 24 hours, then hung up and dried in the 
shade, in the air. 

A quite good method of cleansing is as follows : Place 
the gloves in a fluid composed of 2 parts of water of am- 
monia and 8 parts water for two days, then rinse in cold 
soft w<ater and dry in the air. Since by this method of 
washing the gloves are not rubbed as is necessarily the 
case in washing with soap, the leather does not become 
rough, but preserves its original appearance. 

Another method of cleansing chamois , buckskin, and 
undressed kid gloves is as follows : Wash them in hike- 



CLEANSING AND DYEING OF GLOVES. 93 

warm soft water with a little Castile or curd soap, ox- 
gall, or bran-tea, then stretch them on wooden hands or 
pull them into shape without wringing. Next rub them 
with pipe-clay j yellow ochre, or umber, or a mixture of 
them in any required shade, made into paste with ale or 
beer; let them dry gradually, and, when about half-dry, 
rub them well so as to smooth them, and pull them into 
shape. When they are dry brush out the superfluous 
color, cover them with paper, and smooth them with a 
warm (not hot) iron. 

Another method is as follows: Take out the grease- 
spots by rubbing them with magnesia or cream of tartar. 
Then lay the glove flat on a board, the bottom of a dish, 
or other unyielding surface ; dip a piece of flannel in a 
lather made with curd soap and warm water, and rub 
the glove with it until all the dirt is out, turning it 
about so as to clean it all over. Then rinse first in 
warm water and next in cold. Dry in the sun or before 
the fire. All gloves are better and more shapely if dried 
on glove-trees or wooden hands. 

Kid gloves are best cleansed, without the use of water, 
as follows : Put the gloves on your hands and wash 
them in spirits of turpentine until they are quite clean, 
rubbing them exactly as if washing your hands. When 
finished hang them in a current of air to dry and to 
take off the smell of turpentine. 

The use of gelatinized benzol may also be highly rec- 
ommended, but in this case the gloves must be stretched 
on wooden hands. 

Another mixture for cleansing kid gloves is as follows : 
Eau de Javelle 135 parts, water of ammonia 8, powdered 



94 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

soap 200, water 150. Make into a soft paste and use 
with a piece of flannel. 

Another way is to use a strong solution of pure soap 
in hot milk, beaten up with the yolk of an egg to a pint 
of the solution. Put the glove on the hand and rub it 
gently with the paste, to which a little ether may be 
added, then carefully lay aside to dry. White gloves 
are not discolored by this treatment, and the leather will 
thereby be made clean and soft as when new. 

The best mode of cleansing kid gloves is, however, 
with benzol. Stretch the gloves over wooden hands and 
rub them with a soft brush dipped in benzol until they 
are perfectly clean. 

Another plan is as follows : Put the gloves together 
with a sufficient quantity of pure benzol in a large stop- 
pered vessel, and shake the whole occasionally with 
alternate rest. If, on removing the gloves, there remain 
any spots, rub them out with a soft cloth moistened with 
ether or benzol. Dry the gloves by exposure to the air, 
and then place them smoothly between glass plates at 
the temperature of boiling-w T ater until the last traces of 
benzol are expelled. They may then be folded and 
pressed between paper with a warm (not hot) iron. 

Dyeing hid gloves. The gloves are smoothly stretched 
over wooden hands, and the color applied with a brush. 

Black. After washing the gloves in alcohol, apply 
three times a decoction of logwood by means of a brush, 
allowing between each application ten minutes for dry- 
ing. Then dip the gloves in a solution of green vitriol 
and brush with warm water. Should the color not 
prove sufficiently dark, a decoction of fustic or quercitron 
may be added to the logwood decoction. Instead of 



CLEANSING AND DYEING OF GLOVES. 95 

green vitriol, nitrate of iron may be used. As the 
leather begins to dry, it is rubbed over with a little olive 
oil and talc powder, and pressed between flannel. The 
treatment with oil and talc powder is repeated, and the 
glove then allowed to dry on a wooden hand. The in- 
side of the glove must not get black, consequently none 
of the coloring-matter should reach it. 

The bluish tint so greatly admired in black gloves is 
obtained by washing the dyed article with water of 
ammonia. 

Brown. The dye-bath is made up of varying quan- 
tities of decoctions of fustic, logwood, and Brazilwood, 
according to the shade desired. For darkening;, a small 
quantity of green vitriol is employed. 

Morocco-red is produced by brushing the glove with 
a decoction of cochineal to which a little tin salt and 
oxalic acid are added. If a darker tint is desired, add 
a small quantity of logwood decoction. 

Gray is obtained by brushing with decoction of 
sumac and subsequent treatment with weak solution 
of green vitriol. An addition of logwood and yellow 
Brazilwood to the decoction of sumac produces a 
greenish -gray tint. 

If the seams are to remain white, cover them with 
flour-paste mixed with a small quantity of grease. 

The use of aniline colors for dyeing kid gloves is, 
however, far more simple and cheaper than the pre- 
viously described methods. 

There are at present very few colors which cannot be 
produced with the assistance of aniline colors, and, with 
the exception of very special shades, it may be asserted 
that leather can be dyed even in the most difficult colors. 



96 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

However, not all aniline colors can be used for dyeing 
leather, it having been shown that many of them which 
are suitable for silk and wool exert a destructive in- 
fluence upon leather. 

For dyeing with aniline colors the gloves are smoothly 
stretched over wooden hands and first treated with a 
mordant ; tannin, sumac, potassium chromate, and espe- 
cially ammoniacal salts being best adapted for the pur- 
pose. The mordant, as well as the solution of coloring- 
matter, is applied with a brush or a sponge. 

Red. According to the intensity of shade desired, 
which may be increased by the addition of small quan- 
tities of picric acid, dissolve pure water-soluble fuchsine 
in more or less water at from 78° to 86° F. Without 
previously mordanting the gloves, apply the solution at 
the above-mentioned temperature with a brush. With 
leather free from alum a perfectly uniform color is ob- 
tained which resists subsequent washing and exposure 
to the air. 

Violet. Water-soluble aniline-violet alone is suitable 
for the purpose. Mix the solution with a small quan- 
tity of sulphate of aluminium, apply it like fuchsine, 
and rinse thoroughly. By the addition of blue or red, 
more bluish or reddish shades are obtained. Iodine- 
violet aniline colors yield the most beautiful shades; 
however, they resist for a short time only the action of 
light and air. 

Blue. By pouring water of 86° F. over a pure, in- 
tense blue, endeavor to hit a degree of dilution at which 
a quite pale color is produced, and obtain darker shades 
by repeated applications. According to the variety of 
aniline-blue employed, mordanting the leather with 



CLEANSING AND DYEING OF GLOVES. 97 

amnion iacal salts, alum, etc., may be recommended ; the 
most suitable mordant, however, has to be ascertained 
by an experiment on a small scale. As a rule, a small 
quantity of bichromate of potassium suffices. The 
various kinds of alkaline-blue are successfully used, 
and yield very beautiful tones, especially on delicate, 
fine leather. To combine the color more readily with 
the leather, a small quantity of sulphuric acid may be 
added to the alkaline-blue; wash thoroughly after dye- 
ing, and dry at not too high a temperature. 

Green. The most suitable coloring-matter for this 
purpose is iodine-green. It may be used in paste and 
in powder, but the aqueous solution should be made as 
concentrated as possible. After brushing the glove with 
solution of sulphate of ammonium, apply the solution of 
coloring-matter at about 95° F., its soaking through 
being prevented by rapid operating. Picric acid should 
not be added to the solution of coloring-matter, but be 
applied to the leather before and after dyeing with iodine- 
green. 

Yellow and brown. Experiments with aniline-yellow 
and brown have shown that picric acid is frequently to 
be preferred to the first, and dye-woods to the latter. 
Picric acid produces, without mordant, the same colors 
on leather as on silk and wool, and is very resistant to ex- 
terior influences. The color produced is modified to 
green by aniline-blue, and to red by crimson. The 
solution to be used should be very dilute and, to pre- 
vent soaking through, its temperature should not exceed 
68° F. 

Vesuvine, nigrosine, flavine, and similar aniline colors 
occurring in commerce are, according to their quality, 



98 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

partially suitable and partially unsuitable for dyeing 
leather, so that general directions for their use cannot be 
given. 

If, for the production of special shades, it is desired 
to mix colors, it must be done by the subsequent appli- 
cation of the pure coloring-matter to the leather. 



VI. 

DYEING OF FEATHERS. 

Treatment in general. For all colors, except black 
and a few light colors, acid coloring-matters should, if 
possible, be used. Feathers dyed with these colors re- 
quire, after being once or twice rinsed, to be drawn 
through a final rinsing bath acidulated with sulphuric 1 
acid, after which they are dried. 

With ostrich feathers or large fancy feathers, the addi- 
tion of coloring-matter is best effected by placing the 
articles in a sieve, or a willow- ware basket, since if they 
remained in the kettle they would break and tear in 
consequence of the necessary rapid handling, and besides 
would spot. The dissolved coloring-matter is added to 
the dye-bath, stirred, and the sieve or basket containing 
the feathers is placed in it. 

For smaller fancy articles, such as chicken feathers 
and small wings, the addition of the coloring-matter is 
effected as follows : Bring the dissolved coloring-matter 
into a copper pan which holds 1 to 3 quarts and is pro- 
vided with a long handle. Fill the pan with dye-bath 
or water and quickly plunge it, whilst constantly stir- 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 99 

ring the feathers, into the kettle, emptying it on the 
bottom. A better, but more troublesome, method is as 
follows : Pour one-third or one-half of the dye-bath 
through a sieve into a kettle, so that the feathers remain 
behind ; then add the coloring-matter, stir thoroughly 
and return the whole, with constant stirring of the 
feathers, to the kettle. In this manner a very uniform 
and rapid distribution of the coloring-matter is effected. 

The dyeing of fancy feathers differs in several respects 
from that of ostrich feathers. 

The portions of birds, such as the goose, duck, king- 
fisher, penguin, pelican, etc., used in the manufacture of 
ornamental feathers, require for dark colors a greater 
affinity for the coloring-matters then they naturally 
possess. This is produced by the addition of sulphate 
of sodium (Glauber's salt) to the acidulated dye-bath, 
bisulphite of sodium being thereby formed, in conse- 
quence of which the fibre is more disintegrated and ab- 
sorbs the coloring-matter more uniformly and to a 
greater degree. 

Moreover, the feathers of the above-mentioned birds 
require greater heat, and may gently boil for J or J 
hour. Buc this cannot be done with articles con- 
taining portions of flesh, sinews, or skin, since they 
would dissolve and the articles fall to pieces. For 
skins, birds, heads, wings, tails, etc., the heat employed 
should also not exceed 167° F. In such cases the ad- 
vantage of greater heat must be replaced by the greater 
strength of the bath. 

Ostrich feathers are tied together by the low T er ends of 
the quills in bundles of from 3 to 5 and 30 to 40 of 
such bundles strung together. 



100 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Dyeing Ostrich Feathers. 

1. Cleansing, a. Large feathers. The feathers are 
soaked in a strong solution of Castile soap at 100° F., 
for one hour, or, still better, overnight, and then washed 
upon a washboard for 10 minutes. They are then 
brought into a weak soda-bath of the above-mentioned 
temperature and treated in the same manner. The entire 
manipulation is then repeated with fresh baths, when 
the feathers are thoroughly rinsed, draw r n through a 
bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 

b. Feathers in bulk. For 10. lbs. of ostrich feathers 
prepare a bath of 5 lbs. of crystallized soda dissolved in 
50 quarts of water, and add a small quantity of water of 
ammonia. Heat the bath to 100° F., introduce the 
feathers, and allow them to remain for 4 to 10 hours. 
Cover the vessel with a lid fitting in it, so that the 
feathers remain completely submerged. Then wash the 
feathers piece by piece upon a washboard, rubbing them 
quite strongly. Then treat them in a second bath of 
7 lbs. of crystallized soda and a little water of ammonia, 
though they need not remain in this bath as long as in 
the first. After again washing, the feathers are several 
times rinsed in cold water and then in warm water, 
drawn through a lukewarm bath acidulated with sul- 
phuric acid, and again rinsed. 

2. Decolorizing. The feathers cleansed in the above- 
described manner are laid flat in a bath of 50 per cent, 
peroxide of hydrogen, 3 per cent, water of ammonia, 
aud 47 per cent, water heated to 100° F. The water 
of ammonia is added after the bath has acquired the 
above-indicated temperature. A glass or stoneware 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 101 

vessel should be used for the bath. Work the feathers 
thoroughly in the bath, let them rest a moment, and 
work again. Then allow them to rest J hour, and work 
once more. 

The bath should be protected from the light, and, 
while resting, the feathers must remain submerged. 
This is effected by placing a lid fitting in the vessel upon 
the feathers and loading it with a stone. 

When the bath is perceptibly exhausted, i. e. when 
the bleaching process no longer progresses, the feathers 
are taken out and the treatment above described is re- 
peated with a fresh bath. The originally gray or black 
feathers will finally appear white. They are then taken 
out, rinsed in several waters, and finally drawn through 
a bath quite strongly acidulated with sulphuric acid. 
They are then again rinsed, and have now the ground 
required for all light colors. If they are to be used 
white, they are slightly blued. 

3. Freeing from grease. After cleansing the feathers 
according to the directions given under 1 6, they are 
brought into a bath which, for 10 lbs. of black ostrich 
feathers, is prepared as follows : Pour into a stoneware 
vessel of 100 quarts capacity 75 quarts of cold water, 
then add the solution of 1 lbs of chromate of potassium, 
and finally 5 lbs. of pure sulphuric acid of 66°. After 
stirring thoroughly, lay the feathers flat in the bath, 
turn them over, and cover the vessel. They are then 
turned over every hour until the natural color is uni- 
formly stripped off and the feathers show a light color. 

Care must be taken not to allow the feathers to re- 
main in the bath longer than necessary for the removal 
of the natural color, and also not to keep the bath too 



102 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

hot. In both cases the feathers are attacked and very 
easily become entirely worthless. The heat should not 
exceed 89° F. The feathers are now rinsed in two cold 
and several warm baths. The warm rinsing baths being 
used for the purpose of more rapidly removing the potas- 
sium, the feathers are left in them for some time. When 
the chromate of potassium has been completely removed, 
the feathers are worked in an oxalic acid bath for \ 
hour and rinsed. They are then worked in a bath of 
2 lbs. of Castile soap, and rinsed in several warm baths. 
The feathers are now sufficiently prepared for the uni- 
form reception of all medium and dark colors. Gray 
ostrich feathers require only half the quantity of chro- 
mate of potassium and sulphuric acid. 

4. White. In case the white of the feathers cleansed, 
according to directions given under 1 a, is disfigured by 
natural brown spots and points, they are brought into a 
bath of 100° F. to which from 10 to 20 per cent, of per- 
oxide of hydrogen has been added. They are taken out 
after half an hour or an hour and brought into a bath 
of 3 per cent, bisulphide of potassium heated to 110° 1\, 
where they remain for half an hour, when they are 
taken out and brought into a bath acidulated with sul- 
phuric acid. They are then rinsed and drawn through a 
cold bath to which a small quantity of aniline-violet, 
(6 B) dissolved in alcohol, or marine-blue has been 
added. 

It may be remarked that the more yellowish the 
white appears, the more of a reddish hue the blue to be 
used should have, otherwise a greenish tinge is readily 
produced. 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 103 

5. Dyeing black. For 11 lbs. of thoroughly washed 
ostrich feathers, prepare a mordanting bath as follows : 
Fill a kettle holding about 150 quarts three-quarters 
full with water, and heat the latter to the boiling-point. 
Then acid 11 lbs. of logwood and 7 T 7 7 lbs. of fustic, 
both dye-woods tied in a bag so as to leave room for 
expansion. Now boil briskly for one hour, then take 
the bags containing the dye-woods from the kettle, and 
add 23 ozs. of ground white argol, 17J ozs. of green 
vitriol, 14 ozs. of blue vitriol, and 10J ozs. of chromate 
of potassium. Stir until all is dissolved and the bath 
has boiled for a short time. Then reduce the tempera- 
ture of the bath by the addition of water to 145° F., 
and place the feathers flat in it. Now, while constantly 
working and handling the feathers, raise the tempera- 
ture of the bath to 190° F., then remove the fire en- 
tirely and cover the kettle, which is done by placing a 
smaller lid in the kettle upon the feathers and a 
larger one upon the edge of the kettle. The latter, to 
prevent cooling as much as possible, is covered with 
sacks. After once more working the feathers in the 
evening, they are left in the bath overnight. The 
next morning the feathers are hung in rows over a rod 
and allowed to cool one hour. They are then rinsed in 
several waters until the rinsing water appears clear. 

Now prepare the following dye-bath : After freeing 
the kettle, by washing with clean water, from the re- 
mainder of mordant, fill it three-quarters full with 
water and bring the latter to the boiling-point. Then 
bring into the kettle 16 J lbs. of logwood tied in a bag 
so as to leave room for expansion, and boil briskly for 
one hour. Then take out the dye-wood, cool the bath 



104 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

to 145° F., and place the feathers flat in it. Heat the 
bath to 194° F., whilst constantly moving and handling 
the feathers. Next remove the fire, cover the kettle, 
and let it stand from 12 to 24 hours — overnight will 
do. Then take the feathers out, but do not rinse them. 

Now repeat the operations of mordanting and dyeing 
as above described with baths of the same nature ; the 
dye-bath previously used may, however, be employed 
as a mordanting bath, the entire mordant with the ex- 
ception of logwood being added. 

The feathers are then rinsed and one after another 
washed on a washboard in two weak, lukewarm soda- 
baths, next in a bath of 5 lbs. of good, white soap, and 
then again in two weak, lukewarm soda-baths. 

The feathers are now chlorinated, the chlorine solu- 
tion consisting of the clear solution of 4 lbs. of crystal- 
lized soda and 2 lbs. of chloride of lime. 

The process of chlorinating requires special attention ; 
it is best to perform it in the open air where there is 
plenty of light and an abundance of water. But as 
these cannot always be had, an example of executing 
the process in the dye-room itself is here given. 

Place alongside the rinsing-tub another tub so that as 
much light as possible falls upon it from above. Now 
fill this tub with water of 122° F., so that the feathers 
can be freely moved in it. Then add about one-quarter 
of the above-mentioned chlorinating solution, stir well, 
and introduce the feathers. In consequence of the 
rapid manipulation, the bath is soon exhausted, and 
a sample of the feathers is occasionally placed in the 
w T ater-bath standing alongside the tub containing the 
chlorinating-fluid. As long as the sample held in the 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 105 

water shows a coppery, bronzed black, too much color- 
ing-matter is present, and more chlorinating solution 
has to be added. The feathers are finished when the 
sample held in the water finally shows a beautiful, deep 
black. 

The feathers are then taken out and rinsed in four to 
six cold water-baths. The more they are rinsed and the 
longer they remain in the water-baths, the more chlorine 
is withdrawn and the more beautiful the black appears. 

6. Bronze, a. Green. The feathers dyed black accord- 
ing to the directions given under 5 are brought into a 
bath of 100° F. to which, for every 11 lbs. of feathers, 
a solution of 7 ozs. T a diamond-fuchsine in large crystals 
has been added. After heating the bath to 167° F., 
manipulate the feathers in it until they show a beautiful, 
lustrous green-bronze. Then take them out and rinse. 

b. Olive. Treat as above with a dye-bath consisting 
of 3J ozs. of I a diamond-fuchsine and 2J ozs. of extra 
superfine aniline-violet 6 B. 

c. Gold. Treat as above with a dye-bath consisting 
of If ozs. of I a diamond-fuchsine and 5J ozs. of extra 
superfine aniline-violet 6 B. 

7. Other colors, including fashionable colors, a. Cream, 
ivory. Naturally white or thoroughly decolorized feathers 
are dyed in a " hand-heat" bath to which a very small 
quantity of dissolved pale yellow has been added. 
Final shading according to sample is effected with a 
very small quantity of orange. 

It may here be remarked that all vessels of stoneware 
or copper must be thoroughly cleansed, especially when 
used for light colors. 



106 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

b. Rose, Venus. Dye the pure white feathers yel- 
lowish with a very weak solution of eosin in a neutral 
bath of 167° F. If the sample is bluish, dye bluish 
with eosin. Final shading according to sample may be 
effected with pale yellow. 

c. Salmon. Dye with solution of eosin and pale 
yellow in a neutral bath of 167° F. Shade according 
to sample with both coloring-matters. 

d. Faille, maize, bamboo. Dye the w T hite feathers in 
a bath to which sulphuric acid, azo-yellow, and a little 
orange have been added, heating up to 190° F. For 
bamboo add a little more orange than for maize. Final 
shading is effected with the above-mentioned dye-stuffs 
according to sample. 

To all acid dye-baths only so much sulphuric and 
tartaric acids should be added that a small excess is 
perceptible to the taste. 

e. del, azure, pale blue. Manipulate for a quarter of 
a hour the cleansed white feathers in a bath to which a 
weak solution of extra superfine, water-soluble pale blue 
has been added, heating up to 190° F. Then take out 
the feathers and add to the dye-bath sufficient sulphuric 
acid diluted with cold water to give it a slightly acid 
taste. Then replace the feathers, handle them for some 
time, and, if necessary, add coloring-matter until the 
sample-color has been obtained. 

/. Butter, bouton cVor, mandarin, coq roche. The 
feathers decolorized, or eventually freed from grease, 
are brought into a bath of 145° F. to which some sul- 
phuric acid, azo-yellow, and a little orange have been 
added. Handle thoroughly and effect final shading 
with the above-mentioned coloring-matters. 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 107 

For bouton d'or a little blue may also be employed ; 
for mandarin quite a considerable quantity of orange ; 
and for coq roche much orange and some ponceau. The 
bath is heated to 200° F. 

g. Panne, heliotrope, prune. The feathers are dyed in 
a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid and heated to 145° 
F. with acid violet R and acid violet 6 B. According 
to whether the sample is clearer or duller, final shading 
may also be effected with acid fuchsine, fast red, ponceau, 
orange, and, on the other hand, with pensee lake and 
indigo-carmine. Heat to 200° F. 

h. Gold, old gold. White feathers are dyed, accord- 
ing to sample, in an acidulated bath at 145° F. with 
azo-yellow, orange, and pensee lake ; for the latter, in- 
digo-carmine may be substituted. 

j. Gray. For the paler shades, white feathers are 
taken, and for the darker, feathers freed from fat. 
They are dyed with aniline-gray, extra superfine, and 
sulphuric acid at 200° F. Shade according to sample, 
with very small additions of fast brown, orange, azo- 
yellow, etc. 

k. Coquilicot, cardinal. Dye the feathers, either white 
or freed from fat, according to sample, with sulphuric 
acid, some saccharic acid, ponceau 3 R, and genuine red 
at 200° F. 

I. Garnet. Treat like the preceding, but, according 
to sample, use for yellow tones red coloring-matters with 
a yellow tinge such as orange, ponceau with pensee lake, 
or indigo-carmine ; and for blue tones, coloring-matters 
with a bluish tinge, such as fast red, acid fuchsine ; also 
acid violet, or marine-blue. 

m. Beige, tobacco, Siam, and intervening shades. 
Feathers freed from fat may be used. Heat and acidity 



108 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

of the bath as usual. Dye with azo-yellow, orange, and 
pensee lake. For the final shading fast brown, as well 
as fast red, ponceau or indigo-carmine may be used as 
required. 

n. Chartreuse — -pale yellow-green. Dye white feathers, 
according to sample, in a bath heated to 200° F. with 
sulphuric acid, azo-green, and acid green. 

o. Oresson — dull yellow-green. Dye in the ordinary 
acidulated bath with azo-yellow, acid green, and aniline- 
gray, extra superfine, as well as eventually with some 
orange. Heat to 200° F. Shade, according to sample, 
if necessary, with pensee lake or indigo-carmine. 

p. Olive. Dye with azo-yellow, orange, and acid 
green in the acidulated bath at 200° F. Shade, if re- 
quired, with pensee lake, indigo-carmine, and also fast 
brown. Feathers freed from fat may be used. 

q. Vesuve, Etna — dull, fiery toues. Dye, according to 
sample, white feathers, or feathers freed from fat, in the 
ordinary bath with sulphuric acid, ponceau, orange, and 
eventually azo-yellow, as well as for bluing, with pensee 
lake, indigo-carmine, or acid violet. Much red and 
yellow coloring-matters give a deep, fiery tone. 

r. Vieux-rose belongs to the so-called distemper colors. 
Dye in the ordinary bath, according to sample, with 
genuine red, ponceau, or orange, and pensee lake. 

The first and the latter coloring-matters yield bluish 
tones; orange and pensee lake more yellowish and dull 
colors. 

8. Marine , admiral. Dye with pensee lake, indigo- 
carmine, and marine-blue of best quality. Besides with 
these coloring-matters, final shading may also be effected 
with acid violet and acid fuchsine. Acidity and heat 
of the bath as usual. 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 109 

/. Basse. Dye in a bath acidulated with sulphuric 
acid with azo-yellow and acid green. Shade with indigo- 
carmine or pensee lake, eventually also with marine- 
blue, and, to give the tone some warmth, also with 
orange. Heat to 200° F. 

u. Gray-blue colors. Water-soluble aniline, pale blue, 
with gray, extra superfine, in a bath acidulated with 
sulphuric acid. Shade, according to sample, with acid 
violet, pensee lake, or indigo-carmine. Acidity and heat 
as usual. 

v. Green-blue colors. Pale blue, acid green. Shade, 
according to sample, with azo-yellow, indigo-carmine, or 
pensee lake, also orange. Acidity and heat of the bath 
as usual. 

il\ Maroon, loutre. Dye in the ordinary bath with 
orange and pensee lake. Shade with azo-yellow, fast 
brown, and indigo-carmine as well as marine-blue. 

Remarks. From ■ rf on, the bath, if not otherwise 
mentioned, is always acidulated with sulphuric and tar- 
taric acids, so that a slight excess of them can be detected 
by the taste. The temperature of the bath is at first 
kept at 145° F., and in dyeing increased to 200° F. 

Ombre (shaded), tricolor ed. Dye the feathers the 
palest color of the sample, which is generally on the 
point. Then, for the reception of the second color of 
the sample, stretch the feathers in a frame which is 
effected as follows : — 

Take two strips and place them across the shading- 
box described below, so that they project about 2 inches 
on each side. The strips may be either of wood 1^ 
inches wide and f inch thick, or of stout sheet copper. 
One of each pair of strips is provided near each end 



110 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

and in the centre with copper screws which accurately 
fit into holes in the other strip. Cover the strip pro- 
vided with screws with a rubber strip of the same size, 
and upon the latter place feathers alongside one another 
up to the end screws. Now place upon them another 
rubber strip of the same size as the first, and fit the other 
copper strip upon the screws. Then screw both strips 
together by means of strong nuts, so that the interme- 
diate space not occupied by feathers is filled up with 
rubber. 

The entire lot being thus stretched in strips, the 
feathers are taken to the shading-box, which consists of 
a rectangular copper box about 25 J inches long, 19| 
inches wide, and 3} inches deep. It is placed in an 
exactly horizontal position over the fire, or a steam-pipe 
is introduced. The box is filled about one-quarter full 
with water, which is acidulated and the required color- 
ing-matter for the second color to be dyed added. When 
the dye-bath has acquired the required temperature, 
place the strips with the feathers across the box, so that 
the feathers are about three-quarters covered by the dye- 
bath. Now dye at 200° F., occasionally shaking the 
strips with feathers, so that the coloring-matter may 
penetrate as uniformly as possible, and the boundary 
between the two colors be not too sharply defined. 

When the second color has been dyed according to 
sample, the strips are unscrewed and the feathers shifted. 
This is effected by drawing them uniformly forward, so 
that, with the shading- box filled to about the same depth, 
the darkest (third) color can be applied to full one-half 
the length of the feather. The strips being again screwed 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. Ill 

together, are replaced upon the shading-box, the latter 
now containing the darker dye-bath. 

It may here be remarked, that for ombre, as well as 
horde, indigo preparations, such as indigo-carmine, 
pensee lake, as well as acid indigo, should as much as 
possible be avoided, they possessing the property of very 
readily runuing into the neighboring pale color, and 
thus giving a bad appearance to the boundary. Hence, 
for dark colors it is best to use marine-blue, violet 6 B, 
or gray, acid green, nigrosine, etc. 

The last color having been dyed, a wide vessel is pre- 
pared for rinsing. The bath should be slightly acidu- 
lated and the feathers stretched in the frame rinsed as 
far as they project from the latter. The purpose of this 
is to remove any loosely adhering dark coloring-matter 
before the feathers are removed from between the strips, 
otherwise there might be danger of the pale colors of one 
feather coming in contact with the dark color of another. 
The feathers are finally taken from between the strips 
and thrown into an acidulated rinsing bath. When 
rinsed they are taken out, care being taken that the 
colors of the same shade lie alongside one another. The 
feathers are then immediately strung together, swung to 
and fro, and dried. 

9. JBorde (bordered feathers), a. Light mirror, dark 
border. The cleansed naturally white or decolorized 
feathers are dyed in accordance with the light mirror of 
the sample. Three to five of them are then placed one 
upon the other upon a narrow, four-cornered stick, so 
that the quills cover one another, and the latter are 
firmly tied in three places to the stick with twine. 
When the feathers are spread out, their points and side- 



112 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

branches then hang down. Xow bring hot water into a 
suitable shallow dish, or, for larger lots, into the shading- 
box, acidulate, and add the coloring-matter required for 
the dark border. Then place the sticks, to which the 
feathers are secured, over the vessel, so that the feathers 
dip in the dye-bath as far as the border is to extend. 
After dyeing at 200° F., take the feathers out, rinse in an 
acidulated water-bath, draw through starch- water, swin^' 
to and fro, and dry. 

b. Dark mirror, light border. Dye the feathers in 
accordance with the light border of the sample, and dry 
without starching. Then firmly tie several thicknesses 
of paper around the border. The feathers thus pro- 
tected are then dyed in the ordinary manner in accord- 
ance with the dark mirror of the sample. The opera- 
tion must be performed as rapidly as possible to prevent 
the protecting cover of the border 'from soaking through 
and thus spoiling the latter. Then rinse in a clean 
water-bath, next in one acidulated with sulphuric acid, 
and, after removing the paper, rinse once more/ The 
feathers are then strung together, drawn through starch- 
water, passed through the centrifugal, and dried. 

Another method of protecting the first color in the 
second dye-bath is as follows: Take a copper-plate, 
similar to those used in shading, but somewhat shorter 
and wider, and provided only on each end with a screw, 
which should, however, be about 4 inches long. Several 
other copper-plates of the same size as the one above 
described are required. They are, however, only fur- 
nished with holes in which the screws of the first plate 
accurately fit. 

Now T place the feather, spread out between two rubber 



DYEING OF FEATHEES. 113 

plates of equal size, and the shape of the portion of the 
feather to be protected, upon the first copper-plate, lay 
upon it another plate, then a feather between rubber- 
plates, upon this another copper-plate, and so on alter- 
nately as many feathers between rubber-plates and cop- 
per-plates as the length of the screws will permit. Now 
screw the whole together with strong nuts, and dye in 
accordance with the dark mirror of the sample. After 
dyeing rinse, and in the second rinsing water, which 
should be acidulated, take the feathers from between 
the plates. The feathers are then strung together, drawn 
through starch-water, passed through the centrifugal, 
and dried. 

It is advisable first to soak the rubber-plates in hot 
water, so that they become quite soft. 

The above described method has the advantage that 
the feathers can be protected wherever desired, and by 
the use of properly shaped rubber-plates any required 
design may be produced. Another method of produc- 
ing contrasting colors — however, without any special 
design — is as follows : Firmly wrap twine around the 
feathers so as to leave a few places free, and dye. The 
places protected by the twine will remain colorless,, or 
retain the color previously applied, whilst the places 
left free will show the new color. By now freeing about 
one-half of the protected portion from twine, and par- 
tially covering the previously applied color, $nd again 
dyeing, four different colors will be obtained. By thus 
continuing the manipulation, and carefully choosing 
the tones so that the colors alongside one another con- 
trast, feathers showing all possible tones may be ob- 
tained. 
8 



114 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Dyeing Fancy Feathers. 

1. Cleansing. With the exception of ostrich feathers, 
the terra fancy feathers is applied to all kinds of feathers 
used in the manufacture of ornamental feathers, hence 
including those from nearly all kinds of birds. There 
being considerable difference in the content of fat, various 
methods of cleansing have to be employed. The treat- 
ment in dyeing also varies somewhat, since the feathers 
of many birds show a different behavior towards the 
coloring-matters. 

Chicken feathers containing no fat need not be washed, 
at least not for dark colors ; they only require, before 
dyeing, to be thoroughly moistened in a hot water-bath 
acidulated with sulphuric acid. However, it is recom- 
mended to once or twice wash all feathers which are to 
show lustre in a bath of Castile soap. 

On account of their content of dirt, most fancy 
feathers require thorough washing, which is effected as 
follows : — 

For 11 lbs. of feathers prepare a bath of 100° F. to 
which add 26 \ ozs. of good white soap, thoroughly dis- 
solved. Stir the feathers in this bath for about 10 minutes, 
and then let them stand, well covered by the bath, for 
one hour. Then after stirring a little more bring them 
into a sieve. 

Now prepare a fresh bath of the same temperature, 
to which 3 lbs. of Castile soap well dissolved have been 
added. Handle the feathers well in this bath and then 
let them stand for one hour, after which they are again 
thoroughly handled and brought into a sieve. They are 
then passed in succession through two baths of 100° F., 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 115 

to each of which has been added 1 lb. of soda well dis- 
solved. They are handled 10 minutes in each bath. 
They are then rinsed in two cold water-baths, next in 
one acidulated w 7 ith sulphuric acid, and again rinsed in 
clean water, w 7 hen they are ready for dyeing. Skins, 
heads, wings, etc. must be more rapidly handled, and 
are not w T orked in the soda-baths, as the fleshy sinews 
and skin would be dissolved. They are washed for a 
short time in a good soap-bath, rinsed in warm water 
and then in w r ater slightly acidulated. White skins, 
wings, etc., intended for light colors, are washed in 
two quite concentrated soap-baths, then in two very 
warm water-baths, rinsed first in slightly acidulated, 
and finally in cold, water. 

2. Decolorizing. Decoloration is made use of only 
for wings and bird skins, and for some larger more 
valuable varieties of feathers. The process is the same 
as given for ostrich feathers, which see. 

3. Freeing from fat. The process is the same as given 
for ostrich feathers, but is of greater importance here, 
it frequently being the initial and final operation, after 
which the articles are ready for the manufacturer. The 
bath is used according to the various natural designs of 
the skins, wrings, and feathers, the result always being 
an agreeable tone. The white mixed with the natural 
design usually suffers somewhat from the chromate of 
potassium, but is restored by the subsequent saccharic 
acid bath. 

4. White. White fancy feathers are brought into a 
bath of 100° F. which, for every 10 lbs. of feathers, 
contains two lbs. of dissolved Castile soap. The feathers 
are thoroughly handled for one-quarter of an hour, and 



116 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

then taken out. They are next brought into a fresh bath 
of the same temperature, but containing 3 lbs. of Cas- 
tile soap in solution, where they remain for one hour, 
being from time to time thoroughly handled. They are 
then taken out and, to remove the soap, are worked 
through two baths of 100° F. each containing 1 lb. of 
soda. They are then twice rinsed in cold water. 

They are next brought into a warm water-bath to which 
3 lbs. of peroxide of hydrogen have been added. In this 
bath the feathers remain for one hour, when they are 
taken out and brought into a bath of 122° F., to which 
1 lb. of bisulphide of potassium has been added. They 
remain in this bath for one hour, when they are brought 
into a fresh warm bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. 
They are then rinsed in a cold bath and next blued, 
according to sample, in a bath to which best aniline- 
violet 6B, dissolved in alcohol, has been added. They 
are then passed through the centrifugal and dried. 

Pale blue, marine-blue, or a redder number of violet 
may also be used for bluing. The reddish tinge of the 
blue depends on the white ; the yellower the latter, the 
redder the blue must be. The blue must be dissolved 
in alcohol, since, if dissolved in water, small blue spots 
are formed in cold bluing. 

5. Dyeing black, a. Chicken feathers. Twenty lbs. 
of unwashed feathers are brought into a water-bath of 
about 200 quarts heated to 200° F. and to which 7 
ozs. of sulphuric acid previously diluted with cold water 
have been added. Stir with a crutch or stick until all the 
feathers are thoroughly moistened. Then cover and let 
stand till the next morning. 

Mordanting. Fill a kettle which should be free from 
acid, and have a capacity of at least 200 quarts, with 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 117 

water and start the fire. When the water boils, add 20 
lbs. of logwood and 16 lbs. of fustic, each dye-wood 
securely tied in a bag, so as to leave plenty of room for 
expansion. Boil briskly for one hour. Then take out 
the bags and add 2f lbs. of best, white argol ground, 
2 lbs. of green vitriol, and 23 ozs. each of blue vitriol 
and chromate of potassium. Stir well on the bottom 
of the kettle until all is dissolved, then bring the whole 
to the boiling-point, and finally add sufficient cold water 
to reduce the temperature of the bath to 145° F. 

The feathers having an hour previous to this been 
taken from the wash-bath, and placed in a sieve to drain 
off, are now brought into the kettle and stirred, with 
constant firing, so that they cannot remain for any length 
of time on the bottom, or on the hot sides of the kettle, 
otherwise the points might readily scorch. 

When the mordanting bath has acquired a temperature 
of 185° F., the fire is withdrawn and, after handling the 
feathers for some time longer, cover the kettle in the 
manner described under " dyeing ostrich feathers black. " 
The feathers remain in the kettle till the next morning, 
when they are taken out and placed in a sieve. Then 
empty the kettle, wash it with water (no acid should be 
used), refill it with water, and start the fire. The feathers 
are now rinsed four to six times until the rinsing 
water appears clear. Then fill a barrel with boiling 
water and dissolve in it 3J ozs. of chromate of potas- 
sium. Bring the feathers into this bath, stir well, and 
let them stand. 

Dyeing. Bring 20 lbs. of logwood into the kettle 
and boil briskly for one hour. Then remove the bag 
containing the logwood and reduce the temperature of 



118 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

the bath to 145° F. by the addition of cold water. The 
feathers having been allowed to drain off in the sieve 
for half an hour are then brought into the kettle and 
thoroughly handled, the temperature of the bath being 
gradually increased to 194° F. The fire is then with- 
drawn, aud after handling the feathers for some time 
longer, the kettle is covered in the previously described 
manner and allowed to stand overnight. The next 
morning the feathers are brought into a sieve and several 
times rinsed in cold water, when they are brought into 
a bath of 100° F. containing 2 lbs. of soda in solution. 
They are next placed in a fresh bath of the same tem- 
perature, containing 10 lbs. of good white soap in solu- 
tion. Here they are thoroughly handled for one hour, 
when they are taken out and passed in succession 
through two soda-baths of 100° F., each bath contain- 
ing 2 lbs. of soda, when they are once more rinsed. 

Treatment with chlorine. The chlorine solution used 
for this purpose is of the same composition as that em- 
ployed in chlorinating ostrich feathers. Add some of 
the solution to a water-bath of about 400 quarts heated 
to 111° F., stir thoroughly and work the feathers in it. 
After 10 minutes take out a handful of feathers, place 
them in a clean water-bath and examine them in a good 
light. If they cannot be well seen in the water, dry five 
to ten of them. If the black shows a coppery lustre, 
add a corresponding quantity of chlorine solution to the 
bath, stirring constantly. If at the next examination 
the black appears clear and deep, take the feathers 
quickly from the bath, rinse them in three or four cold 
water-baths, pass them through the centrifugal, and dry. 

b. Turkey feathers. Wash the feathers according to 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 119 

directions given under cleansing. They are then in the 
main treated like chicken feathers, the only differences 
being as follows : 1 . Gently boil the mordanting bath 
with the feathers for ^ hour. 2. After standing in the 
mordanting; bath overnight, the feathers are taken out and 
spread out in the air for one hour. 3. During this time 
add to the mordanting bath used about one-quarter of 
the quantity of mordant originally employed. 4. Re- 
turn the cooled feathers to the mordanting bath, heat to 
the boiling-point and let stand, well covered, overnight. 
5. The next morning take them out, cool them in the 
air and then rinse. The treatments with chlorine solu- 
tion and dyeing are the same as for chicken feathers, 
except gently boiling \ hour. 

c. Pigeon feathers. Wash thoroughly according to 
directions given under cleansing. Then subject the 
feathers to the same treatment as given under 5a, 
observing the following differences: 1. Instead of 
moistening in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, 
wash thoroughly as above mentioned. 2. For mordant- 
ing take \ part more fustic and bring the bath with the 
feathers to the boiling-point. 3. Boil for a short time 
in the dye-bath. 4. Omit the soap and soda-bath. 

d. Goose and duck feathers. Wash thoroughly accord- 
ing to directions given under cleansing. Then treat the 
feathers in the same manner as given under 5a, observ- 
ing the following differences : 1. The mordanting bath 
should contain J more fustic. 2. Boil in the mordant- 
ing and dye-baths for half an hour. 3. Omit the soap 
and soda-baths. 

e. Peacock feathers. The treatment is the same as for 
ostrich feathers, but the feathers must be freed from 



120 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

their natural bronze by treating them according to 
directions given under " Dyeing ostrich feathers, 3." 

/. Parrot feathers. Treat the same as given for turkey 
feathers, but first remove the natural bronze according 
to directions given under 3. The temperature of the 
baths should not exceed 167° F. 

g. Skins of kingfishers and magpies. Treat the skins 
in a concentrated bath of good white soap, and then 
rinse in several warm waters. They are then placed for 
one hour in a strong chlorine bath of 100° F., prepared 
according to directions given under " Dyeing ostrich 
feathers, 5." They are then rinsed twice in cold 
water and next brought into a strong logwood bath of 
100° F., where they remain for two hours. Then, with- 
out rinsing, they are placed for half an hour in a bath 
of medium strong potash solution heated to 100° F. 
Next rinse thoroughly and return them to the logwood 
bath for one hour. Then rinse thoroughly, draw them 
through a good soap-bath, rinse again, and finally treat 
with chlorine. 

h. All other kinds of birds, wings, skins, heads, and 
tails. AVash according to directions given under clean- 
sing. Dye as given under da, but the temperature of 
the bath should not exceed 167° F. 

6. Bronze. Green, olive, gold. The feathers are 
dyed black, and rinsed, but not treated with chlorine. 
They are then dyed in the same manner as given for 
ostrich feathers. 

7. Other colors, including fashionable colors. The 
treatment is the same as given for ostrich feathers. 

8. Ombre. The same directions as given for ostrich 
feathers also apply here, but for fancy feathers two 



DYEING OF FEATHERS. 121 

colors are, as a rule, only demanded. As regards the 
variation in the treatment of fancy articles from ostrich 
feathers, the reader is referred to the section " Treatment 
in general." 

9. Changeant. Parrots, as well as other birds and 
wings, are decolorized according to directions given 
under " Dyeing ostrich feathers, 2." They acquire a 
beautiful changeant if dyed cream-color (see ostrich 
feathers, 7), and dried at rest. Next prepare a neutral 
bath of 122° F., with very little eosine, and in this bath 
handle the cream -color dyed wings, etc., without previous 
wetting, for a short time. The dry articles become only 
partially wet in the eosine bath, the wetted portions 
acquiring a salmon color, while those not wetted remain 
cream color. 

A beautiful contrast is also obtained with decolorized 
larch wings, as well as other wings, etc., which have 
been dyed mandarin, and dried. By drawing such 
articles through a solution of brilliant green, the wetted 
portions acquire an olive color, while the non-wetted 
portions remain mandarin. 

Drying. The difference in the construction of ostrich 
and fancy feathers necessitates different methods of dry- 
ing. 

Ostrich feathers, after dyeing, are passed through a 
small bath of cold water, to which a considerable quan- 
tity of raw wheat or rice starch has been added, two 
handfuls of starch being taken for 3 quarts of water and 
1 lb. of feathers. The feathers after being thoroughly 
rubbed in this starch-water are squeezed out and passed 
through the centrifugal. The separate bunches after 
being somewhat beaten are hung over a line. A special 



122 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

frame in the form of a very broad ladder, secured by 
long ropes to the ceiling, is also used for this purpose. 
In summer the feathers may be dried in the open air, 
otherwise a special room which can be heated to 122° 
F. is required. In the open air they are allowed to 
hang quietly, it being only necessary to beat them 
occasionally either between the hands or over the edge of 
a table. But when drying in a room with no natural 
motion of the air, the latter must be artificially produced. 
This is effected by tying the lines upon which the feathers 
are hung somewhat slack and swinging them, or the 
above-mentioned frame, to and fro, occasionally beating 
or shaking the feathers ; which may finally be hung up 
in warm air for one day. 

Articles of fancy feathers should not be drawn through 
starch-water, but after rinsing be passed through the 
centrifugal. 

Feathers of smaller size, such as chicken and pigeon 
feathers, are brought into the drying drum. This is a 
double-walled copper cylinder with perforated ends. A 
steam-pipe for heating the drum is placed between the 
two walls. The feathers are introduced into the drum 
through an aperture on the side, while the moisture 
escapes through the perforated ends. The drum is re- 
volved by means of a crank until the feathers are dry. 

Skins, wings, etc., are almost completely dried in a 
quiescent state. They are then brought into the drum, 
so as to receive a steam bath from the moisture remain- 
ing in them, which gives them a beautiful appearance. 

Larger fancy feathers, such as the tail feathers of 
roosters, etc., may be strung together like ostrich 
feathers, and dried upon the line. They are, however, 
not drawn through starch-water. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 123 



vn. 

DYEING GARMENTS. 

Considerable general experience is required to be 
able to dye worn garments in an approved style, the 
operation being a combination of the three principal 
branches of dyeing, viz., of silk, woollen, and cotton. 
An essential factor, namely, the original color, has also 
to be taken into consideration, and, furthermore, the fact 
that the garment while in use has not been uniformly 
exposed to the action of light and air, which, independent 
of the difference in appearance of the various parts, very 
readily causes an unequal absorption of the coloring- 
matter by the tissue. Stuffs of mixed fibres especially 
require careful treatment, as otherwise, for example, in 
dyeing the cotton in a fabric, the wool in the same 
fabric might acquire a bad appearance, or combine only 
externally with the coloring-matter, and consequently 
lose color when in use. 

Hence coloring-matters and mordants have to be used, 
which overcome such inequalities as much as possible. 

Dyeing Silk Garments and Ribbons, 

Silk garments to be dyed a light color must show 
a white ground, or the old color should be of such a 
nature that it can be entirely removed by washing, or, 
at least, a clear, light tone, similar to the color to be 



124 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER., 

dyed, should remain after washing. However, beautiful 
light colors can only be produced upon a white ground, 
and even then it will be possible to trace a few places 
which by perspiration, dirt, or contact with air and 
light have acquired a different affinity for the coloring- 
matter. 

After washing and in dyeing the greatest care is re- 
quired, and perfect cleanliness should prevail. All 
crumpling together of the articles should be avoided, 
and it is therefore advisable to let the garments remain 
in the last rinsing water until dyeing commences. For 
dyeing, copper kettles should be avoided, or, if this 
cannot be done, the kettle should be very wide, so that 
in handling the articles they do not come too much in 
contact with the sides of the kettle, otherwise copper- 
stains, or so-called kettle-stains, may be readily formed. 
Another reason for the employment of a wide kettle is, 
that by laying closely together in a narrow kettle creases 
difficult to remove are readily formed, especially in heavy 
silk garments. 

As regards dyes for silk fabrics, the acid aniline 
colors may be recommended. For the production of 
deeper full tones, they may be combined with indigo, 
pensee lake, etc. The silk fibre combines with these 
coloring-matters without a mordant, it being in most 
cases only necessary to acidulate the dye-bath with suffi- 
cient sulphuric acid that its presence can be detected by 
the taste. However, for black, as well as all other dye- 
woods, quite strong mordants are required. 

It is of great importance that the dye-baths should 
not be used too hot, and it is not necessary to raise the 



DYEING GARMENTS. 125 

temperature of the dye-bath if the coloring-matter has 
been fully and uniformly absorbed by the articles. 

Washing. The articles are spread out upon a zinc 
plate or table, and the parts soiled by dirt or perspira- 
tion treated, by means of a soft brush, with a concen- 
trated solution of good white soap heated to 122° F. 
After thus going over the entire lot to be dyed, the 
garments, etc., intended for the lightest color are gently 
boiled in a Castile-soap bath for one-quarter of an hour. 
For articles to be dyed dark, good white soap may be 
used instead of Castile soap. The garments, etc., are 
then taken out, drawD through a weak soda-bath of 
100° F., and rinsed. The articles intended for light 
colors are then passed through a warm bath acidulated 
with sulphuric acid and again rinsed. Articles to be dyed 
black are treated with brush and soap solution, as above 
described, and placed in a soda-bath of 100° F. for half 
an hour. 

1. Black (5 lbs.). A. Lustrous black. Pickling. 
The object of pickling is to remove the original colors 
and to obtain a uniform ground. 

Add to 50 quarts of water in a wooden vessel, 1 J pints 
of nitric acid, and bring the bath to boiling. Place the 
articles broad in the bath, let them gently boil, moving 
them for a short time, then take out and rinse. This 
manipulation is for blue-black articles. If a deep black 
is to be produced, add to the hot nitric acid bath 1 lb. 
of turmeric. 

Mordanting. Work the articles in a nitrate of iron 
bath of 12° B. for one-quarter of an hour, then take 
out and expose them to the action of the air for half an 
hour. Then rinse in cold Water. To remove the iron 



126 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

which has not entirely combined with the fibre, the 
articles are finally drawn through a hot water-bath, 
when they are ready for dyeing. 

Dyeing. Add to about 100 quarts of water in a 
copper kettle a decoction of 4 lbs. of logwood, as well 
as a good solution of Castile soap, the quantity of the 
latter depending on the hardness of the water. Sufficient 
soap — say J to 1 lb. — should be added, so that the dye- 
bath shows a strong foam when stirred. The tempera- 
ture of the bath should be about 100° F. The garments, 
etc., are now entered, and while working them in the 
dye-bath the temperature is gradually raised to the 
boiling-point. After boiling gently for a short time, 
and when sufficient logwood has been absorbed by the 
fibre, take the articles out and draw them through a 
cold, weak acetic acid bath. Then dry them without 
rinsing. 

B. Deep black. Pickle and mordant in the same 
manner as given under A, but use instead of the last 
hot water-bath a very weak, warm soda-bath. 

Dyeing. Prepare a hot, weak logwood-bath, work 
the garments, etc., in it for one-quarter of an hour, take 
them out and enter them cold in a fresh bath of 4 lbs. 
of logwood. Then, whilst constantly working them, 
raise the temperature of the bath to boiling, then take 
out, rinse, and — 

Treat with chlwine, the object of which is to remove 
an excess of coloring-matter. Prepare a water-bath of 
from 145° to 167° F., and add about 1 pint to 1 quart 
of Javelle water — to be described later on. Work the 
silk in this bath for some time, until it appears deep 
black when drawn through a clean, cold water-bath. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 127 

Now rinse several times, let stand in a water-bath for 
some time, and dry. 

Special care is required in treating the garments 
with chlorine, since, if too much Javelle water is added, 
the color becomes too meagre, rendering redyeing neces- 
sary. 

C. English iron-black. Pickle as given under A. 
Mordanting. Boil the silk, with the assistance of 

steam, in an English-iron bath of 2° Be. (see below) in 
a wooden vessel for ten to fifteen minutes, then rinse 
well, and — 

Dye w^ith logw T ood and Castile soap, as given under 
A. Then treat with a special chlorine solution, the 
mode of treatment being the same as given under B. 

D. With fustic or quercitron. After cleaning and, if 
necessary, pickling without turmeric, the garments, etc., 
are placed in a nitrate of iron bath of 8° Be. for half an 
hour, then taken out and exposed to the air for half an 
hour. Now rinse thoroughly and prepare a bath which 
contains the decoction of 1 \ lbs. of fustic or of 1 lb. of 
quercitron. Work the garments in this bath at from 
100° to 140° F. for half an hour. Then take them out 
and dye in a logwood bath of 4 lbs. of logwood from 
warm to hot. Rinse and treat with chlorine, as given 
under B. 

Chlorine solution. The chlorine solutiou (Javelle 
water) for iron-black is prepared as follows : Dissolve 
10 lbs. of chloride of lime and 20 lbs. of soda in 75 
quarts of hot water in a wooden vessel. Let the solu- 
tion clarify for about an hour and keep the clear solu- 
tion in well-stoppered glass balloons. 



128 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Chlorine solution for English black. Dissolve 10 lbs. 
of chloride of lime, 15 lbs. of crystallized soda, and 
20 lbs. of Glauber's salt in 75 quarts of hot water. 
Let the solution clarify and keep the clear solution in 
well-stoppered glass balloons. 

Nitrate of iron. To 20 lbs. of nitric acid add in 
small quantities 4 lbs. of pure iron, for instance, small 
nails, iron filings, etc. When all is dissolved acid 
7 quarts of water. After cooling, the clear solution is 
ready for use. A tall stoneware pot should be used for 
preparing the solution. 

English iron. Dissolve with the assistance of heat 
20 lbs. of sulphate of iron, 4 lbs. of crude argol, 
and 4 lbs. of Milestone in 10 quarts of water. 

2. Dark brown (5 lbs.). For this color pickling with 
nitric acid in the same manner as given for black under 
1 A is also of advantage. 

A. Prepare a bath acidulated with 3J ozs. of sul- 
phuric acid and containing 3f ozs. of aniline-orange 
No. 2 (medium) and 8J ozs. of indigo-carmine or pensde 
lake in solution. In this bath dye the garments, etc., 
working them constantly and gradually raising the tem- 
perature to 190° F., and eventually to gentle boiling. 
Then finish according to the shade desired with aniline 
fast brown, pensee lake, and azo-yellow. Rinse. 

B. After pickling the silk is mordanted in a nitrate 
of iron bath of 2° Be. for half an hour, then rinsed and 
drawn through a hot water-bath. 

Dye in a bath of from 89° to 100° F., which besides 
1 lb. of archil contains the decoctions of 3 lbs. of 
fustic, 1 lb. of Brazilwood, and, according to the dark 
tone of the color to be dyed, from 5 ozs. to 1 lb. of 



DYEING GARMENTS. 129 

logwood. Work thoroughly, gradually raising the 
temperature to 195° F., and eventually to boiling. 
Then take out and rinse. 

C. Dye yellow in a bath which contains 8 ozs. of 
annotta and 5 ozs. of calcined soda. Heat gradually to 
167° F. and add to the bath 3 J ozs. of sulphuric acid. 
Work the silk in this bath for ten minutes. Then 
mordant the garments in an alum-bath of 14 ozs. of 
alum heated to 100° F. for three to six hours. Rinse 
and dye in decoctions of 1 lb. of fustet, 1J lbs. log- 
wood, and 2 lbs. Brazilwood. Enter the garments at 
100° F. and dye to 190° F., and eventually to gentle 
boiling. Then take out and rinse. 

D. Add to a water-bath of 122° F. a clear solution 
of J lb. of yellow catechu and 2 lbs. red catechu, and 
work the garments, etc., in the bath for one-half to one 
hour. Then take them out, rinse, work them in a chro- 
mate of potassium bath, containing 2J ozs. of chromate 
of potassium, heated to 89° F., for half an hour and 
rinse. For a darker brown use a mordanting bath of 
7 ozs. of alum for one hour and dye in a " hand-heat" 
bath of decoction of logwood, fustic, and Brazilwood. 
Fustet may be substituted for fustic. 

3. Coffee-brown (5 lbs.). Prepare a bath of 5 lbs. 
turmeric, J lb. archil extract, J lb. indigo-carmine, 5 ozs. 
sulphuric acid, and 10 ozs. alum. When all is dissolved 
enter the garments at 145° F. Dye, with thorough 
working, until the bath has acquired a temperature 
of 190° F., though eventually it may also be brought 
to boiling. Then take out and rinse. 

Coffee-brown may also be dyed according to either of 
the directions given for dark brown, it being only 
9 



130 PRACTICAL, SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

necessary to increase the quantity of the yellow coloring- 
matter. 

4. Tobacco-brown (5 lbs.). A. Dye the silk in a 
bath which besides 2J ozs. sulphuric acid and 7 ozs. 
alum contains 2f ozs. azo-yellow, 1 oz. of orange No. 2 
(medium), and 2 J ozs. of pensee lake in solution. Enter 
warm, and gradually heat, with constant handling, to 
boiling. Rinse. 

B. Boil 3 lbs. of turmeric, 10 ozs. archil, If ozs. 
indigo-carmine, 10 ozs. alum, and 2J ozs. sulphuric acid, 
and add the whole to a bath of 145° F. Enter the 
garments, etc., and dye up at the boiling-point. 

5. Gold (5 lbs.). A. Dissolve 3f ozs. azo-yellow, 
f oz. orange No. 2 (medium), -| oz. pensee lake, 5J ozs. 
alum, and 3J ozs. sulphuric acid, and dye the silk in 
the bath heated to from 145° to 200° F. 

B. Boil in a water-bath 3 lbs. turmeric, f oz. archil 
extract, J oz. sulphate of indigo, 14 ozs. alum, and 
If ozs. sulphuric acid. Allow the bath to cool to about 
167° P., enter the garments and work them until the 
dye has been uniformly absorbed and the temperature 
of the bath raised to 200° F. Then take out and rinse. 

6. Bordeaux (5 lbs.). A. Prepare a bath which con- 
tains the following in solution : 4J ozs. of sulphuric 
acid, 2 J ozs. acid fuchsine, If ozs. fast red, \ oz. indigo- 
carmine. Enter the garments at 145° and work them 
for about half an hour up to boiling, when they are 
finished. 

B. Dissolve If ozs. each of aniline-bordeaux B and 
fast red, \ oz. of acid violet 6B, 3f ozs. sulphuric acid, 
and 8 ozs. alum. Enter the garments, etc., at 145° F., 
and dye, with thorough working up to 200° F. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 131 

7. Garnet (5 lbs.). A. Bath: Sulphuric acid 3 J ozs., 
ponceau 3R 6 ozs., indigo-carmine 1 oz. Treatment 
the same as Bordeaux. 

B. Dissolve in a kettle 4| ozs. of brilliant ponceau, 1 
oz. fast red, and J oz. pale blue, and add 2J ozs. sul- 
phuric acid. Enter the articles and dye in the usual 
manner up to boiling. 

8. Ponceau (5 lbs.). A. The bath consists of the 
solution of 5J ozs. saccharic acid and If ozs. each of 
sulphuric acid and brilliant ponceau 2R. Dissolve well 
and dye up to boiling. 

B. Dissolve 8 ozs. each of saccharic acid and tin salt, 
1J ozs. sulphuric acid, If ozs. ponceau 3R, and f oz. 
ponceau G. Dye in the same manner as A. 

C Bright red. Mordant the silk articles in the tin 
mordant (given below) at 3° Be. for 12 hours, then take 
out and rinse. Now boil 26 ozs. of cochineal twice and 
pour both decoctions into a wooden vessel. When the 
dye-bath has acquired a temperature of 134° F., work 
the mordanted articles in it for some time, and then 
allow them to remain for six or eight hours. Then 
take out and rinse. 

Tin mordant. Fill a glazed pot one-half or three- 
quarters full with 4 lbs. of hydrochloric acid and 1 lb. 
of nitric acid, and gradually dissolve in the mixture 12 
ozs. of pure tin. 

9. Cardincd (5 lbs.). A. The bath consists of 5J ozs. 
of saccharic acid, If ozs. sulphuric acid, 2 J ozs. brilliant 
ponceau, and J oz. genuine red. Dissolve well and dye 
in the usual manner from 145° F. to boiling. 

B. Dissolve 2J ozs. diamond fuchsine and 8 ozs. 
turmeric. Dye at from 145° to 167° F. 



132 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

10. Scarlet (5 lbs.). Dissolve 8 ozs. of saccharic acid, 
1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and If ozs. of ponceau G. Enter 
the garments, etc., at 145° F., and dye, with thorough 
working, until the bath has acquired a temperature of 
200° F. 

11. Cream (5 lbs.). The articles, after passing through 
a hot saccharic acid bath, are dyed, without acid, in a 
very pure water-bath of from 100° to 167° F., which 
contains 6J drachms of pale yellow in solution. For a 
cream without a greenish tinge, add \ to 1 drachm of 
orange. 

12. Ivory (5 lbs.). Treat in the same manner as 
cream. The dye-bath consists of 9J drachms of pale 
yellow and 1J drachms of orange No. 2. 

13. Rose-color (5 lbs.). A. After passing the silk 
through a hot saccharic acid bath, dye in a neutral bath 
— i. e., without acid— at from 122° to 167° F. The 
solution consists, according to the tone desired, of from 
5| drachms to 1 oz. eosine (yellowish or bluish). 

For a rose-color of a more yellowish tinge than pro- 
duced by eosine, add a small quantity (J to 1 drachm) 
of pale yellow. 

B. Dye the garments, etc., in a neutral bath of 122° 
F., with from 2| to 8 drachms of diamond fuchsine I\ 

C. Dye in a neutral bath at from 145° to 167° F., 
with from 2 \ to 1 1 drachms of safranine. 

14. Salmon (5 lbs.). Treat the same as rose-color A, 
but add more pale yellow. 

15. Carail{b lbs.). Pass the articles through a sac- 
charic acid bath, and dye in a neutral bath at from 122° 
to 167° F., with 1 oz. each of eosine (yellowish) and 
pale yellow. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 133 

16. Pale blue, del (5 lbs.). A. Work the silk in a 
clean bath, to which 4J drachms of water-soluble, super- 
fine aniline pale blue have been added, for J hour at 
190° F. Then take it out and add to the bath 2 J ozs. 
of sulphuric acid. Now return the articles to the bath, 
and after working them for \ hour, take them out and 
draw them through a cold water-bath. 

B. {Alkaline blue.) Dissolve in a bath 1J ozs. of 
alkaline blue 6B, and 8 ozs. of borax or 10 ozs. of 
soda. Enter the garments, etc., at 100° F., and while 
thoroughly working them, heat the bath to 167° F. 
Then take them out and prepare a fresh cold bath, to 
which add 5J ozs. of sulphuric acid. In this bath 
work the silk for \ hour, take out and rinse. 

17. Marine-blue (5 lbs.). A. Prepare a bath, to which 
add 3J ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 ozs. alum, 5 J ozs. indigo- 
carmine, and 8J drachms marine-blue I a . Dye the 
garments, etc., in this bath at 190° F., take them out 
and add to the bath 3 J ozs. pensee lake and 8 J drachms 
marine-blue. Dye, heating up to the boiling-point, 
until the coloring-matter has been uniformly absorbed. 

For a marine-blue with a less reddish tinge (admiral- 
blue), use less aniline marine-blue and more indigo- 
carmine. 

B. Dissolve 14 ozs. alum, 2 J ozs. sulphuric acid, 12 \ 
ozs. indigo-carmine, and If ozs. archil extract. Enter 
the garments, etc., and dye at 190° F. 

C. Steep the silk for two hours in a bath consisting 
of a solution of 2 lbs. alum. Take out, rinse, and dye 
in a decoction of from 1 to 2 lbs. logwood at from 167° 
to 195° F. 



134 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

18. Heliotrope (5 lbs). A. Dye the silk in a bath of 
2J ozs. sulphuric acid, 5| drachms acid violet 6B, and 
8J drachms acid violet R up to 167° F. According to 
whether the heliotrope is to be bluish or reddish, use a 
larger quantity of the first or the latter coloring-matter. 
If a dull shade is desired, add orange or azo-yellow. 

B. Mordant in an alum bath of 10 ozs. alum for two 
hours, and dye in a warm logwood bath of 7 ozs. logwood. 

19. Prune (5 lbs.). Bath : 2 J ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 J 
drachms genuine red, and If ozs. acid violet 6B. 

Dye according to directions given under 18 A, and 
shade according to sample : for dull tones with orange, 
for clear tones with acid fuchsine and acid violet. 

20. Gensdarme (5 lbs.). A. Dye in a bath to which 
2 J grammes sulphuric acid aud the solutions of 14 
drachms water-soluble, superfine pale blue and 6J 
drachms acid green have been added, up to 195° F. 

The same shade may also be produced with indigo- 
carmine, turmeric, and alum. 

B. Dissolve 4 ozs. indigo-carmine, 8 drachms azo- 
yellow, 8 ozs. alum, and 1 J ozs. sulphuric acid, and dye 
up to boiling. 

C Dissolve 1 \ ozs. alkaline blue 6B and 1 J ozs. borax, 
and move the articles in the bath for one-quarter hour, 
gradually raising the temperature to 167° F. Then 
dye in a fresh bath with 3| drachms picric acid and 3J 
ozs. sulphuric acid at 200° F. 

21. Peacock-blue (5 lbs.). A. Dissolve in a bath 14 
drachms water-soluble, superfine pale blue and 2f 
drachms acid green. Dye the articles in the hot bath, 
and eventually shade, according to sample, with both 
coloring-matters at 200° F. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 135 

B. Work the silk for one-quarter hour in a bath 
containing 1J ozs. alkaline blue 6B and 1J ozs. borax. 
Then dye up at 195° F. in a fresh bath with 2J drachms 
picric acid. 

22. Steel-blue (5 lbs.). Dissolve If ozs. alkaline blue 
6B and 4 ozs. soda, and move the garments in it for 
half an hour, raising the temperature to 167° F. Then 
dye up at 200° F. in a fresh bath with 14 ozs. indigo- 
residue, 2J ozs. sulphuric acid, and 8 ozs. alum. 

23. Gray-blue (5 lbs.). Dye the silk in a bath which 
contains 2 J ozs. sulphuric acid, 14 drachms water-soluble, 
superfine pale blue, and 8J drachms extra-superfine ani- 
line-gray. Work the garments, gradually raising the 
temperature to 200° F. Shade, if necessary, according 
to sample, with both coloring-matters and pensee lake 
(or indigo-carmine), orange, and fast brown. 

24. Vesuve {dull fiery tones) (5 lbs.). Prepare the bath 
with 3 J ozs. sulphuric acid and solutions of 1^ ozs. 
orange Xo. 2 (medium), 5 ozs. ponceau 3R, and 14 
drachms each of indigo-carmine (or pensee lake) and azo- 
yellow. Dye up nearly to boiling. For orange and 
ponceau 3R, ponceau G or brilliant ponceau may be 
substituted. 

25. Siam (5 lbs.). Dissolve in the bath 5 ozs. orange 
No. 2 (medium) and 1J ozs. of pensee lake, and add 2J 
ozs. of sulphuric acid. Dye up at 200° F. 

26. Silver-gray (5 lbs.). A. Dissolve in the bath 1 J 
ozs. sulphuric acid, 1J drachms acid violet R, and 8 J 
drachms of aniline-gray, superfine extra. Dye at from 
167° to 195° F. 

B. Work the garments for J hour in a weak nitrate 
of iron-bath, the rust particles of which have been pre- 



136 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

cipitated with a little sulphuric acid. Rinse well, and 
dye in a warm bath with a little logwood and very little 
Brazilwood. 

27. Vieux-rose (5 lbs.). Dye the silk up to 195° F. 
in a bath containing 2J ozs. sulphuric acid, 5J drachms 
indigo-carmine or pensee lake, and 14 ozs. ponceau G. 
It may also be shaded, according to sample, with azo- 
yellow, orange, fast red, and pensee lake or acid violet. 

28. Beige (5 lbs.). Sulphuric acid 2J ozs., orange 
No. 2 (medium) and pensee lake, each 8J drachms. 

For yellow beige, azo-yellow as well as fast brown, 
etc., may be used. Dye in the usual manner. 

29. Gray (5 lbs.). A. Bath : 2J ozs. sulphuric acid 
and 1 J ozs. aniline-gray, extra superfine. Dye at 195° 
F. and eventually shade with a little orange or fast 
brown. 

B. Move the articles for 10 minutes in a cold bath 
which contains as a mordant 1 oz. of nitrate of iron and 
2 J drachms of tin salt. Rinse thoroughly and dye in a 
bath of 167° F. to which a decoction of 8 ozs. of f 
logwood has been added. 

30. Bright green (5 lbs.). Azo-yellow 1 J ozs., acid 
green 14 drachms, sulphuric acid 2 \ ozs. Dye until 
the green has been uniformly absorbed, eventually 
boiling gently for a short time. 

31. May green (5 lbs.). Sulphuric acid 2J ozs., azo- 
yellow If ozs., acid-green 14 drachms, and orange Xo. 2 
2 drachms. Dye as given under 30. 

32. Chartreuse {pale yellow-green) (5 lbs.). Sulphuric 
acid 3 J ozs., azo-yellow 2 J ozs., acid green 11 drachms. 
Dye according to directions given under 30 (bright 
green). 






DYEING GAKMENTS. 137 

33. Pale green (5 lbs.). Mordant the garments, etc., 
in an alum-bath of If lbs. alum for six hours. Then 
rinse well and dye at a hand-heat in the decoction of 

2 lbs. dyer's weed (weld) neutralized with If ozs. argol. 

34. Green (5 lbs.). Mordant the garments in the 
solution of 2 lbs. alum for 24 hours. Then rinse and 
dye at a hand-heat in the dyer's weed-bath. When the 
garments show a full yellow color take them out and 
add to the bath 8 ozs. indigo-carmine. Return the 
garments to the bath and work them till the bath 
boils ; then take them out and dry. 

35. Cresson {dull yellow-green) (5 lbs.). Sulphuric 
acid 3 J ozs., acid green 1J ozs., azo-yellow If ozs., 
orange G 6 J drachms, aniline-gray, extra superfine, 1J 
ozs. Dissolve all in a bath and dye the articles in it 
till they appear uniformly colored ; finally boil gently 
for a short time. 

36. Moss-green (5 lbs.). A. Dissolve 2\ ozs. sul- 
phuric acid, 1^ ozs. acid green, 1 oz. azo-yellow, and 8 
drachms orange G. Dye up to boiling. 

B. Dissolve If ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 ozs. alum, 1 lb. 
turmeric, 14 drachms indigo-carmine, and 5 \ drachms 
archil extract. Enter the articles and work them till 
they have boiled for one-quarter of an hour ; then rinse. 

37. Russia green (5 lbs.). A. Sulphuric acid 4^ ozs., 
azo-yellow and acid green, each If ozs., orange No. 2 

3 drachms, indigo-carmine If ozs., or, in place of the 
latter, 8 drachms aniline-nigrosine. Dye as given 
under 36. 

B. Sulphuric acid 3 \ ozs., alum 10 ozs., indigo- 
carmine or pensee lake 8 ozs., turmeric 2 lbs. Darken 
with 8 ozs. archil. Dye as above. 



138 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

38. Olive (5 lbs.). A. Sulphuric acid 3J ozs., azo- 
yellow 2 \ ozs., acid-green and pensee lake, each \\ ozs., 
and orange No. 2 1^ ozs. Dye in the usual manner. 

B. Sulphuric acid 3J ozs., alum 1 lb., turmeric 2J 
lbs., pensee lake 7 ozs., archil 1 lb. 

C. Mordant the garments in an alum-bath of 2 lbs. 
alum for 12 hours. Einse and dye to 195° F. in a 
decoction of 2 lbs. fustic, 1 lb. Brazilwood, and 1J lbs. 
logwood. 

39. Cinnamon-brown (5 lbs.). Sulphuric acid 1\ ozs., 
azo-yellow 1 oz., fast brown h\ drachms, indigo-carmine 
6J drachms. Dye up to the boiling-point. 

40. Pensee (5 lbs.). A. Dissolve in a neutral bath 1 
oz. methyl-violet 5B, and dye the garments, working 
them thoroughly, to 167° F. 

B. Sulphuric acid 2 \ ozs., acid -violet 6B 1 oz. and 
acid violet E 5 J drachms. Dye to 195° F. 

41. Yellow (5 lbs.). A. Sulphuric acid 2 \ ozs., azo- 
yellow 14 drachms. Dye to 200° F. 

B. Mordant in an alum-bath of 1J lbs. of alum for 
12 hours. Einse and dye at a hand-heat in a decoc- 
tion of 2 lbs. dyer's weed (weld). 

42. Mandarin (5 lbs.). Sulphuric acid 2 J ozs., orange 
No. 2 8 drachms, azo-yellow 1 oz. Dye to 200° F. 

42. Fancy colors and all other intermediate tones. As 
fancy colors, may be designated all tones which deviate 
from the regular ones. They are produced as follows : 
As ground-colors in dyeing, red, yellow, and blue are 
used, they being the so-called complementary colors of 
which all other tones consist. 

Now according to the preponderance of one of these 



DYEING GARMENTS. 139 

ground-tones, in the desired color, the articles are first 
dyed with it and shaded with the others. 

As materials for the ground-tones may be recom- 
mended, for yellow: Azo-yellow, Martin's yellow, tur- 
meric ; for red: Fast red, ponceau, fast brow r n, and also 
acid fuchsine ; for yellow and red together : Orange ; 
for blue : Indigo-carmine, pensee lake, or aniline-blue, 
marine-blue ; for blue and red together : Aniline acid 
violet. For the aniline colors the bath is acidulated 
with sulphuric acid, and for the other coloring-matters 
with it and alum. 

Genuine velvet is dyed in the same dye-baths used for 
silk garments, but greater care is required in the treat- 
ment. Baste around the separate pieces a strip of stuff 
two fingers wide, by which the velvet is worked during 
the entire operation. When entering the articles in the 
bath, place the velvet side down so that in pushing down 
the wrong side receives the pressure of the hand or stick. 
After dyeing, immediately apply to the wrong side a 
solution of gum or gelatine, and dry. As regards the 
rest, it is treated like cleansed velvet. 

Dyeing Woollen Garments and Fabrics. 

The affinity of the wool-fibre for coloring- matters is 
about the same as that of the silk-fibre, both being of 
animal origin. Hence all directions given for silk may 
also be used for wool, the chief difference being that the 
dye-bath must be provided with bisulphate of sodium, 
which opens the fibre of the wool. Dyeing black, how- 
ever, is an exception, it differing with wool entirely from 
silk. 



140 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

Bisulphate of sodium is imparted to the dye-bath by 
the addition of sulphate of sodium (Glauber's salt) 
and sulphuric acid. However in modern times argol — 
from 1 5 to 20 per cent, of the weight of the fabric — is 
only used. 

In the main this branch of dyeing, however, possesses 
its own characteristics, which show themselves especially 
in fulled fast colors. In garment dyeing these colors 
are demanded only for cloth articles. For the intimate 
combination of the wool-fibre with the mordant and 
coloring-matter a longer boiling heat is also required. 

Washing. The garments are separately examined, 
and the soiled places brushed with a solution of yellow 
barrel soap. Other stains, such as stearine, wax, oil- 
paint, petroleum, etc., are removed by the application 
of various agents, for instance, alcohol for wax and 
stearine, fusel oil for oil-paint, and also for stearine and 
wax, benzine for petroleum, etc. Then work the articles 
in a quite concentrated soda-bath of 100° to 122° F. 
for 20 minutes, and rinse well. 

A more reliable plan is to wash the garments intended 
for colors in a warm soap-bath upon the washboard be- 
fore working them in the soda-bath. 

1. Black (22 lbs.). A. Naphthol-black. Boil 4|lbs. 
argol, 21 ozs. naphthol-black, and If ozs. acid green in 
the kettle until all is thoroughly dissolved, and then 
cool the bath to 145° F. Enter the articles broad and 
boil, while working them thoroughly, for f hour. 
Take out and rinse well. 

B. Imperial black. Boil 4f lbs. of imperial black 
and 8f ozs. of saccharic acid in the kettle until the im- 
perial black is dissolved, which requires J hour or more. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 141 

Then cool with cold water, enter the articles and boil, 
while thoroughly working them, for f hour. Then 
take them out and dissolve in the same bath 26J ozs. of 
soda. Now, without further heating the dye-bath, 
re-enter the garments and handle them for five minutes 
longer. Then take them out, rinse, and treat them at a 
hand-heat with chlorine solution. Finally rinse well. 
The chlorine fluid used for the purpose is prepared as 
follows : Dissolve 10 lbs. chloride of lime and 20 lbs. 
soda in 300 quarts hot water, set aside to clarify, and 
use the clear fluid. 

C. Potash-black. Boil the articles for one hour in 
a kettle containing 6 ozs. chromate of potassium, 2|- 
ozs. bluestone, 7 ozs. red argol, and 5J ozs. sulphuric 
acid. Dye with a decoction of 6f lbs. logwood, boil- 
ing for three-quarters of an hour. Treat with chlorine 
solution as given under "B Imperial black." 

D. Beaver-black. Boil the garments for 1J hours in 
a bath which contains in solution 2| lbs. copperas, 3J 
ozs. bluestone, 10J ozs. red argol, and 14 drachms 
alum. Then take them out, and after cooling let them 
lie till the next day. Then rinse and dye in a bath in 
which 7f lbs. logwood and 2 lbs. fustic have been boiled 
for one hour. Boil the garments in this bath for one 
hour, handling them thoroughly, then take them out and 

-rinse. They are now passed through a warm bath 
slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 

E. Boil in the kettle 26J ozs. of logwood extract, 23 
ozs. argol, and 17 J ozs. bluestone, until all is dissolved. 
Cool the bath, enter the articles, and boil for 1 J hours. 
Take out, pass them through a cold sulphuric acid bath 
and rinse. 



142 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

2. Dark brown (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve in the kettle 
5J ozs. orange No. 2 (rnediuni), 2f ozs. fast brown, 26J 
ozs. indigo extract, and 4§ lbs. argol. Cool the bath, 
enter the articles, boil, with constant working, for one 
hour, take out and rinse. 

B. Dissolve in the bath 2^ lbs. Glauber's salt, 7 ozs. 
sulphuric acid, 2 T 1 ^- lbs. turmeric, 7 ozs. fast brown, and 
26J ozs. indigo extract. Cool the bath, enter the gar- 
ments, boil, with constant working, three-quarters of an 
hour, take out and rinse. 

It may here be remarked that rinsing is always neces- 
sary, except when otherwise specified. 

C. Archil-brown. Boil in the kettle for 10 minutes 
26J ozs. alum, 12J ozs. argol, 7 ozs. sulphuric acid, 4| 
lbs. turmeric, 6f lbs. archil or 26J ozs. archil extract, 
and 2 1 1 q lbs. indigo extract or 21 ozs. acid indigo. Cool 
the bath, enter the garments, and boil 1 J hours. 

Indigo sulphate. Triturate 1 lb. of Bengal indigo in 
a mortar so as to pulverize it as much as possible. 
Then bring 4 lbs. of fuming sulphuric acid into a tall 
stoneware pot and place the latter in lukewarm water or 
in the sun. Now add at intervals of 10 minutes a 
spoonful of indigo to the acid. Should the acid not 
come to a boil during this operation, add some common 
salt. After a few hours, when all the indigo is dissolved, 
add 2 or 3 quarts of water and stir, when the indigo is 
ready for use. 

D. Chrome-brown, also for cloth articles. Dissolve in 
the kettle 7 ozs. chromate of potassium, 3J ozs. blue- 
stone, 7 ozs. argol, and 4J ozs. sulphuric acid. Enter the 
articles, work them, and let boil for one hour. Then take 
them out, let them lie till the next day, rinse and dye. 



DYEING GAKMENTS. 143 

Boil in the kettle for half an hour 39J ozs. fustic or 
fustet, 4f lbs. Brazilwood, and 17J ozs. logwood. Dye 
the articles in the boiling bath for half an hour. 

E. JVood-broion. Dissolve in the kettle 12^ ozs. 
chloride of tin and 17i ozs. argol, and boil the garments 
in it for one hour. The next day rinse and dye for one 
hour in a boiling decoction of 2-J- lbs. fustic, 4f lbs. 
Brazilwood, and 17J ozs. logwood. 

F. Wood-brown for cloth articles, perfectly fast Dye 
pale blue in the pastel-vat and rinse. Then boil in the 
kettle for one and one-half hours with 39 J ozs. alum, 10J 
ozs. argol, 5 ozs. Milestone, 26J ozs. fustic. Take out, 
cool and let lay for twenty-four hours. Then rinse and 
dye in 6| lbs. madder, 26 J ozs. sumac powder, and 8f ozs. 
logwood. Boil for one hour. For dark brown, clve in 
the same bath with 17 J ozs. copperas. The dye-woods 
are tied in bags and previously boiled in the bath for 
half an hour. 

G. Boil in the kettle for half an hour 26| ozs. sanders, 
17 J ozs. sumac, 21- lbs. each of turmeric and Brazil- 
wood, and 17 J ozs. logwood. Take out the dye-woods 
and acid to the bath 6 ozs. bluestone, 12 \ ozs. argol, 
and 3J ozs. sulphuric acid. Boil the articles in the bath 
for one and one-half hours, working them thoroughly. 
Then take them out, rinse, beat, and rinse again. 

H. Sanders-brown, Boil in the kettle for half an 
hour 6f lbs. sanders, 4f lbs. sumac, 3J lbs. fustic, and 
2^ lbs. logwood, and then take out the dye-woods. 
Boil the articles in this bath for two hours, then take 
them out, and, for darkening the color, add to the same 
bath 12^ o.zs. copperas. Return the articles to the bath, 



144 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

boil them gently for one-quarter of an hour, while work- 
ing them, and rinse thoroughly. 

J. Boil for one hour in 8f ozs. chromate of potassium 
and 5 J ozs. sulphuric acid. Take out and dye in a bath 
of 5J lbs. sanders, 4| lbs. fustic, and 3J lbs. sumac. 
Boil for one hour. 

3. Coffee-brown (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve 3J lbs. argol, 
2J ozs. sulphuric acid, 2-J- lbs. turmeric, 7 ozs. orange 
No. 2, and 1 7 J ozs. pensee lake, cool the bath, enter the 
articles, and boil them for one hour, working them 
constantly. 

B. Dissolve 17 J ozs. alum and 8f ozs. argol and a 
mixture of 2 ozs. each of tin salt and sulphuric acid. 
When all is dissolved, enter the goods and boil for one 
and one-half hours. Take out, let them cool and allow 
to lie till the next day. Then rinse and dye in 6f lbs. 
madder and 2i lbs. logw T ood. Boil for one and one- 
quarter hours. 

C. For doth articles. Boil the articles for one and 
one-half hours in a bath containing 5J lbs. sanders and 
a decoction of 7f lbs. fustic, 3J lbs. sumac, and 26J 
ozs. argol, and take them out. Then add to the same 
bath 21 ozs. copperas, return the articles to the bath, 
and boil gently for one-quarter of an hour. Rinse, 
beat, and rinse again. 

By increasing the quantity of yellow coloring-matter, 
the receipts given under 2 for dark brown may also be 
used for coffee-brown. 

4. Bordeaux (22 lbs.). Boil in a kettle for five 
minutes until all is dissolved, 4f lbs. argol, 5 J ozs. Bor- 
deauxB, 14 drachms fast ponceau B and 11 \ drachms 
indigo-carmine. Cool the bath, enter the garments and 



DYEING GARMENTS. 145 

then boil for three-quarters of an hour, working them 
thoroughly. 

B. Dissolve in the bath 5\ ozs. sulphuric acid, 26J 
ozs. alum, 3J ozs. brilliant red, and 5J ozs. fast red. 
Enter the garments and boil for half an hour. 

C. For cloth articles. Dissolve in the bath 8f ozs. 
chromate of potassium, 4J ozs. Milestone, 3J ozs. argol, 
and 2f ozs. sulphuric acid. Cool off the bath, enter 
the garments, and boil for one hour. Then rinse and 
dye at a boil for three-quarters of an hour with a 
decoction of 5 J lbs. Brazilwood and 7 ozs. logwood. 

5. Red-brown (22 lbs). A. Boil 2| lbs. alum, 17J 
ozs. argol, 4 J ozs. sulphuric acid, 3 J lbs. cudbear, 26 J 
ozs. turmeric, and 2\ ozs. indigo-carmine. Cool off the 
bath, enter the garments, etc., and boil for one and a 
half hours w T ith thorough handling. 

B. For cloth articles. Boil the articles for one hour 
in a bath of 8f ozs. chromate of potassium, 5 J ozs. each 
of Milestone and argol, and 4^ ozs. sulphuric acid. 
Rinse, and dye in a bath of 6f lbs. Brazilwood and 8f 
ozs. fustic. Boil for one hour. 

6. Marine-blue (22 lbs.). Dissolve in the kettle 3J 
lbs. alum, 7 ozs. sulphuric acid, 3J ozs, indigo-carmine, 
and If ozs. marine-blue B. Cool off the bath, enter the 
garments, and boil for three-quarters of an hour, work- 
ing them thoroughly. Then to prevent the color from 
rubbing off, pass the garments, etc, through a w T eak 
chlorine solution and rinse. Then to brighten the blue, 
pass them through a sulphuric acid bath and rinse once 
more. 

B. Dissolve 4f lbs, argol and 3J ozs. aniline dark 
10 



146 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER, 

blue B, and boil the garments in the bath for half an 
hour, working them thoroughly. 

C. For cloth articles. Dissolve 4f lbs. argol, 3 J ozs. 
French blue (bleu de Indien), and 5 J drachms naphthol- 
black. Boil the articles in the bath for half an hour, 
rinse, and draw through a weak chlorine bath. Rinse, 
pass through a sulphuric acid bath, and rinse once more. 

D. Dissolve in the kettle 3 J ozs. each of alkaline blue 
R and borax. Work the garments in this bath at from 
167° to 190° F. for half an hour, and then dye at a 
boil for half an hour in a fresh bath of 5^ ozs. sulphuric 
acid, 17J ozs. alum, 2 J ozs. indigo-carmine, and 1J ozs. 
marine-blue R. 

E. For cloth articles. Dissolve 2\ lbs. alum, 7 ozs. 
sulphuric acid, b\ ozs. indulin, and If ozs. indigo-car- 
mine, and boil the articles three-quarters of an hour, 
working them thoroughly. Then rinse, draw through 
a Aveak chlorine bath, rinse, pass through a sulphuric 
acid bath, and rinse once more. 

F. For cloth articles. Dissolve b\ ozs. chromate of 
potassium and 17J ozs. argol, and boil the articles in the 
bath for one hour. Then rinse and dye at a boil for 
three-quarters of an hour in a bath which contains a 
decoction of 3^ lbs. logwood and If ozs. diamond- 
fuchsine. 

G. For cloth articles. Boil the articles for an hour and 
a half in a bath of 17J ozs. alum, 7 ozs. argol, If ozs. 
tin salt, and 3 J ozs. sulphuric acid. Then rinse and dye 
in a decoction of 3f lbs. logwood and as much methyl- 
violet as may be required. 

7. Ponceau (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve in the kettle 17J 
ozs. saccharic acid, 3| ozs. tin salt, and 5J ozs. each of 



DYEING GARMENTS. 147 

sulphuric acid and brilliant ponceau, and dye at a boil 
for half an hour. 

B. Dissolve in the kettle 2^ lbs. ground cochineal, 21 
ozs. saccharic acid, 14 ozs. tin salt, and If ozs. sulphuric 
acid, and boil the garments, etc., in the bath for one 
hour. 

C. Alizarine red, for cloth articles. Dissolve in the 
kettle 4f lbs. alum, 8f ozs. tartaric acid, 2 ozs. tin salt, 
and 3J ozs. chloride of tin. Cool off the bath, enter 
the articles, and boil for two hours. Then take them 
out, and after cooling let them lie from twelve to twenty- 
four hours. Then rinse and dye in a bath which contains 
7f lbs. madder. Enter at 145° F. and bring very slowly 
— in about an hour — to a boil. Then boil gently for 
one-quarter of an hour and take out. 

8. Bismarck (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve 7 ozs. sulphuric 
acid, 2\ lbs. alum, If ozs. orange No. 2, 14 drachms 
azo-yellow, and If ozs. pens^e lake. Enter the articles, 
dye up to the boiling-point, and let boil for half an hour 
longer. 

B. For cloth articles. Boil for one hour in a bath 
which contains in solution 2 \ lbs. alum, 12J ozs. argol, 
and 3J- ozs. each of bluestone and chromate of potas- 
sium. Dye in a fresh bath of 26 J ozs. madder and 8f 
ozs. logwood. Boil one hour. 

9. Bright blue (22 lbs.). A. Add to a clean bath 1 
oz. 6f drachms water-soluble aniline bright blue super- 
fine, and work the garments in it for half an hour, heat- 
ing to the boiling-point. Then take out the garments, 
add 10J ozs. sulphuric acid to the bath, return the gar- 
ments, let them gently boil one-quarter of an hour longer 
and take them out. 



148 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

B. Alkaline blue. Dissolve in a clean bath 5J ozs. 
alkaline blue B6 and 26 J ozs. soda, and dye the gar- 
ments at from 100° to 179° F. Then take them out 
and work them in a fresh cold bath containing 21 ozs. 
sulphuric acid for one-quarter of an hour. 

10. Gray (22 lbs.). A. Prepare a bath of 10 J ozs. 
sulphuric acid, 17J ozs. argol, and 7 ozs. aniline-gray 
extra superfine. Enter at 145° F., and dye at a boil 
for one-quarter of an hour. Finally shade with a little 
orange or fast brown. 

B. Boil in the kettle 26J ozs. alum, 14 ozs. argol, 5J 
ozs. sulphuric acid, 4J ozs. indigo-carmine, and 3f ozs. 
cudbear. Cool off the bath, enter the garments, and dye 
at a boil for one-quarter of an hour, working them 
thoroughly. 

C. For cloth articles. Dissolve in the bath 5J ozs. 
chromate of potassium, 3 J ozs. sulphuric acid, and 14 
ozs. argol, and boil the articles in it for one hour. 
Rinse, and dye in a fresh bath which contains a de- 
coction of 17 J ozs. of logwood and 5 \ ozs. archil, and 
finally also 3J ozs. fustic. Boil half an hour. 

11. Beige (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve in the bath 3| lbs. 
argol, If ozs. pensee lake, 8 J drachms azo-yellow, and 
1 oz. orange No. 2. For the latter two, 1 oz. 6J 
drachms orangeG may be substituted. Enter the arti- 
cles and boil, with thorough working, for half an 
hour. 

B. For cloth articles. Dissolve 5 \ ozs. chromate of 
potassium, If ozs. sulphuric acid, and 5 \ ozs argol, and 
in this mordant boil the articles for three-quarters of an 
hour. Rinse and dye in a fresh bath, to which a de- 
coction of 3J ozs. logwood has been added. If the beige 



DYEING GARMENTS. 149 

is to show a yellow tinge, a decoction of If to 3 J ozs. of 
fustic must also be added. 

12. Green (22 lbs.). A. Bright green. Dissolve 3J 
ozs. sulphuric acid, 14 ozs. alum, 3J ozs. azo-yellow, 
and 2 J ozs. acid green, and boil the articles in the bath 
for half an hour. 

B. Bright green. Dissolve 2f ozs. alkaline blue 6B 
and 5| ozs. borax. Work the garments in the bath at 
190° F. Dye in a bath containing 2 ozs. 1J drachms 
picric acid in solution and 6 ozs. sulphuric acid. Boil 
one-quarter of an hour. 

C. May green. Dissolve in the bath 3J ozs. sulphuric 
acid, 14 ozs. alum, 4 ozs. 6 J drachms azo-yellow, If ozs. 
acid green, as well as 2f drachms orange No. 2. Boil the 
garments, etc., in the bath for one-quarter of an hour. 

D. Chartreuse. Dissolve in the bath 3 J ozs. sulphuric 
acid, 14 ozs. alum, 7 ozs. azo-yellow, and 1 oz. 6f 
drachms acid green. Boil the articles in the bath for 
half an hour. 

E. For eloth articles. Dissolve 5 \ ozs. sulphuric acid, 
17J ozs. alum, and If ozs. tartaric acid, and boil the 
articles in the bath for one hour. Dye with a decoc- 
tion of 3^ lbs. fustic and a solution of 8f ozs. in 
indigo-carmine. With these two coloring-matters, used 
in varying proportions, all the shades desired may be 
produced. 

F. Cresson. Dissolve 4J- lbs. argol, 3J ozs. acid 
green, 7 ozs. azo-yellow, 14 drachms orange No. 2, and 
4 ozs. 6 J drachms of aniline-gray extra superfine. Boil 
the articles in the bath for half an hour. 

G. Russia green. * Dissolve 2\ lbs. alum, 5J ozs. 
sulphuric acid, 3 J ozs. azo-yellow (or If ozs. picric acid), 
7 ozs. indigo-carmine, 3 \ ozs. acid green, and 11 drachms 



150 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

marine-blue with a red tinge. Boil the garments, etc., 
in the bath for three-quarters of an hour. 

H. Russia green, for cloth articles. Dissolve 3J 
ozs. sulphuric acid, 3J ozs. chromate of potassium, and 
26 1 ozs. alum, and boil the articles in this mordant for 
one hour. Dye with 21 ozs. indigo-carmine and 2\ lbs. 
turmeric. Boil for half an hour, and eventually darken 
with 14 ozs. archil. 

13. Moss-green (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve 5J ozs. sul- 
phuric acid, 21 ozs. alum, 3 J ozs. acid green, 2 J ozs. 
azo-yellow, and 14 drachms orange, and boil the gar- 
ments in this bath for half an hour. 

B. Dissolve 4 ozs. 6| drachms sulphuric acid, 26f ozs. 
alum, 3J lbs. turmeric, 5J ozs. pensee lake, and 1 oz. 
archil extract. Enter the articles in the bath, and boil 
three-quarters of an hour. 

C. For cloth articles. Dissolve 3| ozs. chromate 
of potassium, 2 J ozs. sulphuric acid, and 17 J ozs. alum, 
and boil the articles in this bath for one hour. Dye 
with a decoction of 2\ lbs. fustic, 12J ozs. logwood, 
and 7 ozs. Brazilwood. Boil half an hour. 

14. Olive-green (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve 2^- lbs. alum, 
3 J ozs. sulphuric acid, 3 J ozs. azo-yellow, 2 J ozs. orange 
No. 2, and 5 \ ozs. acid green. Boil the garments in 
the bath for half an hour. 

B. Dissolve 4| lbs. argol, 5J lbs. turmeric, 17J ozs. 
indigo-carmine, and 14 drachms ponceau G, and boil 
the garments in the bath for three-quarters of an hour. 

C For cloth articles. Dissolve 3J lbs. alum, 8f ozs. 
argol, 2J ozs. sulphuric acid, and 4 ozs. 6 J drachms blue- 
stone, and boil the articles in the bath for one hour. 
Then dye in a decoction of 6f lbs. fustic, 17 J ozs. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 151 

Brazilwood, and 2^ lbs. logwood. Boil three-quarters 
of an hour. 

D. For cloth articles. Dissolve in the bath 4 ozs. 6| 
drachms chromate of potassium, If ozs. Milestone, and 
3J ozs. sulphuric acid, and boil the articles in it for one 
hour. Then rinse and dye in a decoction of 6f lbs. 
fustet, 17 J ozs. Brazilwood, and 2\ lbs. logwood. 
Boil one hour. 

15. Mode (22 lbs.). A. Boil in the kettle for one 
hour 17 J ozs. each of alum and argol, 3| ozs. sulphu- 
ric acid, 12 \ ozs. fustic, and 3f ozs. cudbear. Cool off 
the bath, enter the garments, work them while gradually 
heating to boiling, take them out, and rinse. 

B. Boil in the kettle for one-quarter of an hour 3J ozs. 
argol, 6 ozs. Milestone, 10J ozs. sumac, and 14 ozs. 
madder. After cooling the bath, enter the garments 
and work them, while heating to boiling. 

16. Bronze (22 lbs.). A. For cloth articles. Boil in 
the kettle 5J lbs. fustic, 2f lbs. sanders, and 2-J- lbs. 
sumac. Boil the articles in the bath for one and one- 
quarter hours. Then lift them out, let them cool, and 
add to the same bath 21 ozs. copperas and 7 ozs. blue- 
stone. Return the articles to the bath and, without 
firing the kettle, work them for half an hour. Rinse 
thoroughly. 

B. Dissolve in the kettle 17^ ozs. argol, 5^ ozs. picric 
acid, 7 ozs. archil, and 3J ozs. indigo-carmine. Boil 
the garments in the bath for three-quarters of an hour, 
moving them constantly. 

17. Prune (22 lbs.). Boil in the kettle 2£ lbs. argol, 
If ozs. sulphuric acid, 17J ozs. alum, 3^ lbs. archil, and 
17 J ozs. pensee lake. After cooling the bath, enter the 



152 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

garments and boil for one hour, working them con- 
stantly. 

18. Pensee (22 lbs.). Dissolve in the kettle 5J ozs. 
sulphuric acid, 17J ozs. alum, If ozs. acid violet R, and 
3J ozs. acid violet 6B. Enter the garments, work 
them while heating to boiling, and then let them gently 
boil for a short time. 

B. Add to the bath 3J ozs. methyl-violet B in solu- 
tion, and further 8f ozs. sulphurous acid and 8f ozs. 
wheat-starch, thoroughly mixed and diluted. Enter the 
garments at 145° F. and work them for a quarter of an 
hour at 200° F. Do not boil. 

C. For cloth articles. Dissolve in the kettle 17 J ozs. 
alum, 14 ozs. argol, 2 ozs. bluestone, and a mixture of 
2| ozs. each of sulphuric acid and tin salt. After cool- 
ing the bath, enter the garments, work them well to the 
boiling-point, and let them boil for one and one-half 
hours. Then take them out and after cooling let them 
lie from twelve to twenty-four hours. Then rinse and 
dye in a decoction of 3^ lbs. logwood and 2 \ ozs. each 
of nutgalls and cudbear. 

Powder the nutgalls and add them together with the 
cudbear to the kettle filled with the logwood decoction. 
Cool the bath off, enter the articles and work them for 
half an hour, gradually raising the temperature to 
boiling. 

19. Yellow (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve in the kettle 3 J 
ozs. sulphuric acid, 8f ozs. saccharic acid, and 3| ozs. 
azo-yellow, and work the articles in the bath at a boil 
for half an hour. 

For buttercup-yelloiv, add to the bath 5 J drachms 
orange G. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 153 

B. Dissolve in the kettle 8| ozs. each of chloride of 
tin and saccharic acid, 4 ozs. 6J drachms tin salt, and 
3h ozs. flavin. Enter the articles at 167° F. and boil 
them for one-quarter of an hour. 

C. For cloth articles. Work the articles in a decoc- 
tion of 6f lbs. fustic, 26 J ozs. sumac, 12^ ozs. alum, 3 J 
ozs. Milestone, and 17 J ozs. sanders, and boil them 
gently for 2 hours. 

Havana (22 lbs.). Work the garments for half an 
hour in a boiling bath containing 2-J- lbs. catechu in 
solution. Then treat them in the same manner, in a 
bath of 4 ozs. 6J drachms chromate of potassium at 
122° F., and for darkening in a bath of 3 J ozs. copperas. 
Rinse after each bath. 

21. All fancy colors more suitable for garments may be 
produced as follows : As a mordant for light colors, use 
1J per cent, of the weight of the fabric to be dyed of 
sulphuric acid and up to 5 per cent, of alum, or in place 
of the latter (for yellow and red shades) 2 per cent, sac- 
charic acid and 1 per cent, tin salt or chloride of tin. 
For intermediate and dark colors, 15 to 20 per cent, argol 
is used as a mordant. To the same bath add of tbe 
three ground-colors, yellow, red, blue, as much as may 
seem to be required from the appearance of the sample 
color. Add the principal color first and shade with the 
other two colors. During dyeing and shading maintain 
the temperature of the bath at 200° F. 

According to the brightness or dulness of the color, 
different coloring-matters are used for the three ground- 
colors. For yellow : Azo-yellow, flavin, azo-flavin, tur- 
meric, acid yellow, picric acid, etc. For red: Brilliant 
ponceau, ponceau, fast red, congo-red, acid fuchsine, 



154 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

archil, etc. For blue: Bright blue, marine-blue, indigo- 
carmine, pensee lake, and also nigrosine, the latter for 
darkening. For yellow and red together : Orange. For 
red and blue together : Violet. 

22. All fancy colors more suitable for cloth articles may 
be produced according to the following method : Mor- 
dant: Boil for one hour in \\ to 2 J per cent, of the 
weight of the fabric of chromate of potassium, and 4 
to 5 per cent, of argol, according to whether the color 
is to be light or dark. Then dye in a fresh bath with 
the three ground-colors; for yelloiv : Fustic, turmeric, 
dyer's weed (weld), fustet, etc. For red : Brazilwood, 
madder, archil, diamond- fuchsine, etc. For blue : Log- 
wood, indigo-carmine, indigo extract, pensee lake. 

A dyer experienced in shading will, according to the 
above described methods, be able to dye nearly all fancy 
colors upon ladies and gentlemen's apparel. 

23. To dye sheepskins. Sheepskins may be dyed all 
colors in a similar manner as wool, but the temperature 
of the bath should not exceed 167° F., a lower tem- 
perature being still better. Aniline colors being quite 
uniformly absorbed by the fibre at a low degree of heat, 
the directions prescribing their use are especially suitable 
for this purpose. Neutral aniline colors, if they pro- 
duce the desired shade, are to be preferred. 

The skin-side having lost its fat and tannin by 
washing and dyeing, it must be again provided with it 
after dyeing. This is effected as follows : After dyeing 
and thorough rinsing place the skin, while still wet, 
with the wool-side upon a clean board. Then carefully 
rub the skin-side with a handful of pulverized alum and 
half a handful of common salt, and let the skin lie in a 



DYEING GARMENTS. 155 

level position so that both salts may thoroughly soak in. 
Then dry at a moderate heat, and thoroughly work the 
skin by rubbing. If it should not become sufficiently 
soft by this manipulation, rub the skin-side with olive 
oil. 

For black the following directions are given : Place 
the skins in each of the following baths for one hour. 
First in a bath of acetate of iron of 4° Be., next in a 
very strong bath of copperas, then in a bath of 2\ lbs. 
sugar of lead, succeeded by a bath of 17 J ozs. chromate 
of potassium, and finally in a bath of very little water 
of ammonia. Then dry the skins and draw them through 
a warm soda-bath. Finally dye in a logwood-bath at 
122° F. 

Dyeing Cotton and Linen Garments and Fabrics, 

Tissues of cotton, linen, and other vegetable fibres 
generally contain a size derived from the animal and 
vegetable kingdoms, which fills or envelops the fibre, 
and thus impedes the uniform reception of the new 
coloring-matter. Before dyeing, the complete removal of 
these foreign substances becomes, therefore, necessary. 
Simple wetting or washing in a soda-bath is not suffi- 
cient for this purpose. A reliable method for the 
removal of the size is as follows : Boil 22 lbs. of the 
fabric with 3^ lbs. of calcined soda for one hour, rinse, 
then work it in a hot moderately acid sulphuric acid 
bath for 10 minutes, and rinse thoroughly. 

The affinity of the vegetable fibre for coloring-matters 
is generally feebler than that of silk or woollen. It has 
no inclination to combine directly with the coloring- 



156 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

matter, and has to be induced to do so by impregnation 
with a tannin. For further fixing the colors, mordants, 
which vary according to the character of the color to be 
dyed, are employed. 

1. Black (22 lbs.). A. Tie 6f lbs. of powdered sumac 
in sack-cloth, place it in a sieve or basket over an empty 
barrel and pour water of 190° F. over it. In this 
manner the best sumac extract is produced, that obtained 
by boiling the sumac being not so good for the colors. 

In place of sumac, one-seventh of its weight of sumac 
extract dissolved in water of 190° F. may be used. 
Place the fabrics in the hot sumac bath, and let them 
remain overnight. Then take them out, work them in 
an acetate of iron bath for half an hour, and afterwards 
allow them to remain in the bath for one and a half 
hours, working them several times in the meanwhile. 
Then take them out, wring and thoroughly rinse them. 
Now work them for one-quarter of an hour in a bath 
which contains 2 ozs. of chromate of potassium. Dye 
at a hand-heat in a bath of 6§- lbs. logwood and 21 lbs. 
fustic. Then work them thoroughly in a size prepared, 
by boiling together, 17 J ozs. wheat-starch, 17 J ozs. 
joiner's glue, 3J ozs. tallow or olive oil, and some log- 
wood extract. Then for the uniform distribution of the 
size, wring out uniformly, beat slightly, and dry. 

B. Place the fabrics overnight in a solution of 17J 
ozs. Milestone and 26J ozs. chromate of potassium, 
heated to a hand-heat. Then take out, wring, draw 
through water, and dye hot in a bath of 24- lbs. each of 
fustic and logwood. Take out and give two fresh log- 
wood baths. 

C. Work the fabrics for half an hour in a boiling 



DYEING GARMENTS. 157 

solution of 21 lbs. catechu, then take them out and handle 
them for one-quarter of an hour in a bath containing 17 J 
ozs. copperas. Now wring and pass through a bath con- 
taining 17J ozs. dissolved lime. Then rinse and dye in 
a bath consisting of a decoction of 84- lbs. logwood. 

D. Work the garments for one-quarter of an hour in 
a warm bath of 8f lbs. copperas, and then for ten minutes 
in a solution of 10 J ozs. chromate of potassium. Re- 
peat the same operations once more. Then work the 
garments in a hot bath containing a decoction of 6f 
lbs. logwood and 21 ozs. quercitron until they are black. 
Then take them out, add to the bath 4J ozs. linseed oil 
previously dissolved in some caustic lye (lime-lye and 
soda), and work the garments in the bath for one- 
quarter of an hour. 

E. For velvet. Work the articles for one-quarter of 
an hour in a medium strong solution of chloride of lime 
and soda (Javelle water), then take them out and give 
them a weak logwx)od-bath. Next w T ork them for one- 
quarter of an hour in a bath which contains a solution 
of 8J ozs. bluestone. Then rinse and give them an 
acetate of iron bath. Rinse again and draw through a 
weak soda-bath. Now give another logw r ood-bath, then 
an acetate of iron bath ; rinse thoroughly, and, if 
necessary, give a bath of fustic and logwood. 

2. Dark brown (22 lbs.). A. Place the garments, 
etc., overnight in a hot decoction of 6f lbs. sumac. 
Then take them out, wring and work them in an acetate 
of iron mordant of 1° Be. for one-quarter of an hour. 
Rinse and work for half an hour in a cold bath which 
contains 8J ozs. of tartar emetic in solution. Then 
rinse and dye at from 122° to 145° F. in a bath which 



158 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

contains 4J ozs. vesuvine and If ozs. dianiond-fuchsine 
in solution. 

B. Dissolve 4f lbs. catechu and add 6 ozs. bluestone 
to the solution. Work the garments in the boiling 
solution for half an hour, then take out, wring, work 
them for half an hour at 134° F. in a bath which con- 
tains 10J ozs. chromate of potassium, and rinse. Now 
mordant them for two hours in an acetate of alumina 
bath at 2° Be., rinse, and dye hot in a decoction of 
2J- lbs. logwood and 3J lbs. each of Brazilwood and 
fustic. 

Acetate of alumina mordant This mordant can be 
obtained in commerce, but may be prepared as follows : — 

Dissolve 20 lbs. each of alum and sugar of lead in 
hot water, and let the solution stand until clear. Pour 
off the supernatant clear liquor and add the same 
quantity of hot water to the sediment. Let again stand 
until clear, and add the supernatant clear liquor to the 
first. 

3. Coffee-brown (22 lbs,). Treat the garments, etc., 
according to the directions given under 2 for dark 
brown, but use a weaker iron bath and double the 
quantity of yellow coloring-matter. 

4. Bordeaux (22 lbs.). A. Soak the garments, etc., 
for several hours in the extract of 4f lbs. sumac. For 
dark Bordeaux, give next a weak iron bath, and rinse. 
Then work the garments for half an hour in a bath of 
7 ozs. tartar emetic, and dye in a hot bath of If ozs. 
vesuvine and 4| ozs. diamond-fuchsine, and, if necessary, 
a little logwood. 

B. Sumac bath as in the preceding, and mordanting 
for four hours in a bath of 24- lbs. alum and 3i ozs. tin 



DYEING GARMENTS. 159 

salt. Rinse, and dye in a batli of diamond-fuchsine and 
Brazilwood. 

5. 1 /< trine-blue (22 lbs.). A. The garments, etc., re- 
ceive a hot sumac bath of 6f lbs. sumac, and then a 
bath of acetate or nitrate of iron. They are then rinsed 
and worked for half an hour longer in the sumac bath. 
Then wring and work them for half an hour in a bath 
containing 8| ozs. tartar emetic. Rinse, and dye in a 
hot bath containing 7 ozs. neutral aniline dark blue. 

B. Treat as in the preceding, but dye in a hot bath 
containing 2 ozs. 10 drachms each of fast blue and methyl- 
violet 6B. 

C. Treat in a hot sumac bath as given under A, then 
mordant for two hours in a bath which contains 24 lbs. 

o 

alum and 7 ozs. bluestone. Then dye in 6f lbs. log- 
wood, working the garments, etc., in the bath for half 
an hour, and darken in a cold bath containing 21 ozs. 
of copperas in solution. 

In place of sumac, 15 per cent, of sumac extract may 
be used. 

D. Treat in a hot sumac bath as given under A, 
mordant in an iron bath, so that the garments acquire a 
medium gray ground, and rinse. Dye in a bath of 122° 
F., which contains 2 ozs. 10 drachms methyl-violet 6B, 
and 11 J drachms methyl or malachite green. 

E. Potash blue. Work the garments, etc., for half an 
hour in a cold bath, to which have been added 41 lbs. 
nitrate of iron and 8J ozs. tin salt. Dye them for half 
an hour in a hot bath of 26J ozs. yellow prussiate of 
potash, and then add to the bath 7 ozs. sulphuric acid. 
Return the garments to the bath and work them for one- 



160 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

quarter of an hour. The same process may be repeated 
in the iron bath and potash bath. 

6. Bright blue (22 lbs.). Place the garments, etc., for 
several hours in a bath of 21 ozs. tannin in a clean 
wooden vessel, and then work them in a bath of 2 -J- lbs. 
tin salt for half an hour. Next rinse and dye in a 
warm bath of 3J ozs. neutral aniline bright blue. 

7. Ponceau (22 lbs.). A. Place the garments over- 
night in an extract of 6f lbs. sumac. Then work them 
for half an hour in a bath of 17J ozs. each of alum and 
tin salt, and let them remain in the bath for one hour 
longer. Dye in a warm bath of 7 ozs. neutral aniline 
ponceau. 

B. Treat with sumac extract as given under A, and 
dye at a hand-heat in a bath of 2\ lbs. alum, 3J lbs. 
turmeric, and 8J ozs. diamond-fuchsine. 

C Treat with sumac extract, and mordant with alum 
and tin salt as given under A. Dye in a decoction of 
5J lbs. Brazilwood. 

D. Turkish red. Soak the garments overnight in an 
extract of 10 lbs. sumac. Then place them for two 
hours in a tin mordant of 5° Be., prepared by dissolving 
tin in a mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids (see 
below). Dye for one and a half hours in a bath pre- 
pared with 22 lbs. best sanders, gradually heating to 
boiling. 

Tin mordant Pour together 4§- lbs. hydrochloric 
acid, and from 3J to 7 ozs. nitric acid, and dissolve in 
the mixture 7 ozs. of best tin. 

8. Chamois (22 lbs.). A. Dye in a hot bath con- 
taining 3 J lbs. annotta and 4f lbs. soda in solution. 
Rinse and pass through an alum-bath of 2^ lbs. alum. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 1G1 

B. Flesh color. Dissolve 17 \ ozs. catechu in the 
bath, and work the garments, etc., in it for half an hour. 
Then work them for one-quarter of an hour in a fresh 
hath of 14 ozs. sulphuric acid, and rinse. 

9. Orange (22 lbs.). Dissolve at a boiling-heat 3J 
Ibs. each of sugar of lead and litharge, and add the 
solution to a cold bath. Mordant the articles in this 
bath overnight, and next morning pass them through a 
lime-bath. Rinse and dye hot in a solution of 26J 
ozs. chromate of potassium and 8 J ozs. common salt. 
Then pass through a boiling-hot bath containing 2\ lbs. 
lime in solution, and rinse thoroughly. 

10. Green (22 lbs.). A. Bright green. Place the 
garments, etc., for two hours in a bath of 21 ozs. tannin, 
Avring out, and bring them for half an hour into a bath 
of 8J ozs. tartar emetic. Then dye in a hot bath of 2|- 
lbs. turmeric and 8J ozs. brilliant green. 

B. May green. Place the garments, etc., in a sumac 
bath of 5 \ lbs. sumac, in a wooden vessel, allowing them 
to remain overnight. ISext morning mordant them for 
a few hours in a mordant of 4| lbs. alum and 17^ ozs. 
sugar of lead. Rinse and dye in a decoction of 6f 
lbs. quercitron. Blue with 7 ozs. alum and 14 drachms 
cotton pale blue. 

C. Dark green. Place the garments in an extract of 
8f lbs. sumac, allowing them to remain in the bath for 
several hours or overnight. Then pass them through a 
nitrate of iron bath, rinse, work them for half an hour 
more in the same sumac bath, next for half an hour in a 
bath of 8 J ozs. tartar emetic, and rinse. Then dye in a 
bath of 7 ozs. methyl or brilliant green and 2^ lbs. tur- 
meric. 

11 



162 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER, 

D. Dark green. Dye medium blue in the cold vat, 
pass through a quite acid sulphuric acid bath, and rinse. 
Then mordant for several hours in a hot bath of 2\ lbs. 
each of bluestone and soda, and rinse. Dye in a bath 
of 6 1 lbs. fustic and 2^ lbs. logwood. 

11. Yellow (22 lbs.). A. Straw yellow. Dissolve 4 J 
ozs. nitrate of lead, add the solution to a cold bath, 
work the garments for some time in the bath, and then 
allow them to remain in it several hours. Then take 
them out and dye in a fresh hot bath of 2 ozs. 10 
drachms chromate of potassium. Take them out again, 
add 3J ozs. sulphuric acid to the bath, replace the gar- 
ments, work them for a short time, and rinse. 

B. Work the garments, etc., for some time in a bath 
of 17 J ozs. tannin, then in one of 8 J ozs. chloride of tin, 
and finally dye at a hand-heat in a bath of 2 ozs. 10 
drachms neutral yellow. 

C. Dye the garments, etc., for half an hour in a hot 
bath of 17J ozs. fustic and 2i- lbs. yellow catechu. Then 
work them for one-quarter of an hour in a bath of 3J 
ozs. chromate of potassium, take them out, add to the 
bath If ozs. copperas, return the garments to the bath, 
work them for ten minutes, and dye at a hand-heat in a 
fresh bath of If ozs. neutral aniline-yellow. 

D. Chrome-yellow. Dissolve at a boiling-heat 17 J 
ozs. each of sugar of lead and nitrate of lead, and, after 
adding the solution to a cold bath, mordant the articles 
in it for from 12 to 24 hours. Then pass them through 
a lime-bath, and dye in a hot bath of 26| ozs. chromate 
of potassium and 8 \ ozs. hydrochloric acid. 

12. Pensee(22lbs.). A. Heliotrope. Place the articles 
for several hours in a bath of 26J ozs. tannin, then 



DYEING GARMENTS. 163 

work them for half an hour in a solution of 14 ozs. 
tartar emetic, and, for a blue tone, dye in a bath of If 
ozs. methyl-violet 6B, or, for less blue tones, in one of 
the same quantity of methyl-violet 2B or R. 

B. Dark Pensee. Steep the garments overnight in 
an extract of 6| lbs. sumac. Then work them in a 
nitrate of iron bath at 1 ° Be. for one-quarter of an hour, 
and next in one of 14 ozs. tartar emetic for one-half an 
hour. Einse and dye in a warm bath of 3 \ ozs. methyl- 
violet. 

13. Rose-color (22 lbs.), A. The garments, etc., must 
first be bleached, which is effected by placing them for a 
few hours in a clear solution of 2 \ lbs. chloride of 
lime, rinsing, passing them through a weak sulphuric or 
hydrochloric acid bath, and again rinsing. Now work 
them for one-quarter of an hour in a cold bath of 5 \ ozs. 
saffron extract, then take them out, add to the bath 10 J 
ozs. tartaric acid in solution, replace the garments, and 
work them for half an hour. 

B. Work the bleached garments, etc., for half an hour 
in a bath containing 10J ozs. tannin, and dye in a hand- 
warm bath containing 5f drachms of diamond-fuchsine 
in solution. 

14. Gray (22 lbs.). A. Work the garments in a 
very weak nitrate of iron bath for 5 minutes, and dye 
in a decoction of 5J ozs. powdered nutgalls. 

B. Work the garments in a decoction of 17 J ozs. 
logwood for one-quarter of an hour, and mordant in a 
bath of 2 ozs. 10 drachms sulphate of iron. 

C. Work the garments in a warm solution of 8 J 
ozs. catechu and 10 J ozs. logwood for half an hour, and 



164 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

mordant in a bath to which 7 ozs. of acetate of iron 
have been added. 

D. Extract 17J ozs. sumac and dissolve 8^ ozs. 
catechu. Add both extract and solution to a hot bath, 
and turn the garments in it for half an hour. Mordant 
in a bath with 10J ozs. copperas. 

15. Cream (22 lbs.). A. Prepare a warm bath of 
17 J ozs. barrel soap, and turn the garments in it for 
half an hour. Then work them in a cold bath of 1 oz. 
copperas for one-quarter of an hour. 

It may here be remarked that the articles intended for 
light colors have to be bleached according to directions 
given under No. 13 A. 

B. Turn the garments in a weak soap-bath, and dye 
them for half an hour in a hand-warm bath of 5J 
drachms neutral aniline-orange. 

C. Pass the garments through a weak soap-bath, and 
dye in a warm bath of 5 J drachms phosphine. 

16. Mode (22 lbs.). A. Dissolve 17 J ozs. catechu, and 
add to the solution that of 2 ozs. bluestone. Heat this 
bath to boiling, and turn the garments in it for half an 
hour. Then take them out and pass them for half an 
hour through a bath which contains a solution of 2J- 
Ibs. each of lime and soda. Rinse well. 

B. Turn the garments for half an hour in a hot bath 
containing 17J ozs. catechu and 1 oz. bluestone in solu- 
tion ; then mordant for one-quarter of an hour in a bath 
containing 3J ozs. nitrate of iron and 14 drachms tin 
salt. 

C. Turn the garments for half an hour in a hot bath 
of 14 ozs. catechu and If ozs. bluestone. Take them 
out and pass them for 10 minutes at a hand-heat through 



DYEING GARMENTS. 165 

a bath of 2 ozs. chromate of potassium. Take them out 
and add to the chromate of potassium bath 1 oz. verdi- 
gris (acetate of copper) and 2 ozs. 10 drachms nitrate 
of iron. Re-enter the garments and turn them for one- 
quarter of an hour. 

D. Handle the garments in a hot extract of 2i lbs. 
sumac for one hour, and then in a nitrate of iron bath. 
Rinse and dry with neutral aniline Bismarck or orange. 

17. Olive (22 lbs.). A. Turn the garments, etc., for 
half an hour in a hot decoction of 2\ lbs. quercitron 
and 17J ozs. alum, then treat them for half an hour 
in a bath of 17 \ ozs. copperas, and rinse. 

For a dark color, 4f to 6f lbs. quercitron may be used ; 
or add, according to the shade desired, fustic and log- 
wood to the quercitron bath. 

B. Dissolve Yl\ ozs. catechu and If ozs. Milestone. 
Turn the garments in the hot solution for three-quarters 
of an hour, take them out, draw them through a weak 
nitrate of iron solution for one-quarter of an hour, and 
rinse. 

Now add to the catechu bath a decoction of 17 \ 
ozs. quercitron, and dye the garments in it. 

C. Turn the garments, etc., in a hot decoction of 
4| lbs. sumac, and then let them stand in it overnight. 
The next morning turn them for half an hour in a mor- 
dant of 17 \ ozs. alum and 4 ozs. 6 drachms nitrate of 
iron. Rinse and replace them in the sumac bath, to 
which a decoction of 26J ozs. fustic has been added. 
After turning them in this bath for half an hour, return 
them to the mordanting bath, and rinse. 

D. Treat in the same manner as given in the preced- 



166 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

ing, but add to the catechu bath a decoction of 21 ozs. 
quercitron. 

E. Olive-brown. Treat in the same manner as given 
under B, but add to the dye-bath 26J ozs. Brazilwood. 

18. Gensdarme (22 lbs.). Dye the garments medium 
blue in the vat and boil. Then pass them through a 
warm bath of 21- lbs. fustic for half an hour, and 
next through one of 17 J ozs. bluestone for half an hour. 
Dye with iodine or methyl-green. 

19. All fancy colors on cotton, etc., may be produced 
by proceeding as follows : — 

For light colors, the articles, if not white, require 
bleaching and are then passed through a strong tannin 
bath for half an hour, and next through a tartar 
emetic bath for J hour. They are then dyed warm : For 
green with neutral aniline-greens, such as methyl-green, 
iodine-green, malachite, brilliant green, etc. For orange, 
with neutral orange ; olive, with orauge and green ; blue, 
with neutral bright blue (cotton bright blue); yellow, 
with cotton yellow, turmeric, fustic, etc. ; Bismarck and 
mode for cotton, with neutral orange, cotton brown, fus- 
tic, Brazilwood, and logwood. 

For medium colors, draw the garments for a few min- 
utes through a strong sumac bath and then pass them 
through a very weak nitrate of iron bath. Rinse, pass 
them through a tartar emetic bath, and rinse once more. 
Then dye with neutral aniline colors, eventually w T ith 
fustic, Brazilwood, and logwood. 

For Bordeaux : Diamond fuchsine with a little tur- 
meric. 

For dark colors : Turn the garments for several hours 
in a very strong sumac bath, and mordant in a nitrate 



DYEING GARMENTS. 167 

of iron bath at 1° B., or in an acetate of iron bath. 
Then rinse, pass through a tartar emetic bath, and rinse 
once more. Then dye as given for medium colors. 

All vegetable substances impregnated with a tannin 
mordant take the dye without use of tartar emetic 
or another mordant, but they then rub off somewhat. 

Dyeing Garments and Fabrics of Mixed Fibres. 

The dyeing of mixed fabrics is essentially a combina- 
tion of the separate methods as given for tissues woven 
of only one variety of fibre, for half- wool — wool and 
cotton — goods the treatment being, for instance, the same 
as for these two fibres. The wool is always first dyed 
and then the cotton, and with fabrics of wool and silk 
the first is also first treated. The reason for this is that 
wool must always be handled at a boiling heat, while 
cotton or silk is dyed at a lower temperature. Fur- 
thermore, the wool does not suffer so much from a sub- 
sequent dyeing process as silk or cotton, which, if the 
continued boiling heat required for wool constituted the 
final process, would lose color, the acid bath especially 
destroying the wood-dyes on the other fibres. After 
dyeing the wool, the cotton or silk should be treated at 
as low a temperature as possible. 

There are, however, some coloring-matters with which 
it is possible to finish both varieties of fibre in one 
bath, and such combined methods of dyeing are here 
given. 

1. Black (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool and 
cotton. A. Steep the garments overnight in a weak bath < 
of about 17 J ozs. to 26 J ozs. catechu, at from 122° to 



168 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

167° F. — an old catechu bath used for dyeing brown 
will do. The next morning take out the garments and 
boil them in a bath consisting of 4|- lbs. copperas, 8J 
ozs. bluestone, b\ ozs. argol, and 26^ ozs. Glauber's salt 
or common salt, all thoroughly dissolved. Then cool off' 
the bath, work the garments in it while gradually heat- 
ing to boiling, and allow them to boil gently for one 
hour. Then take them out and let them lie till the 
next day. Then rinse and dye them in a decoction 
of 6f lbs. logwood and 27J ozs. fustic. Enter the gar- 
ments in the cold bath and constantly turn them while 
gradually heating to boiling. The cotton-thread will 
now be black, and the garments are gently boiled until 
the woollen-thread also appears black, which will require 
from 5 to 10 minutes. 

Special care must be taken not to boil the garments 
longer than absolutely necessary, otherwise the dye is 
boiled off again from the cotton. With careful treat- 
ment, this method produces on half- woollen articles 
nearly as fast and beautiful a black as when each 
variety of fibre is dyed by itself. 

The garments are finally taken out, allowed to cool, 
and rinsed. 

B. Steep the articles overnight in a bath of 27J ozs. 
yellow catechu and 17J ozs. red catechu. Then take 
them out and enter them, at 145° F., in a bath of 12 J 
ozs. chromate of potassium, 10J ozs. bluestone, 3J ozs. 
argol, and 27J ozs. Glauber's salt. Turn them in the 
bath while gradually heating the latter to the boiling- 
point and then let them boil for one hour longer. .Now 
take them out and let them lie till the next morning, or 
at least a few hours. Then rinse and dye in a decoc- 



DYEING GARMENTS. 169 

tion of 7£ lbs. logwood. Enter the garments in the 
(•old bath ; constantly turn them while gradually 
heating to boiling, and then boil gently until the wool 
appears black. 

Combined method for wool and silk. C Steep the 
articles for one hour in a strong acetate of iron bath and 
then dye the wool black according to directions given 
under " Dyeing woollen goods," No. 1 D. After dyeing, 
pass the articles through a weak sulphuric acid bath, 
rinse, and, after treating them in a chlorine bath, rinse 
again. 

2. Brown (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool and 
cotton. Steep the garments, etc., overnight in a bath con- 
taining 2f lbs. catechu and 5 \ ozs. bluestone in solution. 
Then take them out and boil them for one hour in a 
bath of 8^- ozs. chromate of potassium and 17J- ozs. 
each of argol and Glauber's salt. Dye with a decoc- 
tion of 2£ lbs. fustic, 4f- lbs. Brazilwood, and \7\ 
lbs. logwood. Enter the garments in a cold bath ; turn 
them well, while gradually heating to boiling, and then 
allow them to boil gently for a quarter of an hour. 

3. Gray (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool and cotton. 
Dissolve in a decoction of 8-|- ozs. sumac and 17-|- ozs. 
logwood, 5 \ ozs. alum, 3-|- ozs. argol, and 12 \ ozs. 
copperas. Enter the garments at a hand-heat and work 
them for half an hour, while gradually heating to 190° 
F. Then take them out and rinse. 

4. Violet-gray (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool 
and cotton. Turn the garments for a half-hour in the 
hand-warm solution of 21 ozs. tannin, and then pass 
them through a very weak nitrate of iron bath. Rinse 



170 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

and dye at a hand-heat in a solution of 5| drachms 
methyl-violet. 

5. Silver-gray (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool 
and cotton. Boil the garments for half an hour with If 
ozs. chromate of potassium and 3f ozs. argol, and then 
dye with 3^- ozs. each of logwood and archil. Enter 
the garments in the cold bath, and constantly turn them 
while gradually heating to 190° F. Then take them 
out and rinse. 

6. Pensee (22 lbs.). Combined method for wool and 
cotton. Turn the garments, etc., for half an hour in a 
strong sumac bath, and then let them lie in it for one 
hour or longer. Now wring them out and work them 
for half an hour in a solution of 17 J ozs. mordanting 
salt. Then draw them through a weak sulphuric acid 
bath and rinse. Next dye in a hand-warm bath con- 
taining a solution of 7 ozs. methyl-violet 6B and 
rinse. 

7. Green and gensdarme blue. Combined method 
or wool and silk. Turn the garments in a bath of 
indigo-carmine, picric acid, alum, and sulphuric acid. 
Enter at 122° F., and gradually heat to 190° F. 

In the following a few directions for dyeing half- 
woollen goods, when each kind of fibre is to be dyed by 
itself, are given : — 

8. Black (22 lbs.). After dyeing the wool in the gar- 
ments black, according to any of the directions given 
under " Dyeing woollen goods," the garments are steeped 
overnight in a cold decoction of 4| lbs. sumac, when 
they are taken out and turned for two hours in an 
acetate of iron bath at 2° Be. They are then thoroughly 
rinsed and turned for one-quarter of an hour in a cold 



DYEING GARMENTS. 171 

bath of If ozs. chromate of potassium. Finally dye 
in a cold decoction of 4f lbs. logwood and 17 J ozs. 
fustic. 

9. Brown (22 lbs.). A. After dyeing the wool in the 
garments brown, according to the directions given under 
" Dyeing woollen goods," steep the garments, etc., over- 
night in a cold decoction of 4f lbs. sumac, when they 
are taken out, turned for a quarter of an hour in a 
nitrate of iron bath at 1° Be., and rinsed. Now pass 
them for one-quarter of an hour through the old sumac 
bath, and then work them for half an hour in a cold 
bath of 8 J ozs. tartar emetic. Dye at a hand-heat in 
a solution of b\ ozs. vesuvine and 3J ozs. diamond- 
fuchsine. 

B. After dyeing the wool, turn the articles one-quarter 
of an hour in a cold bath containing 5J lbs. catechu and 
5 \ ozs. bluestone in solution, and then let them lie in 
the bath for several hours or overnight. Then take 
them out, pass them for one hour through an acetate of 
iron bath, at 2° Be., and rinse thoroughly. Now handle 
them for half an hour in a bath of 10 J ozs. chromate of 
potassium heated to 167° F., then rinse, and dye in a 
hand-warm bath of 3J ozs. vesuvine and 27J ozs. log- 
wood. 

C. After dyeing the wool, give a catechu bath as 
described under B. Then turn the garments for half 
an hour in a bath of 8J ozs. chromate of potassium 
heated to 122° F., and rinse. Now turn them for two 
hours in an acetate of alumina bath at 2° B£. (see "Dye- 
ing cotton and linen fabrics/' No. 2). Rinse and dye 
in a warm bath of Brazilwood, fustic, and logwood. 



172 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

10. Marine-blue (22 lbs.). A. After dyeing the wool, 
steep the garments overnight in a sumac bath. Then 
take them out, turn them for half an hour in a nitrate 
of iron bath at 1° Be., and rinse. Turn them again 
for half an hour in the sumac bath, and then handle 
them for half an hour in a bath of 8 J ozs. tartar emetic. 
Rinse and dye in a cold bath containing 5J ozs. neutral 
dark blue. 

B. After dyeing the wool, give a sumac bath as above, 
and then turn the garments for half an hour in an acetate 
of iron bath. Rinse thoroughly, return to the sumac 
bath, and handle them in a tartar emetic bath as above. 
Finally dye in a bath of If ozs. each of neutral fast 
blue and methyl- violet 5B, or, instead of fast blue, 14 
drachms brilliant green. 

11. Bordeaux (22 lbs.). After dyeing the wool, steep 
the garments several hours or overnight in a bath of 4f 
lbs. sumac, pass them through a tartar emetic bath, as 
given under 10 A, rinse, and dye at 100° F. in a bath of 
8 J drachms vesuvine and If ozs. diamond-fuchsine. 

12. Green (22 lbs.). A. May green. After dyeing 
the wool, pass the garments through a sumac bath and 
tartar emetic bath, as given under Bordeaux. Then 
dye with 2| lbs. turmeric and 3f ozs. brilliant green. 
Scald the turmeric by itself, dissolve the brilliant green 
with the assistance of heat, and add both to the cold bath. 

B. Russia green. Steep the garments overnight in 
a strong sumac bath, then turn them for half an hour in 
a nitrate of iron bath and rinse. Next turn them for 
half an hour more in the sumac bath, and pass them, as 
above, through a tartar emetic bath. Rinse, and dye in a 
cold bath of 5 \ ozs. methyl-green. 



DYEING GARMENTS. 173 

13. Half-woollen cloth articles. After dyeing the 
wool, pass the articles for 10 minutes through a cold, 
strong sumac bath, and then for the same length of time 
through a strong iron bath. Rinse, and dye for a short 
time in cold baths containing a decoction of the dye- 
wood corresponding to the color desired. Rinse again, 
and pass through a cold bath containing a very small 
amount of Jayelle water — chloride of lime with soda. 
Rinse again, and, in case the color has been dyed on the 
wool with acid, the articles may be taken through a 
weak acid bath. Articles thus treated do not discolor. 

14. Changeant. Though yery seldom demanded, it 
is of interest to dye half-woollen articles two contrasting 
colors, for which short directions will here be given. 
Only half-w r oollen goods in which wool and cotton are 
uniformly represented can be used for the purpose. 

The wool, in this case, is also first dyed. The color- 
ing-matters for this mode of dyeing must be very care- 
fully selected, so that in dyeing one fibre the other 
remains, if possible, entirely free from coloring-matter. 

A. Black and ichite. The woollen-thread is dyed 
castor-black — see " Dyeing woollen goods," No. 1 D. 
The garments are then passed through a w r eak bath of 
Javelle water, so that the cotton-thread appears white. 
Finally blue slightly with methyl-violet. 

B. Cream and rose-color are produced as follows : The 
wool-thread is dyed cream with picric acid, and, after 
rinsing, the cotton-thread is dyed rose-color with saffron 
extract and tartaric acid in a cold bath, whereby the 
cream is not injured. 

In the above-mentioned black and white (A), the 
white may also be dyed rose-color with saffron extract. 



174 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

C. Brown and green, as well as olive, may be produced 
by dyeing the woollen-thread medium brown with 
archil and turmeric, using as much of the latter as pos- 
sible, so that the cotton-thread becomes yellow. Now 
pass the articles through a sumac bath, then through an 
iron bath, and dye in a cold bath with methyl-green. 
For olive add diamond-fuchsine. 

15. Sizing. It is generally supposed that but little 
sizing should be used. However, there can be no doubt 
that by a suitable sizing the garments acquire an ex- 
ternal appearance which makes the fabric appear more 
costly, but starch alone, as is frequently done, should 
not be used for the purpose. 

As a normal sizing may be recommended : Joiner's 
glue 2 parts and wheat-starch 1 part. 

Soak the glue in water for one day, and then boil it 
thoroughly with the starch. With this size the gar- 
ments may be thoroughly treated without becoming 
hard, as is frequently the case with the employment of 
a small quantity of starch alone. 

For light colors very pale glue or gelatine should be 
used. For silk, the finer varieties of gum are recom- 
mended. 

1 7 . To free phish after dyeing from fibres. Plush takes 
up in the dye-bath many impurities, especially fibres, 
which are difficult to remove. This may, however, be 
effected by treating the plush with sand-paper, which 
should not be too fine. Take a small wooden block of 
such size that it can be held in the hand like a brush. 
Round off the lower side and cover it with sand-paper. 
With the block thus prepared rub off the plush. 



SOAPS FOR REMOVAL OF STAINS. 175 



YIIL 

PREPARATION OF VARIOUS SOAPS AND COM- 
POUNDS FOR THE REMOVAL OF STAINS. 

I. Ox-gall soap. I. Open and express sufficient ox- 
gall bladders to obtain 35 quarts of gall, pour upon 32 
quarts of it 7f ozs. of acetic ether (which amounts to 
about 7 parts of acetic ether to 1000 parts of gall), and 
stir for a few minutes. The gall when taken from the 
bladder diffuses a strong odor, which it loses on the ad- 
dition of acetic ether. The gall thus purified is con- 
verted into soap by treating it with caustic lye, but the 
product thus obtained is not so good as that produced 
by melting 1 part resin or tallow soap in f part purified 
ox-gall. This soap is very useful for scouring, it acting 
in the same manner as the gall by itself, and being 
more convenient to handle. It can, of course, only be 
used for colors which will stand it. 

II. Mix together 3J lbs. ox-gall with 55 lbs. melted 
cocoanut oil. Saponify this mixture by the cold pro- 
cess with 27 J lbs. caustic lye of 38° Be. The soap 
may be dyed by the addition of 30 ozs. ultramarine, 
and, if desired, perfumed with a mixture of 2\ ° zs - of 
lavender oil and 2J ozs. of caraway-seed oil. 

III. Purified ox-gall 1 part, white curd soap 2 
parts. Cut the soap into shavings and melt it in the 
ox-gall at a moderate heat. Evaporate to the proper 
consistency. The ox-gall is prepared by boiling it with 
10 to 12 parts of wood-spirit and straining. 



176 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

2. Evasive soap to remove stains and grease from 
clothing. Dissolve 2 lbs. good Castile soap and \ lb. 
carbonate of potash in \ pint hot water. Cut the soap 
in thin slices ; boil the soap with the potash until it is 
thick enough to mould into cakes. Add alcohol 1 oz., 
camphor \ oz., hartshorn 1 oz. Color with 1 oz. pul- 
verized charcoal. 

Soap for removing stains. Take 22 lbs. of the best 
white soap and reduce it to thin shavings. Place it in 
a boiler together with about 1 gallon of water and 18J 
lbs. of ox-gall. Cover the boiler and allow it to remain 
at rest overnight. In the morning heat up gently and 
regulate it so that the soap may dissolve without stir- 
ring. When the whole is homogeneous and flows 
smoothly, part of the water having been evaporated, 
add turpentine ^-*lb., benzine 7 ozs., and mix well. 
While still in a state of fusiou color with green ultra- 
marine and ammonia ; pour into moulds and let stand 
a few days before using. 

4. Cleansing fluid. Camphor 8 parts, alcohol 1, sul- 
phuric ether 1. 

5. Cleansing fluid for coarser fabrics. Mix 1 part 
ether with 9 parts oil of turpentine. 

6. Cleansing fluid for leather and tissues. Ether 1 
part, oil of turpentine 4 parts. 

7. Winkler's cleansing fluid. Mix petroleum ether 1 
part, sulphuric ether 1 part, absolute alcohol 1 part, and 
add to the mixture a few drops of a sweet-scented oil. 

English cleansing fluid for removing acid, resin, wax, 
tar, and grease-spots, consists of 100 parts by weight of 
95 per cent, alcohol, 35 of liquid ammonia of specific 
gravity 0.875, and 15 of benzol. The fluid is 



SOAPS FOR REMOVAL OF STAINS. 177 

prepared by weighing out the benzol, introducing it 
into a glass vessel, then adding the alcohol, shaking, 
and finally adding the liquid ammonia. 

9. Scouring water. Mix rectified oil of turpentine 8 
parts, absolute alcohol 1 part, and sulphuric ether 1 
part, with a few drops of lemon oil. Shake thoroughly 
and keep in a well-stoppered bottle. With this fluid 
grease-stains can be removed without the color of the 
fabric suffering any change. 

10. Ox-gall scouring water. Mix together in a glass 
bottle 4 parts warm water, 3 parts white-soap shavings, 
\ part pulverized soda, and 1 part ox-gall, adding the 
latter when all the rest is uniformly dissolved. To give 
the mixture an agreeable odor some lavender-water is 
generally added. 

For use, carefully apply a small quantity of the mix- 
ture to the stain and brush with a small brush. Then 
wash with warm water until every trace of the scouring 
water has been removed, otherwise the fabric might 
suffer injury. This scouring water should not be used 
for difficult or fugitive colors. 

11. Scouring water to remove rust-spots from linen, etc. 
Mix in a bottle saccharic acid 1 part, lemon-juice 1 part, 
and pure water 8 parts. Apply a few drops of the solu- 
tion to the stain, and hold the portion of the linen, etc., 
containing the stain against a tin vessel filled with hot 
water. The stain disappears immediately. Finally, 
wash in soap water. 

12. Cloth cleaning compound. Glycerine 1 oz., sul- 
phuric ether 1 oz., alcohol 1 oz., water of ammonia 4 
ozs., Castile soap 1 oz. Mix together and add sufficient 
water to make 2 quarts. 

12 



178 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

13. Lightning eradicator. Strong water of ammonia 
4 ozs., water 2 quarts, saltpetre 1 oz., finely-shaved mot- 
tled soap 2 ozs. Mix thoroughly and allow the prepara- 
tion to stand several days before using. Cover any 
grease-spot with this preparation, rub well, and rinse 
with clean water. 

14. Grease extractor. Take fuller's earth made free 
from all gritty matter by elutriation with water. Mix 
with J lb. of the earth, thus prepared, J lb. each of 
soda and soap, and 8 yolks of eggs well beaten up with 
J lb. purified ox-gall. The whole must be carefully 
triturated upon a porphyry slab, the soda with the soap 
in the same manner as colors are ground, mixipg in 
gradually the yolks of eggs and the ox-gall, previously 
beaten together. Incorporate next the fuller's earth by 
slow degrees until a uniform thick paste is formed, which 
is made into balls or cakes of a convenient size and laid 
out to dry. A little of this detergent being scraped off 
with a knife, and made into a paste with water, and ap- 
plied to the stain, will remove it. 

15. Le Clerks scouring liquid for scouring and remov- 
ing grease from tissues of all kinds and worn clothes. 
To take out spots, the liquid is used pure ; but for general 
scouring it is mixed with 4 or 5 times its own quantity 
of water. Dissolve in 22 gallons of hot water 15 J lbs. 
white Castile soap, 1 t 3 q- lbs. carbonate of potash, or 15 
or 18 lbs. soft soap. To the solution add extract of 
Panama ly 1 ^- lbs. In another vessel mix ox- or sheep- 
gall 15 quarts and ammonia at 22° Be. 3 pints. Heat 
this mixture, skim it, let it cool, and then add alcohol at 
90° 3 T \ gallons ; decant and filter. Take J part of the 
soap mixture and -| part of the gall mixture, and add 
some aromatic essence. 



SOAPS FOR REMOVAL OF STAINS. 179 

16. Scouring balls. I. Brown scouring ball. Re- 
duce 2 ozs. Venetian soap to fine shavings, moisten 
them with a little water and work them in the hand to 
a paste. Then add 2J drachms of finely-pulverized cal- 
cined copperas, 2J drachms of finely-pulverized red bole, 
and J drachm lampblack. Mix the substances with 10 
drops of water of ammonia and make them into balls, 
which are laid out to dry at a moderate heat. For use, 
moisten the stain with water, then rub with the scour- 
ing ball, and, when the spot is dry, wash with soft 
water. Repeat the process twice or three times, and rub 
the fabric with a linen cloth. 

II. Green scouring ball. Knead 2 ozs. Venetian soap 
reduced to fine shavings in the hand to a paste, and add 
2J drachms pulverized verdigris, 2J drachms tartar, 
and, finally, 15 to 20 drops of filtered lemon-juice. 
Xow thoroughly mix the constituents together, form the 
mass into balls, and dry the latter at a moderate tempera- 
ture. For the removal of stains proceed as above. 

III. Dry scouring ball. This serves chiefly for the 
removal of grease, oil, w r ax, and dust-spots. Pour 8 J 
drachms 96 per cent, alcohol over 1 oz. each of white 
clay and pulverized bole, knead to a paste, and form into 
balls. Scrape or rub some of the ball upon the stain, 
place a clean cloth upon it, pass a hot iron over it, and 
brush. Repeat the operation twice or three times. 

IV. Scouring ball for silk garments and fabrics. 
Mix 17J ozs. ordinary soap, 8 J ozs. ox-gall, and If ozs. 
oil of turpentine. 

V. Scouring ball for pitch-, wax-, and oil-paint spots. 
Thoroughly mix 2 ozs. white soap, 8J drachms pure 



180 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

potash, and 4J drachms juniper-berry oil. Form the 
mass into balls. 

VI. Scouring ball for resin and grease-spots. Soap 
35 ozs., white bole 15 ozs., and oil of turpentine 5 ozs., 
are formed into balls with a sufficient quantity of spirits 
of wine. 

VII. Black scouring ball. Reduce 2 ozs. Venetian 
soap to fine shavings, moisten with soft water, add 1\ 
drachms lampblack and 10 to 12 drops of potash solu- 
tion. Now thoroughly knead the mass and form it into 
balls. Use in the same manner as I. 

VIII. Scouring ball with yolk of egg. Add to 4 \ ozs. 
soap, dissolved in spirits of wine, the yolks of 4 eggs 
and 8J drachms turpentine. Then add to the mass suf- 
ficient magnesia to allow of it being formed into balls. 

IX. Scouring ball for grease-spots. Triturate upon a 
porphyry slab 17| ozs. pipe-clay, free from sand, 17 J ozs. 
calcined soda, and 17 J ozs. pulverized soap, with a mix- 
ture obtained by well beating up the yolks of 16 eggs 
with 17 J ozs. ox-gall. Make the mass into balls, which 
are dried at a moderate heat. 

X. Scouring ball for vinegar and wine-spots. White 
soap 65 parts by weight, oil of turpentine 10, water of 
ammonia 5. Treat in the manner previously described. 

17. Soap for cleansing cloth and tissues. Boil in a 
suitable vessel 27J ozs. soap reduced to fine shavings, 1 
oz. turpentine, 4J ozs. each of ox-gall and spirits of 
wine, and 1J quarts water until a paste is formed, taking 
care that the mass does not boil over. When it has 
reached the proper consistency, add the yolks of two 
eggs and stir thoroughly. This soap paste must be kept 
in a cool place. 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS. 181 

Ganteine, a composition used to clean kid and other 
leather gloves. Curd soap, reduced to small shavings, 
1 part, water 3 parts. Mix with the assistance of heat, 
and stir in essence of citron 1 part. 

Saponine. This preparation is also used for cleaning 
gloves. Soap in powder 250 parts, water 155 parts. 
Dissolve with the assistance of heat. Cool, and add 
Javelle water 165 parts, water of ammonia 10 parts, 
and rub the whole to a smooth paste. 

For use, a small portion of either the ganteine or 
saponine is rubbed over the glove with a piece of flannel 
(always in one direction) until it is sufficiently clean. 



IX. 

DETERMINATION OF FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS, 
AS WELL AS OF THE VARIOUS TEXTILE FIBRES. 

The fibres, of which a tissue is composed are most 
rapidly and best determined with the assistance of the 
microscope, which, however, requires considerable expe- 
rience and skill in the use of that instrument. But 
chemistry has also furnished us many reliable methods 
of testing, which are readily executed. 

Cellulose forms the basis of all vegetable textile fibres 
(cotton, flax, hemp, etc.), and they, therefore, vigorously 
resist the action of even boiling-hot aqueous solutions 
of the caustic alkalies, while they are strongly attacked 
by heated sulphuric, nitric, and hydrochloric acids, either 
in a concentrated or diluted state. Thus, for instance, 
a cotton fabric may, without suffering great injury, be 



182 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

immersed in cold water containing 5 to 10 per cent, of 
acid ; but on heating the fluid, especially to the boiling- 
point, the cotton in a short time becomes friable, and 
dissolves. 

Fuming nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and sul- 
phuric acids, does not dissolve the vegetable fibre but 
converts it, almost without changing its physical appear- 
ance, into gun-cotton. 

Water of ammonia, either at the ordinary or a 
raised temperature, produces no effect upon cotton and 
hemp. However, a solution of ammonio-oxide of copper 
(Schweitzer's reagent) dissolves cotton, hemp, and flax. 

In a pure state, vegetable textile fibres have but a 
feeble affinity for artificially-prepared coloring-matters, 
they being but slightly or not at all dyed by them, and 
the application of a little soap suffices to remove the dye. 
They do not evolve a characteristic odor in burning. 

Wool, on the other hand, resists the action of even 
concentrated and hot acids quite well, but is dissolved, 
especially at a higher temperature, by caustic lyes. Since 
W'Ool contains sulphur, there is formed by its solution in 
caustic soda a fluid which contains alkaline sulphide 
and sulphydrate, which are indicated by a splendid violet 
tint produced by the addition of nitro-prusside of sodium. 
Nitric acid imparts to wool an intense yellow color; 
chlorine and hypochlorites act in a similar manner, they 
also imparting to wool a yellow color. At the ordinary 
temperature Schweitzer's reagent has no effect on wool, 
but w^hen heated dissolves it. When decomposed by 
heat, wool evolves the characteristic odor of burnt horn. 
It possesses great affinity for coloring-matters, especially 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS. 183 

for those artificially prepared, by which it is readily 
dyed without a mordant. 

8Uk } when burned, evolves an odor similar to wool. 
It is dissolved, especially at higher temperatures, by the 
above-mentioned acids in a concentrated state. Cold 
nitric acid colors silk yellow. Acids diluted with water 
do not act very vigorously upon silk. Concentrated 
alkaline lyes dissolve it, but the solution does not con- 
tain akaline sulphide like that of wool. Silk is changed, 
but not dissolved, by very dilute alkaline lyes. Water 
of ammonia produces no effect on it, while Schweitzer's 
reagent dissolves it. The affinity of silk for coloring- 
matters is the same as that of wool. 

To establish the presence of vegetable fibres (cotton, 
hemp, flax, jute, etc.) in a tissue consisting of wool and 
silk, it is only necessary to boil the latter in a test-fluid 
containing 3J ozs. solid caustic soda in one quart of 
water. Weigh out accurately J to 1 drachm of the 
fabric to be examined ; introduce this sample, together 
with y 1 ^ quart of the soda-lye, into a porcelain casserole 
of about 1 pint capacity, and boil it over an alcohol or 
gas flame for five minutes. If the mass dissolves, it 
consists only of animal fibre (silk or wool) ; but if it is 
not entirely dissolved, take the casserole from the fire, 
allow to settle, pour off the supernatant lye, and, after 
adding fresh lye, boil again for five minutes. If a resi- 
due now remains, it consists entirely of vegetable fibre. 
If the vegetable fibre is colored, the residue is brought 
upon a small cotton filter and washed with hot water. 
The washed fibre is then brought into lukewarm water 
acidulated with about 5 per cent, hydrochloric acid. After 
ten minutes add a little chlorine-water, or a few drops 



184 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

of chloride of lime solution, whereby the vegetable fibre 
is bleached. The filtrate of the caustic soda solution, 
which contains wool or silk, may now immediately be 
tested as to the presence of wool. If the latter is present, 
alkaline sulphides have been formed, which remain in 
the solution. They can be immediately detected by 
the addition of a few drops of acetate of lead solution. 
If a white precipitate is formed, which is completely 
dissolved on shaking, silk only is present ; however, if a 
black precipitate of sulphide of lead is formed, the tested 
tissue contains wool. Instead of acetate of lead solution, 
a few drops of nitro-prusside of sodium solution may be 
used, which, as previously mentioned, produces in the 
presence of alkaline sulphides a beautiful violet tint. 

If the tissue is provided with much coloring-matter, 
E. Kopp recommends to cut the sample into small pieces 
and immerse the latter, with occasional stirring, for five 
minutes in a mixture of 2 volumes sulphuric acid of 60° 
B& and 1 volume fuming nitric acid of 60° Be. By 
this means the wool, silk, and coloring-matters are oxi- 
dized and destroyed, while the vegetable fibre is con- 
verted into gun-cotton, and retains its characteristic 
fibrous nature. The whole is then brought into a com- 
paratively large quantity of water, in which the gun- 
cotton deposits. The fluid is then poured off, while the 
residue is collected upon a filter, thoroughly washed, and 
dried. The dry residue now shows the explosive pro- 
perty of gun-cotton. 

For testing white, or not too dark-colored mixed 
tissues, the affinity of the animal fibres for the artificially- 
prepared coloring-matters may also be utilized. Dark- 
colored tissues must first be decolorized by treatment 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS 185 

with weak chlorine-water, and subsequent thorough 
washing in boiling water. Certain precautions have, 
however, to be observed, since cotton, especially when 
impregnated with amylaceous or other substances serving 
for sizing, may also be dyed with aniline colors. These 
substances must first be removed, and for this purpose 
the tissue is first boiled for ten minutes in water which 
contains in 100 parts 2 parts of carbonate of soda and a 
little soap. The tissue is then rinsed in hot water, next 
steeped for five to ten minutes in water of 120° to 
140° F., which contains 2 per cent, of hydrochloric or 
sulphuric acid, and finally thoroughly washed. In the 
meanwhile prepare a dye-bath, by, for instance, dissolving 
a few drachms of fuchsine in 25 to 30 cubic centimetres 
of water, heating the solution to boiling, and adding, 
during the boiling, caustic soda solution, drop by drop, 
until the bath shows only a pale rose color. Xow re- 
move the bath from the fire and introduce the tissue ; 
take it out after a few minutes, thoroughly wash it in 
clean water, and dry. The silk and woollen threads 
will be colored bright red, while the cotton, flax, etc., 
remain uncolored. 

For the detection of silk in w T ool, or wool in silk, in 
white or light colored tissues, the presence of sulphur in 
the wool may be utilized. Prepare a solution of oxide 
of lead in caustic soda by boiling litharge in the latter 
and, after settling, pouring off the clear fluid. Immerse 
the tissue in the latter. In consequence of their content 
of sulphur the woollen threads immediately become black 
by the formation of black sulphide of lead, while the 
color of the silk threads, which contain no sulphur, re- 
mains unchanged. 



186 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

A simple method consists in the use of concentrated 
acids. Cold nitric acid dissolves silk, while wool is not 
perceptibly attacked by it. Silk acts in the same man- 
ner towards sufficiently concentrated cold sulphuric acid. 
The last-mentioned acid at the same time frees the wool 
from vegetable fibres by converting them into gum and 
sugar. 

It is, however, better to immerse the sample of the 
tissue in cold concentrated hydrochloric acid. The silk 
is in a short time completely dissolved, while the woollen 
and vegetable fibres remain behind unchanged. Now 
add water, collect the unchanged woollen and vegetable 
fibres upon a filter, and wash thoroughly. As a rule, 
they must also be decolorized. 

Now to distinguish the woollen from the vegetable 
fibres, treat them either with boiling caustic soda-lye, 
which only dissolves the wool, or use artificially-pre- 
pared coloring-matters, such as fuchsine, aniline-violet, 
picric acid, which do not dye the cotton if the necessary 
precautionary measures are taken. 

Before subjecting the tissues to a chemical test, it is 
advisable to free them from their sizing and coloring- 
matters, the first of which is effected by successive treat- 
ment with boiling water, either pure or slightly acidu- 
lated, or made alkaline by the addition of carbonate of 
soda, and the latter by chlorine-water. The tissues are 
finally carefully washed and dried. 

The examination of dyed textile fibres and tissues, as 
well as of garments in general, will have to extend to 
the determination of the dye and its lasting qualities. 
The tests to be made may be quite complicated and diffi- 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS. 187 

cult, especially when the various coloring-matters used 
in the production of a certain shade are to be determined. 
J. Fol, who has paid much attention to testing dyed 
fabrics as to the principal colors, blue, yellow, red, green, 
and violet, gives in the "Moniteur de la Teinture" the 
following methods of procedure : — 

A. Blue. 

The principal coloring-matters which have to be con- 
sidered under this head are: 1. Blue from logtvood. 2. 
Paris or Berlin-blue. 3. Aniline-blue. 4. Indigo-blue. 

a. Pour over the fabric to be tested in regard to its 
blue color citric acid solution or dilute hydrochloric acid. 

I. If the color passes into red or orange, the fabric 
has been dyed with logwood. 

II. If the color does not change, the fabric has been 
dyed with one of the other three coloring-matters. 

b. Immerse another sample of the fabric in chloride 
of lime solution. 

I. If the color remains unchanged, it is Berlin-blue. 

II. If decolorization takes place or the fabric acquires 
a yellowish color, it has been dyed either with aniline- 
blue or indigo-blue. 

c. Bring another sample of the fabric into caustic 
soda solution. 

I. If the fabric is immediately discolored or changed 
in color, it has been dyed with aniline-blue. 

II. If it remains unchanged, it has been dyed with 
indigo-blue. 



188 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

B. Yellow. 

The principal yellow coloring-matters are: 1. Rust 
color (ferric oxide). 2. Picric acid. 3. Turmeric. 4. 
Fustic. 5. Weld. 6. French berries. 7. Quercitron. 
For the recognition of the different coloring-matters, the 
presence or absence of the rust color and of picric acid 
has first to be established. 

I. For this purpose a sample of the fabric to be ex- 
amined is placed in a weak, slightly acid solution of 
yellow prussiate of potash, and another sample in a 
solution of cyanide of potash. The production of a 
blue coloration establishes, in the first case, the presence 
of rust color, while in the latter case a blood-red colora- 
tion indicates the presence of picric acid. 

II. If no reaction occurs, place another sample of the 
fabric in a boiling soap-solution (1 part soap to 200 
parts water). 

a. If the fabric turns reddish-brown and the yellow 
color is restored by an acid, it is an indication of 
turmeric, 

b. If the fabric acquires a dark color, it has been 
dyed v^\t\i fustic. 

c. If the color remains unchanged, the fabric may 
have been dyed with weld, French berries, or quercitron. 

For the purpose of distinguishing these coloring- 
matters, three samples of the fabric are used. 

If, on vigorously boiling one of the samples with 
sulphuric acid, the color disappear, the fabric has been 
dyed with weld ; the other coloring-matters mentioned 
above are not affected by this treatment. 

On boiling another sample with solution of tin salt, 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS. 189 

the color changes to orange if the fabric has been dyed 
with French berries; if dyed with quercitron, the color 
remains unchanged or is but slightly altered. 

If annotta has been used for dyeing, it is recognized 
by the greenish-blue color which the fabric acquires 
when immersed in concentrated sulphuric acid, annotta 
being the only yellow coloring-matter which gives this 
reaction. 

Chlorine discolors the coloring-matter of quercitron, 
turmeric, French berries, and icelcl, while annotta resists 
the action of this reagent. 

a Reel 

The coloring-matters which have to be taken into 
consideration are : 1. Cochineal. 2. The reel produced 
by Brazilwood. 3. Madder. 4. Saffron-carmine. 5. 
Aniline-red. 

If a red-colored fabric remains unchanged when 
alternately placed in boiling soap-solution, water of 
ammonia, lemon-juice, and a mixture of equal parts 
tin salt, hydrochloric acid, and water, it has been dyed 
with alizarine. If, on the other hand, a change takes 
place, it is an indication of the absence of madder and 
of the presence of one of the other four coloring-mat- 
ters. If the fabric is entirely discolored by soap-water, 
it has been dyed with saffron-carmine, especially if the 
characteristic shade of the color does not reappear after 
washing the fabric with water and shaking it with lemon- 
juice. If the red color reappears, even in a slighter de- 
gree, by this treatment, the fabric has been dyed with 
aniline-red. If, on the other hand, the fabric, when 



190 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

subjected to the same treatment, acquires a yellowish- 
red or pale-yellow color, it may have been dyed with 
cochineal or Brazilwood. To distinguish these coloring- 
matters, immerse a sample of the fabric in concentrated 
sulphuric acid : if a beautiful cherry-red color immedi- 
diately appears, Brazilwood has been used, and cochineal 
when the color changes to yellow-orange. 

D. Green. 

The dyer distinguishes three kinds of green : — 

1. Green, formed by a mixture of yellow and blue. 

2. Aniline-green from the aldehyde. 

3. New aniline-green from the methyl iodide. 
Though mixed colors are at present not so much used 

as formerly, they occur occasionally. The principal colors 
are : — 

1. Indigo with picric acid. 2. Indigo and yellow vege- 
table coloring-matters. 3. Berlin-blue with picric acid. 
4. Berlin-blue and yellow vegetable coloring-matters. 5. 
Aniline and picric acid. 6. Aniline and yellow vegetable 
coloring-matters. The blue coloring-matters give the 
ground-tone of these mixed green colors. Now, since 
the blue coloring-matters, w r ith the exception of aniline, 
are insoluble, and all the above mentioned yellow color- 
ing-matters soluble in alcohol, a mixture of aniline-blue 
and yellow will be at once recognized by the green color 
which alcohol acquires in treating the fabric with it. 

The procedure of recognizing the green coloring-mat- 
ters is as follows : — 

Heat the fabric to be examined with 95 per cent, alco- 
hol in a w-ater-bath for a few minutes. 



FAST AND FUGITIVE COLORS. 191 

I. The alcohol is colored yellow and the fabric more 
or less blue ; or 

II. The alcohol becomes green and the fabric retains 
its color, though somewhat less intense. 

In the first case indigo or Berlin-blue may have been 
used. Boil the fabric with alcohol, then wash it in clean 
water, and pour chloride of lime solution over it. If it 
becomes discolored, indigo has been used as the ground- 
color of the mixture; and if it remains unchanged, Berlin- 
blue, The yellow-colored alcohol may be used for the 
determination of the yellow color as above mentioned. 

In the second case we have to deal with aniline-green 
from aldehyde or from methyl iodide, or with aniline-blue 
with yellow. To distinguish these three coloring-matters, 
boil the fabric with weak hydrochloric acid ; if it turns 
rose color or lilac, the coloring-matter is aniline-green 
from methyl iodide. If the fabric becomes blue and 
yellow, the coloring-matter is aniline-blue and yellow ; 
and if it is discolored or turns yellowish, aniline-green 
from aldehyde has been used in dyeing. 

E. Violet 

The principal colors are: 1. Ordinary aniline-violet 
2. Aniline-violet produced with iodine. 8. Alkanna-violet. 
4. Madder-violet 5. Archil-violet 6. Brazilwood-violet 
7. Cochineal-violet. 

If, on immersing the fabric in chloride of lime solu- 
tion, the violet color remains unchanged, it is cdhanna- 
violet. If the color of another sample dipped into 
lemon-juice becomes brighter, one of the two aniline- 
violets is present. If the violet becomes red or yellow, 



192 PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. 

it is an indication of the presence of one of the other 
four colors. 

If the violet color has been produced with madder or 
cochineal, the fabric when immersed in chloride of lime 
solution, washed in water, and placed in a solution of 
yellow prussiate of potash, acquires a blue coloration in 
consequence of the mordant of ferric oxide adhering to 
it. If this coloration does not appear, the fabric is fur- 
ther examined as follows : — 

1. A piece of the fabric dipped in chloride of lime 
solution acquires a nankeen-yellow color if the color- 
ing-matter is madder , and is entirely discolored if the 
dye be cochineal. 

2. When Brazilwood has been used in dyeing, another 
sample of the fabric acquires, when dipped in milk of 
lime, first a gray color, and finally becomes almost en- 
tirely discolored ; when dyed with archil, the color passes 
into blue-violet. 

3. When a third sample of the fabric is immersed in 
hydrochloric acid diluted with three times its volume 
of water and acquires a blue-violet color, which after 
washing turns somewhat more reddish, ordinary aniline- 
violet has been used in dyeing. If the fabric becomes 
blue-greenish, and after w r ashing pale lilac or pearl-gray, 
aniline-violet produced with iodine (Hoffmann's violet, 
new parma, primula, etc.) is present. 



INDEX. 



ACETATE of alumina mordant, 
158 
Acetic acid, 39 
Acid, acetic, 39 
citric, 40, 55 
hydrochloric, 40, 54 
oxalate of potassium, 40 
oxalic, 40, 55 
stains, 48, 49 
sulphuric, 54 
sulphurous, 54 

to bleach straw hats with, 
86 
tartaric, 39, 40 
Alcohol and spirits of wine, 35 
American oil of turpentine, 18 
Ammonia, water of, 35, 36, 55 
Aniline colors, dyeing straw hats 
with, 90, 91 
solution of, 91 
to dye gloves with, 
96-98 
leather with, 95, 
96 
Aqua ammoniae, 35, 36 
Art of removing stains, 32-56 



BATISTS, muslins, etc., to wash, 
69 
Beer stains, 48 
Benzine, brown-coal, 19 

or petroleum benzine, 19 

to distinguish benzol from, 19, 

20 
used, purification of, 25, 26 
Benzol, 19-21 

apparatus for the distillation 

of, 26-29 
gelatinized, 43, 44 
-magnesia, 42, 43 
tests for, 19, 20 
used, purification of, 25, 26 
12 



Birds, portions of, treatment of, in 
general, 98, 99 
to dye black, 120 
Black scouring ball, 180 
Blankets, white woollen, to bleach, 
78, 79 
to cleanse, 78, 79 
Bleaching and dyeing straw hats, 
79-91 
fluid, Grouvelle's, 38 
Ramsey's, 38 
Wilson's, 38 
fluids, to bleach straw hats 

with, 85, 86 
straw hats, 80-87 
white woollen blankets, 78, 79 
Blood stains, 52 
Blue dyes, testing of, 187 
Borax, 36, 37 

Borders and shawls, woollen, with 
colored embroidery, washing of, 
60 
Brocade, cleansing of, 63 
Brown-coal benzine, 19 

scouring ball, 179 
Buckskin gloves, cleansing, 92, 93 



CALICOES, to wash, 70 
Caps, embroidered and woven 
with gold, to wash, 71 
Carbonate of soda, 55, 56 
Carpets, to cleanse, 76-78 
Cashmere, to cleanse, 73 
Chemical or dry cleansing, 17-32 
articles not suit- 
able for, 30 
suitable for, 
29,30 
Cherry stains, 46 

Chicken feathers, cleansing of, 114 
drying, 122 
to dye black, 116-118 



194 



INDEX. 



Chicken feathers, treatment of, in 

general, 98, 99 
Chloride of lime, 38, 39 

bleaching straw hats 

with, 82-85 
solution, apparatus 
for preparing, 83-85 
stannous, 37, :-58 
Chlorine, bleaching straw hats 
with, 83 
solution for English black, 128 

for iron black, 127 
treatment of silk garments 

with, 126, 127 
water, 39 
Chloroform, 34,35 
Citric acid, 40, 55 
Cleaning plush, 71, 72 
velveteens, 71, 72 
velvets, 71, 72 
Cleansing and dyeing of gloves, 
92-98 
and washing black silk, 75 

white sheepskins, 78 
an embroidered silk shawl, 74 
blue silks, 75 
brocade, 63 
carpets, 76-78 
cashmere, 73 

cloth and tissues, soap for, 180 
dry or chemical, 17-32 

articles suitable for, 
29,30 
fabrics, concise directions for, 

72-75 
fluids, 176, 177 
merino, 73 . 
olive-green silks, 75 
ostrich feathers, 100 
silk damask, 63 
fabrics, 73-75 
neckties, 74 
ribbons, 63 
silver laces and embroideries, 

65 
soiled or stained woollen 

goods, 73 
table showing best means of, 
for all kinds of fabrics, 52, 
53 
violet silks, 75 
white satin, 73, 74 

woollen blankets, 78, 79 
Cloth articles, alizarine red for, 147 
fancy colors for, 154 



Cloth articles, half-woollen, to dye 
Russia-green, 173 
to dye beige, 148, 149 
Bismarck, 147 
bordeaux, 144, 145 
chartreuse, 149 
chrome-brown, 142, 

143 
coffee-brown, 144 
gray, 148 
marine-blue, 146 
moss-green, 150 
olive-green, 150, 151 
pensee, 152 
red-brown, 145 
Russia-green, 150 
wood-brown, 143 
yellow, 153 
cleaning compound, 177 
soap for cleansing, 180 
Clothing, erasive soap to remove 

stains and grease from, 176 
Cloths, embroidered and woven 

with gold, to wash, 71 
Coffee and milk stains, 46, 47 
Coloring matters, affinity of the 
vegetable fibre for, 155, 
156 
affinity of wool fibre for, 

139 
blue, 187 
green, 190 
red, 189 
violet, 191 
yellow, 188 
Colors, fast and fugitive, deter- 
mination of, as well as of tex- 
tile fibres, 181-192 
Cotton and linen garments and 
fabrics, dyeing, 
155-167 
to dye black, 156, 

157 
to dye bordeaux, 

158, 159, 166 
to dye bright 

blue, 160 
to dye bright 

green, 161 
to dye chamois, 

160 
to dye chrome- 
yellow, 162 
to dye coffee- 
brown, 158 



INDEX. 



195 



Cotton and linen garments and 

fabrics, to dye 

cream, 164 
to dve dark 

brown, 157, 158 
to dye dark 

colors, 166, 167 
to dye dark 

green, 161, 162 
to dye fancv 

colors, 166, 167 
to dye flesh 

color, 161 
to dye gens- 

darme, 166 
to dye gray, 163, 

164 
to dye green, 161 

162 
to dye heliotrope, 

162, 163 
to dye light 

colors, 166 
to dye marine- 
blue, 159 
to dye May green, 

161 
to dye medium 

colors, 166 
to dye mode, 164, 

165 
to dye olive, 165, 

166 
to dye olive- 
brown, 166 
to dye orange, 

161 
to dye pensee, 

162, 163 
to dye ponceau, 

160 
to dye potash 

blue, 159, 160 
to dye rose-color, 

163 
to dye Turkish 

red, 160 
to dye yellow, 162 
Cotton and wool, combined method 
of dyeing black, 167 
-169 
combined method of 
dyeing brown, 169 
combined method of 
dyeing gray, 169 



Cotton and wool, combined method 

of dyeing green and 

gensdarme, 170 
combined method of 

dyeing pensee, 170 
combined method of 

dyeing silver-gray, 

170 
combined method of 

dyeing violet-gray, 

169, 170 
to dye black, 170, 171 
to dye black and 

white, 173 
to dye bordeaux, 172 
to dye brown, 171, 174 
to dye changeant, 173 
to dye cream- and 

rose-color, 173 
to dye green, 172, 174 
to dye marine-blue, 

172 
to dye May green, 172 
to dye olive, 174 
to dye Russia-green, 

172 
goods and fabrics, to wash, 70 
Crape, white-silk, to wash, 68 
Curtains, to tint, 62, 63 

white, washing of, 61-63 



DIRT-STAINS, nature of, 17 
Draining vessel, 23 
Drum, drying, 122 
Drums for dry cleansing, 23, 24 
Dry cleansing, drums for, 23, 24 
on a larger scale, 23-25 
on a small scale, 21-23 
or chemical cleansing, 17-32 

articles not suit- 
able for, 30 
articles suitable 
for, 29, 30 
scouring ball, 179 
Drying boxes, 25 

heating of the, 29 
Duck and goose feathers, to dye 

black, 119 
Dust-stains, 41 
Dye-bath, imparting bisulphate of 

sodium to the, 140 
Dyeing and bleaching straw-hats, 
79-91 
and cleansing of gloves, 92-98 



196 



INDEX. 



Dyeing cotton and linen garments 

and fabrics, 155-167 
drum, the, 122 
fancy feathers, 114-122 
garments, 123-174 

and fabrics of mixed 
fibres, 167-174 
gloves with aniline colors, 96- 

98 
kid gloves, 94-98 
of feathers, 98-122 
ostrich feathers, 100-113 
silk garments and ribbons, 

123-139 
straw-hats, 87-91 
woollen garments and fabrics, 

139-155 
Dyes, blue, testing of, 187 
green, testing of, 190, 191 
red, testing of, 189, 190 
violet, testing of, 191, 192 
yellow, testing of, 188, 189 



EAU de Javelle, 38 
Egg, scouring ball with yolk 
of, 180 
yolk of, 56 
Embroidered caps, woven with 
gold, to wash, 71 
cloths, woven with gold, to 

wash, 71 
fabrics, woven with gold, to 

wash, 71 
linen, woven with gold, to 

wash, 71 
muslin, woven with gold, to 

wash, 71 
silk shawl, to cleanse, 74 
Embroideries and laces, silver, to 
cleanse, 65 
gold, to wash, 65 
white, washing of, 61-63 
English black, chlorine solution 
for, 128 
t cleansing fluid, 176, 177 

iron-black, to dye silk gar- 
ments, 127 
iron, preparation of, 128 
Ether, 33, 34 

-magnesia, 44 



FABRICS and garments, cotton 
and linen, dyeing, 155-167 



Fabrics and garments of mixed 
fibres, dyeing, 167- 
174 
silk, scouring ball for, 

179 
woollen, dyeing, 139- 
155 
dyed, methods of testing, 187- 
192 
Fancy feathers, cleansing of, 114, 
115 
decolorizing of, 115 
definition of, 114 
dyeing, 114-122 
freeing from fat, 115 
white, treatment of, 115, 
116 
Feathers, chicken, cleansing of, 
114 
to dye black, 116-118 
treatment of, in gen- 
eral, 98, 99 
drying, 121, 122 
dyeing of, 98-122 
fancy, changeant, 121 
cleansing of, 114, 115 
decolorizing of, 115 
definition of, 114 
dyeing, 114-122 
freeing from fat, 115 
ombre, 120, 121 
to dye bronze, 120 
to dye fashionable colors, 

120 
to dye gold, 120 
to dye green, 120 
to dye olive, 120 
goose and duck r to dye black, 

119 
ostrich, cleansing, 100 
decolorizing, 100, 101 
dyeing, 100-113 
freeing from grease, 101, 

102 
treatment of, in general, 
98,99 
parrot, to dye black, 120 
peacock, to dye black, 119, 

120 
pigeon, to dye black, 119 
turkey, to dye black, 118, 119 
Fibres, mixed garments and fab- 
rics of, dyeing, 167-174 
textile, and tissues, dyed, ex- 
amination of, 186-192 



INDEX. 



197 



Fibres, textile, determination of, 
as well as of fast and fugi- 
tive colors, 181-192 
to free plush from, after dye- 
ing, 174: 

vegetable, determination of, 
181,182 
Fine Washing, "7-79 

Flannels, washing of, 58, 59 

Fluids, cleansing, 176, 177 

Fol, J., methods of testing dyed 

fabrics of, 187-192 
French oil of turpentine, 18 
Fruit- stains, 45, 46 
Fustic and quercitron, to dye silk 

garments with, 127 



Gold galloons, to wash, (jo 
Goose" and duck feathers, to dye 

black, 119 
Grass-stains, 48 

Grease, erasive soap to remove, 
from clothing, 176 
extractor, 178 
freeing ostrich feathers from, 

101, 102 
spots, scouring ball for, 180 
stains, 42 

smaller, in general, 47,48 
Green dyes, testing of, 190, 191 

scouring ball, 179 
Ground-tones, materials for, 139 
Grouvelle's bleaching fluid, 38 



GALLOONS, gold, to wash, 65 
silk and silver, to clean, 64 
Ganteine, 181 
Garment dyer, directions for the, 

54-56 
Garments and fabrics, cotton and 
linen, dyeing, 155- 
167 
of mixed fibres, dye- 
ing, 167-174 
silk, scouring ball for, 

179 
woollen, dyeing, 139- 
155 
and ribbons, silk, dyeing, 123- 

139 
dyeing, 123-174 
in general, examination of, 
186-192 
Gauze, white, to wash, 68, 69 
Gelatine-stains, 48 
Gelatinized benzol, 43, 44 
German oil of turpentine, 18 
Gloves, dyeing and cleansing of, 
92-98 
ganteine for cleaning, 181" 
saponine for cleaning, 181 
to dye blue, 96, 97 
to dye green, 97 
to dye red, 96 
to dye violet, 96 
to dye, with aniline colors, 96- 

98 
to dye yellow and brown, 97 
Glue-stains, 48 
Glycerin, 36 
Gold embroideries, to wash, 65 

13 



HEADS, to dye black, 120 
Hydrocarbons, used, purifica- 
tion of, 25, 26 
Hydrochloric acid, 40, 54 
Hypochlorites, bleaching straw- 
hats with, 85, 86 
Hyposulphite of sodium, 37 

to bleach straw-hats 
with, 86, 87 



INDIGO sulphate, preparation of, 
142 
Ink and iron-mould stains, 49-51 
Iron-black, chlorine solution for, 
127 
English, to dye silk gar- 
ments, 127 
English, preparation of, 128 
mould and ink-stains, 49-51 
nitrate of, preparation of, 128 



TAVELLE, eau de, 38, 127 
V Judlin, M., introduction of 

dry or chemical cleansing 

by, 17 



K 



ID gloves, cleansing, 93, 94 
dyeing, 94-98 
mixture for cleansing, 93, 

94 
to dye black, 94, 95 
to dye brown, 95 
to dye gray, 95 
to dye morocco-red, 95 



198 



INDEX. 



Kid gloves, undressed, cleansing, 

92, 93 
Kingfishers, skins of, to dye black, 

120 



LACES and embroideries, silver, 
to cleanse, 65 
to wash, 66-68 
white, washing of, 61-63 
Leather, to dye with aniline colors, 

95,96 
LeClerc's scouring liquid, 178 
Lightning eradicator, 178 
Lime, chloride of, 38, 39 

apparatus for preparing 

solution of, 83-85 
bleaching straw hats with, 
82-85 
stains, 49 
Linen and cotton garments and 
fabrics, dyeing, 155- 
167 
to dye black, 156, 157 
bordeaux, 158, 

159, 161 
bright blue, 160 
bright green, 161 
chamois, 160 
chrome-yellow, 

162 
coffee-brown, 158 
cream, 164 
dark brown, 157, 

158 
dark colors, 166, 

167 
dark green, 161, 

162 
fancy colors, 166, 

167 
flesh color, 161 
gensdarme, 166 
gray, 163, 164 
green, 161, 162 
heliotrope, 162, 

163 
light colors, 166 
marine-blue, 159 
May green, 161 
medium colors, 

166 
mode, 164, 165 
olive, 165, 166 
olive-brown, 166 



Linen and cotton garments and 
fabrics, to dye 
orange, 161 
pensee, 162, 163 
ponceau, 160 
potash blue, 159, 

160 
rose color, 163 
Turkish red, 160 
yellow, 162 
embroidered and woven with 

gold, to wash, 71 
scouring water to remove rust- 
spots from, 177 
Lye stains, 49 



MAGPIES, skins of, to dye black. 
120 
Merino, to cleanse, 73 
I Milk- and coffee-stains, 46, 47 
I Mixed fibres, garments and fabrics 

of, dyeing, 167-174 
Mordant, acetate of alumina, 158 
for silk garments, 125, 126 
tin, 131, 160 
I Muslin de laine, washing garments 
of, 60, 61 
batists, etc., to wash, 69 
embroidered and woven with 
gold, to wash, 71 



NANKEEN, to wash, 70, 71 
Neckties, silk, to cleanse, 74 
Nitrate of iron, preparation of, 128 
Nitric acid stains, 49 
Nuts, green, stains from, 48 



OIL of turpentine, 17, 18 
paint and varnish 

stains, 44 
"spots, scouring ball 
for, 180 

stains, removal of, 
30 
Ostrich feathers, borde, dark mir- 
ror, light border, 
112, 113 
light mirror, dark 
border, 111, 112 
bordered, dark mirror, 
light border, 112, 
113 



INDEX 



199 



Ostrich feathers bordered, light 
mirror, dark border, 
111, 112 
cleansing, 100 
decolorizing. 100, 101 
freeing from grease, 101, 

102 
ombre, tiicolored, 109-111 
remarks on dyeing, 109 
shaded, tricolored, 109- 

111 
stretching of, in a frame, 

109, 110 
to dye admiral, 108 

azure, 106 

bamboo, 106 

beige, 107, 108 

black, 103-105 

bronze, 105 

buton d'or, 106, 107 

butter, 106, 107 

cardinal, 107 

chartreuse, 108 

ciel, 106 

coq roche, 106, 107 

coquilicot, 107 

cream, 105 

cresson, 108 

dull fiery tones, 108 
yellow-green, 108 

Etna, 108 

garnet, 107 

gold, 105, 107 

gray, 107 

-blue colors, 109 

green, 105 

-blue colors, 109 

heliotrope, 107 

ivory, 105 

loutre, 109 

maize, 106 

mandarin, 106, 107 

marine, 108 

maroon, 109 

olive, 105, 108 

paille, 106 

pale blue, 106 

yellow-green, 108 

parme, 107 

prune, 107 

rose, 106 

Russe, 109 

salmon, 106 

Siam, 107, 108 

tobacco, 107, 108 



Ostrich feathers, to dye Venus, 106 
Vesuve, 108 
vieux-rose, 108 
treatment of, in general. 

98,99 
white, treatment of, 102 
Oxalate, acid, of potassium, 40 
Oxalic acid, 40, 55 
1 Ox-gall, 40, 41, 56 

scouring water, 177 
soap, 175 



PARROT feathers, to dye black, 
120 
Peacock feathers, to dye black, 

119, 120 
Petroleum benzine, 19 
Pickling silk garments, 125 
Pigeon feathers, drying, 122 

to dye black, 119 
Pitch-spots, scouring ball for, 179, 

180 
Plush, to clean, 71, 72 

to free from fibres, after dye- 
ing, 174 
Potassium, acid oxalate or bin- 

oxalate of, 40 
Punch stains, 48 

Pusch's method for distinguishing 
benzol, 20 



QUERCITRON and fustic, to dye 
silk garments with, 127 



RAMSEY'S bleaching fluid, 38 
Red dyes, testing of, 189, 190 
Resin-spots, scouring ball for, 180 
stains, 44, 45 

removal of, 30 
Ribbons and garments, silk, dye- 
ing, 123-139 
Rust-spots, scouring water for re- 
moving from linen, 177 



SALT of sorrel, 40 
tin, 37, 38 
Saponine, 181 
Satin, cleansing of, 63 

silk, etc., removal of stains 

from, 42 
white, to cleanse, 73, 74 



200 



INDEX. 



Schweitzer's reagent, 182 
Scouring- balls, 179, 180 
liquid, Le Clerc's, 178 
waters, 177 
Shading box, the, 110 
Shawls, embroidered silk, to 
cleanse, 74 
and borders, woollen, with 
colored embroidery, wash- 
ing of, 60 
Sheepskins, to dye, 154, 155 

white, to cleanse and wash, 78 
Silk and silver galloons, to clean, 
64 
and wool, combined method 
of dyeing black, 169 
determination of vegeta- 
ble fibres in, 183-185 
black, to clean, 63 

and wash, 75 
to renovate, 64 
crape, white, to wash, 68 
damask, cleansing of, 63 
detection of, in wool, 185, 

186 
determination of, 183 
fabrics and tissues, to wash, 
65, 66 
dyes for, 125 
to cleanse, 73-75 
garments and fabrics, scour- 
ing ball for, 179 
and ribbons, dyeing, 123- 

139 
mordanting, 125, 126 
preparation of, for dyeing, 

123, 124 
to dye alkaline blue, 133 
beige, 136 
black, 125-128 
bordeaux, 130 
bright green, 136 
red, 131 
arail, 132 
cardinal, 131 
chartreuse, 136 
ciel, 133 

cinnamon-brown, 138 
coffee-brown, 129, 130 
cream, 132 
cresson, 137 
dark brown, 128, 129 
deep black, 126, 127 
dull fiery tones, 135 
yellow-green, 137 



Silk garments, to dye English iron* 
black, 127 
fancy colors, 138, 139. 
garnet, 131 
gensdarme, 134 
gold, 130 
gray, 136 
gray -blue, 135 
green, 137 
heliotrope, 134 
ivory, 132 
lustrous black, 125, 

126 
mandarin, 138 
marine-blue, 133 
May green, 136 
moss-green, 137 
olive, 138 
pale blue, 133 
green, 137 
yellow -green, 136 
peacock-blue, 134, 135 
pensee, 138 
ponceau, 131 
prune, 134 
rose color, 132 
Eussia-green, 137 
salmon, 132 
scarlet, 132 
Siam, 135 

silver-gray, 135, 136 
steel-blue, 135 
tobacco-brown, 130 
Vesuve, 135 
vieux-rose, 136 
with fustic and quer- 
citron, 127 
yellow, 138 
treatment of, with chlo- 
rine, 126, 127 
washing, 125 
ribbons, cleansing of, 63 
satin, etc., removal of stains 

from, 42 
treatment of articles of, 23 
white, to clean, 63, 64 
Silks, blue, to cleanse, 75 

olive-green, to cleanse, 75 
violet, to cleanse, 75 
Silver and silk galloons, to clean, 
64 
laces and embroideries to 
cleanse, 65 
Sizing, 174 
Skins, drying, 122 



INDEX. 



201 



Skins of kingfishers and magpies, 
to dye black, 120 
to dye black, 120 
Soap, erasive, to remove stains and 
grease from clothing, 176 
for cleansing cloth and tissues, 

180 
for removing stains, 176 
ox-gall j 175 
Soaps, and compounds for the re- 
moval of stains, preparation 
of, 175-181 
mottled, 56 
soft potash, 56 
Soda, carbonate of, 55, 56 
Sodium bisulphate, imparting of, 
to the dye-bath, 140 
hyposulphite of, 37 

to bleach straw hats with, 
86,87 
sulphite of, to bleach straw 
hats with, 86, 87 
Sorrel, salt of, 40 
Soup-stains, 47, 48 
Spirits of wine and alcohol, 35 
Stains, acid, 48, 49 

agents for the removal of, 33 

art of removing, 32-56 

beer, 48 

blood, 52 

dirt, nature of, 17 

dust, 41 

erasive soap to remove, from 

clothing, 176 
from green nuts, 48 
fruit, 45, 46 
gelatine, 48 
glue, 48 
grass, 48 
grease, 42 

ink and iron mould, 49-51 
lime, 49 
lye, 49 

milk and coffee, 46, 47 
nitric acid, 49 

of red wine, cherries, whortle- 
berries, etc., 46 
oil-paint, removal of, 30 
preparation of soaps and com- 
pounds for the removal of, 
175-181 
punch, 48 
removal of, from silk, satin, 

etc. , 42 
resin, removal of, 30 



Stains, resin, tar, or wagon-grease, 
44,45 
smaller grease, in general, 47, 

48 
soap for removing, 176 
soup, 47, 48 
sour wine, 49 
stearin and wax, 45 
6ugar, 48 

table showing best means of 
cleansing any frabric from, 
52,53 
tools for removing, 41 
unknown derivation, 41 
urine, 49 
varieties of, 32 
.wine, 48 

vinegar, 49 
Stannous chloride, 37, 38 
Steam, 54 

Stearin and wax stains, 45 
Straw hats, bleaching of, 80-87 
and dyeing of, 79-91 
dyeing of, 87-91 
to dye black, 87, 88 
catechu-brown, 90 
chestnut-brown, 89 
Havana-brown, 90 
maroon, 90 
medium brown, 89 
silver-gray, 88, 89 
the cheapest brown, 

89,90 
violet, 90 
with aniline colors, 

90,91 

yellow, 90 

washing of, 79, 80 

Suede gloves, cleansing, 92, 93 

Sugar stains, 48 

Sulphite of sodium, to bleach straw 

hats with, 86, 87 
Sulphuric acid, 54 
Sulphuring chamber, 78 
Sulphurous acid, 54 

to bleach straw hats with, 



TAFFETA, black, to wash, 71 
white, to wash, 71 
Tails, to dye black, 120 
Tampion, the, 21 
Tar-stains. 44, 45 
Tartaric acid, 39, 40 



202 



INDEX. 



Textile fibres and tissues, dyed, 
determination of, as 
well as of fast and 
fugitive colors, 
181-192 
examination of, 186 
-192 
Tin mordant, 131, 160 

salt, 37, 38 
Tissues and textile fibres, dyed, 
examination, of, 186-192 
soap for cleansing, 180 
Tools for removing stains, 41 
Turkey feathers, to dye black, 118, 

119 
Turpentine, oil of, 17, 18 



u 



RINE stains, 49 



VARNISH and oil-paint stains, 
44 
Vegetable fibre, affinity of the, for 
coloring-matters, 155, 156 
fibres, determination of, 181, 
182 
Veils, to wash, 69, 70 
Velvet, genuine, to dye, 139 
to dye black, 157 
to restore the pile of, 72 
Velveteens, to clean, 71, 72 
Velvets, to clean, 71, 72 
Vinegar spots, scouring ball for, 
180 
wine, stains, 49 
Violet dyes, testing of, 191, 192 



WAGON-GREASE stains, 44, 45 
Washing and cleansing black 
silk, 75 
white sheepskins, 78 
calicoes, 70 
cotton goods and fabrics, 

70 
embroidered caps, 71 
cloths, 71 
fabrics, 71 
linen, 71 
muslin, 71 
fine, 57-79 
muslins, batists, etc., 69 
flannels, 58, 59 



Washing garments of muslin de 
laine, 60, 61 
gold embroideries, 65 

galloons, 65 
laces, 66-68 
machines for drv cleansing, 23, 

24 
nankeen, 70, 71 
silk fabrics and tissues, 65, 66 
straw-hats, 79, 80 
taffeta, 71 
veils, 69, 70 

white curtains, laces, and em- 
broideries, 61-63 
white gauze, 68, 69 
woollen goods, 57, 58 

shawls and borders with 
colored embroidery, 60 
Water, chlorine, 39 
Javelle, 127 
of ammonia, 35, 36, 55 
Waters, scouring, 177 
Wax and stearin stains, 45 

spots, scouring ball for, 179. 
180 
Whortleberry stains, 46 
Wilson's bleaching fluid, 38 
Wine, red, stains, 46 
sour, stains, 49 
spots, scouring ball for, ISO 
stains, 48 
vinegar stains, 49 
Wings, drving, 122 
to dye" black, 120 
treatment of, in general, 98, 99 
Winkler's cleansing fluid, 176 
Wool and cotton, combined method 
of dyeing black,167- 
169 
combined method of 

dyeing brown, 169 
combined method of 

dyeing gray, 169 
combined method of 
dyeing green and 
gensdarme blue, 170 
combined method of 
dyeing pensee, 170 
combined method of 
dyeing silver-arav. 
170 
combined method of 
dveins: violet-grav. 
169, 170 



INDEX. 



203 



Wool and cotton, to dye black, 170, 
171 
to dye black and 

white, 173 
to dye bordeaux, 172 
to dye brown, 171, 171 
to dye changeaut, 173 
to dye cream- and 

rose-color, 173 
to dye green, 172. 171 
to dye marine-blue, 

172 
to dye May green, 172 
to dye olive, 174 
to dye Russia-green, 
172 
and silk, combined method of 
dyeing black, 169 
determination of vege- 
table fibres in, 183- 
185 
detection of, in silk, 185, 186 
determination of, 182, 183 
fibre, affinity of, for coloring 
matters, 139 
Woollen blankets, white, to 
cleanse, 78, 79 
garments and fabrics, dyeing, 
139-155 
fancy colors for, 153, 154 
to dye alkaline blue, 148 
to dye archil-brown, 142 
to dye beaver-black, 141 
to dye beige, 148 
to dye Bismarck, 147 
to dye black, 140, 141 
to dye bordeaux, 144. 145 
to dye bright blue, 147 
to dye bright green, 149 
to dye bronze, 151 
to dye chartreuse, 149 



Woolen garments and fabrics, to 

dye chrome-brown, 142, 

143 
to dye coffee-brown, 144 
to dye cresson, 149 
to dye dark brown, 142 
to dye gray, 148 
to dye Havana, 153 
to dye imperial black, 140, 

141 
to dye marine-blue, 145, 

146 
to dye May green, 149 
to dye mode, 151 
to dye moss green, 150 
to dye naphthol black, 

140 
to dye olive-green, 150 
to dye pensee, 162 
to dye ponceau, 146, 147 
to dye potash black, 141 
to dye prune, 151, 152 
to dye red-brown, 145 
to dye Russia-green, 149, 

150 
to dye sanders brown, 143, 

144 
to dye wood-brown, 143 
to dye yellow, 152, 153 
washing, 140 
goods, mixture for cleaning, 41 
soiled or stained, to 

cleanse, 73 
washing of, 57, 58 
white, bleaching of, 59, 60 
Woolly articles, raising the pile of, 
31 



YELLOW dyes, testing of, 188, 
189 



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Giving full instructions for reducing drafts, as well as the methods of 
spooling and making out harness for cross drafts and finding any re- 
quired reed; with calculations and tables of yarn. By Frederic T. 
Ashton, Designer, West Pittsfield, Mass. With fifty-two illustrations. 
One vol. folio #6.co 

ASKINSON. — Perfumes and their Preparation : 

A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing Complete 
Directions for Making Handkerchief Perfumes, Smelling-Salts, 
Sachets, Fumigating Pastils ; Preparations for the Care of the Skin, 
the Mouth, the Hair; Cosmetics, Hair Dyes, and other Toilet 
Articles. By G. W. Askinson. Translated from the German by IsiDOR 
Furst. Revised by Charles Rice. 32 Illustrations. 8vo. $3.00 

BAIRD.— Miscellaneous Papers on Economic Questions. 
By Henry Carey Baird. {In preparation.) 

3AIRD— The American Cotton Spinner, and Manager's and 
Carder's Guide: 
A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning ; giving the Dimensions and 
Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calculations, etc. ; with 
notices of recent Improvements : together with Rules and Examples 
lor making changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. 
Compiled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird. i2mo. 



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BAIRD.— Standard Wages Computing Tables : 

An Improvement in all former Methods of Computation, so arranged 
that wages for days, hours, or fractions of hours, at a specified rate 
per day or hour, may be ascertained at a glance. By T. Spangler 
Baird. Oblong folio $5.00 

SAKER. — Long- Span Railway Bridges: 

Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and 
Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type 
Systems of Construction; with numerous Formulae and Tables. By 
B. Baker. i2mo. $1.50 

BAKER.— The Mathematical Theory of the Steam-Engine : 
With Rules at length, and Examples worked out for the use of 
Practical Men. By T. Baker, C. E., with numerous Diagrams. 
Sixth Edition, Revised by Prof. J. R. Young. i2mo. . 75 

BARLOW. — The History and Principles of Weaving, by 
Hand and by Power : 
Reprinted, with Considerable Additions, from " Engineering," with 
a chapter on Lace-making Machinery, reprinted from the Journal of 
the " Society of Arts." By Alfred Barlow. With several hundred 
illustrations. 8vo., 443 pages $10.00 

BARR. — A Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal: 
Including descriptions of various mechanical devices for the Eco- 
nomic Generation of Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether solid, 
liquid or gaseous. 8vo. ....... $2.50 

BARR. — A Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers : 
Including Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Materials, 
together with a Description of Approved Safety Apparatus, Steam 
Pumps, Injectors and Economizers in actual use. By Wm. M. Barr. 
204 Illustrations. 8vo $3.00 

BAUERMAN.-A Treatise on the Metallurgy of Iron : 

Containing Outlines of the History of Iron Manufacture, Methods of 
Assay, and Analysis of Iron Ores, Processes of Manufacture of Iron 
and Steel, etc., etc. By H. Bauerman, F. G. S., Associate of the 
Royal School of Mines. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings from Drawings by J. B, 
Jordan. i2mo $2.oc 

BAYLES. — House Drainage and Water Service : 

In Cities, Villages and Rural Neighborhoods. With Incidental Con. 
sideration of Certain Causes Affecting the Healthfulness of Dwell- 
ings. By James C. Bayles, Editor of " The Iron Age" and " The 
Metal Worker." With numerous illustrations. 8vo. cloth, $3.00 

BEANS. — A Treatise on Railway Curves and Location of 
Railroads : 
By E. W. Beans, C. E. Illustrated. i2mo. Tucks . $1.50 

BECKETT.— A Rudimentary Treatise on Clocks, and Watches 

and Bells : 

By Sir Edmund Beckett, Bart., LL. D., Q. C. F. R. A. S. With 

numerous illustrations. Seventh Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 

I2mo $2.25 



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BELL. — Carpentry Made Easy: 

Or, The Science and Art of Framing on a New and Improved 
System. With Specific Instructions for Building Balloon Frames, Bam 
Frames, Mill Frames, "Warehouses, Church Spires, etc. Comprising 
also a System of Bridge Building, with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and 
valuable Tables. Illustrated by forty-four plates, comprising nearly 
200 figures. By William E. Bell, Architect and Practical Builder. 
8vo. . $5.00 

BEMROSE. — Fret-Cutting and Perforated Carving: 

With fifty-three practical illustrations. By W. Bemrose, Jr. i vol. 
quarto .......... $2.50 

BEMROSE. — Manual of Buhl-work and Marquetry: 

With Practical Instructions for Learners, and ninety colored designs. 
Bv W. Bemrose, Tr. i vol. quarto .... $3.00 

BEMROSE.— Manual of Wood Carving: 

With Practical Illustrations for Learners of the Art, and Original and 
Selected Designs. By William Bemrose, Jr. W'ith an Intro- 
duction by Llewellyn Jewitt, F. S. A., etc. With 128 illustra- 
tions, 4to. $2.50 

BILLINGS.— Tobacco : 

Its History, Variety, Culture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Various 
Modes of Use. By E. R. Billings. Illustrated by nearly 200 
engravings. 8vo. $3. of 

BIRD. — The American Practical Dyers' Companion: 

Comprising a Description of the Principal Dye-Stuffs and Chemicals 
used in Dyeing, their Natures and Uses ; Mordants, and How Made ; 
with the best American, English, French and German processes for 
Bleaching and Dyeing Silk, Wool, Cotton, Linen, Flannel, Felt* 
Dress Goods, Mixed and Hosiery Yarns, Feathers, Grass, Felt, Fur, 
Wool, and Straw Hats, Jute Yarn, Vegetable Ivory, Mats, Skins, 
Furs, Leather, etc., etc. By Wood, Aniline, and other Processes, 
together with Remarks on Finishing Agents, and Instructions in the 
Finishing of Fabrics, Substitutes for Indigo, Water-Proofing of 
Materials, Tests and Purification of Water, Manufacture of Aniline 
and other New Dye Wares, Harmonizing Colors, etc., etc. ; embrac- 
ing in all over 800 Receipts for Colors and Shades, accompanied by 
170 Dyed Samples of Raw Materials and Fabrics. By F. J. Bird, 
Practical Dyer, Author of " The Dyers' Hand-Book. " 8vo. $10.00 

BLINN. — A Practical Workshop Companion for Tin, Sheet- 
Iron, and Copper-plate Workers : 
Containing Rules for describing various kinds of Patterns used by 
Tin, Sheet-Iron and Copper-plate Workers; Practical Geometry; 
Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids ; Tables of the Weights of 
Metals, Lead-pipe, etc. ; Tables of Areas and Circumference* 
of Circles ; Japan, Varnishes, Lackers, Cements, Compositions, etc., 
etc. By Leroy J. Blinn, Master Mechanic. With One Hundred 
and Seventy Illustrations. 121110. . $2.50 



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BOOTH. — Marble Worker's Manual: 

Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in general, theil 
Cutting, Working and Polishing ; Veneering of Marble ; Mosaics ; 
Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, 
Secrets, etc., etc. Translated from the French by M. L. Booth. 
With an Appendix concerning American Marbles. i2mo., cloth $1.50 
BOOTH and MORFIT.— The Encyclopaedia of Chemistry, 
Practical and Theoretical : 
Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
Geology, Medicine and Pharmacy. By James C. Booth, Melter 
and RVfiner in the United States Mint, Professor of Applied Chem- 
istry in the Franklin Institute, etc., assisted by Campbell Morfit, 
author of " Chemical Manipulations," etc. Seventh Edition. Com- 
plete in one volume, royal 8vo., 978 pages, with numerous wood-cuts 
and other illustrations * $3-5° 

BRAM WELL.— The Wool Carder's Vade-Mecum* 

A Complete Manual of the Art of Carding Textile Fabrics. By W» 
C. Bramwell. Third Edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. 
Pp. 400. i2mo $2.50 

BRANNT.-A Practical Treatise on Animal and Vegetable 
Fats and Oils : 
Comprising both Fixed and Volatile Oils, their Physical and Chemi- 
cal Properties and Uses, the Manner of Extracting and Refining 
them, and Practical Rules for Testing them ; as well as the Manu- 
facture of Artificial Butter, Lubricants, including Mineral Lubricating 
Oils, efcc., and on Ozokerite. Edited chiefly from the German of 
Drs. Karl Schaedler, G. W. Askinson, and Richard Brunner, 
with Additions and Lists of American Patents relating to the Extrac- 
tion, Rendering, Refining, Decomposing, and Bleaching of Fats and 
Oils. By William T. Brannt. Illustrated by 244 engravings. 
739 pages. Svo $7.50 

BRANNT. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Soap 
and Candles : 
Based upon the most Recent Experiences in the Practice and Science; 
comprising the Chemistry, Raw Materials, Machinery, and Utensils 
and Various Processes of Manufacture, including a great variety of 
formulas. Edited chiefly from the German of Dr. C. Deite, A. 
Engelhardt, Dr. C. Schaedler and others; with additions and lists 
of American Patents relating to these subjects. By Wm. T. Brannt. 
Illustrated by 163 engravings. 677 pages. 8vo. . . #7.50 

BRANNT.— A Practical Treatise on the Raw Materials and the 
Distillation and Rectification of Alcohol, and the Prepara- 
tion of Alcoholic Liquors, Liqueurs, Cordials, Bitters, etc.: 
Edited chiefly from the German of Dr. K. Stammer, Dr. F. Eisner, 
and E. Schubert. By Wm. T. Brannt. Illustrated by thirty-one 
engravings. i2mo. • $2. so 






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BRANNT— WAHL.- The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book: 

Containing several thousand Receipts covering the latest, most *ra 
portant, and most useful discoveries in Chemical Technology, anc 
their Practical Application in the Arts and the Industries. Edited 
chiefly from the German of Drs. Winckler, Eisner, Heintze, Mier- 
zinski, Jacobsen, Koller, and Heinzerling, with additions by Wm. 'I, 
Brannt and Wm. H. Wahl, Ph. D. Illustrated by 78 engravings. 
i2mo. 495 pages ........ $2 00 

BROWN. — Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements: 
Embracing all those which are most important in Dynamics, Hy- 
draulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, Steam-Engines, Mill and other 
Gearing, Presses, Horology and Miscellaneous Machinery; and in- 
cluding many movements never before published, and several of 
which have only recently come into use. By Henry T. Brown, 
i2mo $I.OG 

BUCKMASTER.— The Elements of Mechanical Physics: 
By J. C. Buckmaster. Illustrated with numerous engravings. 
I2mo $1.50 

BULLOCK.— The American Cottage Builder : 

A Series of Designs, Plans and Specifications, from $200 to $20,000, 
for Homes for the People ; together with Warming, Ventilation, 
Drainage, Painting and Landscape Gardening. By John Bullock, 
Architect and Editor of " The Rudiments of Architecture and 
Building," etc., etc. Illustrated by 75 engravings. 8vo. $3-59 

BULLOCK. — The Rudiments of Architecture and Building: 
For the use of Architects, Builders, Draughtsmen, Machinists, En- 
gineers and Mechanics. Edited by John Bullock, author of " The 
American Cottage Builder." Illustrated by 250 Engravings. 8vo. $3.50 

BURGH. — Practical Rules for the Proportions of Modern 
Engines and Boilers for Land and Marine Purposes. 
By N. P. Burgh, Engineer. i2mo. . . . . $ 1. 50 

BYLES. — Sophisms of Free Trade and Popular Political 

Economy Examined. 

By a Barrister (Sir John Barnard Byles, Judge of Common 

Pleas). From the Ninth English Edition, as published by the 

Manchester Reciprocity Association. i2mo. . . . $1.25 

BOWMAN.— The Structure of the Wool Fibre in its Relation 
to the Use of Wool for Technical Purposes : 
Being the substance, with additions, of Five Lectures, deliverea at 
the request of the Council, to the members of the Bradford Technical 
College, and the Society of Dyers and Colorists. By F. H. Bow- 
man, D. Sc, F. R. S. E., F. L. S. Illustrated by 32 engravings. 
8vo £6.50 

BYRNE. — Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engi- 
neer: 
Comprising the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abi-a^ve 
Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing 
aad Lackering, Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and 



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Polishing, etc. By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 185 wood en- 
gravings. 8vo. ........ $5.00 

BYRNE. — Pocket-Book for Railroad and Civil Engineers: 

Containing New, Exact and Concise Methods for Laying out Railroad 
Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings ; the Staking out of 
work ; Levelling ; the Calculation of Cuttings ; Embankments ; Earth- 
work, etc. By Oliver Byrne. i8mo., full bound, pocket-book 
form #i-7S 

BYRNE.— The Practical Metal-Worker's Assistant : 

Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry; the Arts of Working all Metali 
and Alloys; Forging of Iron and Steel; Hardening and Tempering; 
Melting and Mixing; Casting and Founding ; Works in Sheet Metal; 
the Processes Dependent on the Ductility of the Metals; Soldering; 
and the most Improved Processes and Tools employed by Metal- 
workers. With the Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to 
Manufacturing Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from 
the works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, 
Scoffern, Clay, Fairbairn and others. By Oliver Byrne. A new, 
revised and improved edition, to which is added an Appendix, con- 
taining The Manufacture of Russian Sheet- Iron. By John Percy, 
M. D., F. R. S. The Manufacture of Malleable Iron Castings, and 
Improvements in Bessemer Steel. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and 
Engineer. With over Six Hundred Engravings, Illustrating every 
Branch of the Subject. 8vo $S-°° 

BYRNE.— The Practical Model Calculator: 

For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, Naval 
Architect, Miner and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 8vo., nearly 
600 pages ......... 34.50 

CABINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 

Comprising a Collection of Designs for various Styles of Furniture. 
Illustrated by Forty-eight Large and Beautifully Engraved Plates. 
Oblong, 8vo $2.00 

CALLINGHAM.— Sign Writing and Glass Embossing: 

A Complete Practical Illustrated Manual of the Art. By James 
Callingham. i2mo $1.50 

CAMPIN. — A Practical Treatise on Mechanical Engineering: 
Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Work* 
shop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture of Steam* 
Engines, etc. With an Appendix on the Analysis of Iron and Iron 
Ores. By Fbancis Campin, C. E. To which are added, Observations 
on the Construction of Steam Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces 
used for Smoke Prevention ; with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. 
Armstrong, C. E., and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating th« 
Change Wheels for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel* 
cutting Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, Includ- 
ing Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking and 
Expansion ; and the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. Ede. Svo. 
Illustrated with twenty-nine plates and 100 wood engravings $5.03 



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CAREY.— A Memoir of Henry C. Carey. 

By Dr. Wm. Elder. With a portrait. 8vo., cloth . . 75 

CAREY.— The Works of Henry C. Carey : 

Harmony of Interests : Agricultural, Manufacturing and Commer* 

cial. 8vo. #i.5C 

Manual of Social Science. Condensed from Carey's " Principles 
of Social Science." By Kate McKean. i vol. i2mo. . #2.25 
Miscellaneous Works. With a Portrait. 2 vols. 8vo. $ 10.00 

Past, Present and Future. 8vo. $2.50 

Principles of Social Science. 3 volumes, 8vo. . . $7.50 
The Slave-Trade, Domestic and Foreign; Why it Exists, and 
How it may be Extinguished (1853). 8vo. . . , $2.00 
The Unity of Law : As Exhibited in the Relations of Physical, 
Social, Mental and Moral Science (1872). 8vo. . . $3.50 

CLARK. — Tramways, their Construction and Working : 

Embracing a Comprehensive History of the System. With an ex^ 
haustive analysis of the various modes of traction, including horse- 
power, steam, heated water and compressed air ; a description of the 
varieties of Rolling stock, and ample details of cost and working ex- 
penses. By D. Kinnear Clark. Illustrated by over 200 wood 
engravings, and thirteen folding plates. 2 vols. 8vo. • $12.50 

COLBURN.— The Locomotive Engine : 
Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimating its 
Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construction and Man- 
agement. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. i2mo. . $1.00 

COLLENS.— The Eden of Labor; or, the Christian Utopia. 
By T. Wharton Collens, author # of " Humanics," " The History 
of Charity," etc. i2mo. Paper cover, $1.00; Cloth . #1.25 

COOLEY. — A Complete Practical Treatise on Perfumery: 
Being a Hand-book of Perfumes, Cosmetics and other Toilet Articles. 
With a Comprehensive Collection of Formulae. By Arnold J. 
Cooley. i2mo #1.50 

COOPER.— A Treatise on the use of Belting for the Trans- 
mission of Power. 
With numerous illustrations of approved and actual methods of ar« 
ranging Main Driving and Quarter Twist Belts, and of Belt Fasten* 
ings. Examples and Rules in great number for exhibiting and cal- 
culating the size and driving power of Belts. Plain, Particular and 
Practical Directions for the Treatment, Care and Management o r 
Belts. Descriptions of many varieties of Beltings, together with 
chapters on the Transmission of Power by Ropes; by Iron and 
Wood Frictional Gearing; on the Strength of Belting Leather; and 
on the Experimental Investigations of Morin, Briggs, and others. Bf 
John H. Cooper, M. E. 8vo. . .... #3.50 

CRAIK. — The Practical American Millwright and MUler. 

By David Craik, Millwright. Illustrated by numerous wood en- 
gravings and two folding plates. 8vo. . • • • $5*OQ 



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CREW. — A Practical Treatise on Petroleum : 

Comprising its Origin, Geology, Geographical Distribution, History, 
Chemistry, Mining, Technology, Uses and Transportation. Together 
with a Description of Gas Wells, the Application of Gas as Fuel, etc. 
By Benjamin J. Crew. With an Appendix on the Product and 
Exhaustion of the Oil Regions, and the Geology of Natural Gas in. 
Pennsylvania and New York. By Charles A. Ashburner, M. S., 
Geologist in Charge Pennsylvania Survey, Philadelphia. Illustrated 
by 70 engravings. 8vo. 508 pages .... $5.00 

CROSS.-— The Cotton Yarn Spinner: 

Showing how the Preparation should be arranged for Different 
Counts of Yarns by a System more uniform than has hitherto been 
practiced; by having a Standard Schedule from which we make all 
our Changes. By Richard Cross. 122 pp. i2mo. . 75 

CRISTIANL— A Technical Treatise on Soap and Candles: 
With a Glance at the Industry of Fats and Oils. By R. S. Cris- 
tiani, Chemist. Author of "Perfumery and Kindred Arts." Illus- 
trated by 176 engravings. 581 pages, 8vo. . . . $15.00 

CRISTIANI.— Perfumery and Kindred Arts: 
A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing a History of 
Perfumes from the remotest ages to the present time. A complete 
detailed description of the various Materials and Apparatus used in 
the Perfumer's Art, with thorough Practical Instruction and careful 
Formulae, and advice for the fabrication of all known preparations of 
the day, including Essences, Tinctures, Extracts, Spirits, Waters, 
Vinegars, Pomades, Powders, Paints, Oils, Emulsions, Cosmetics, 
Infusions, Pastilles, Tooth Powders and Washes, Cachous, Hair Dyes, 
Sachets, Essential Oils, Flavoring Extracts, etc. ; and full details for 
making and manipulating Fancy Toilet Soaps, Shaving Creams, 'etc., 
by new and improved methods. With an Appendix giving hints and 
advice for making and fermenting Domestic Wines, Cordials, Liquors, 
Candies, Jellies, Syrups, Colors, etc., and for Perfuming and Flavor- 
ing Segars, Snuff and Tobacco, and Miscellaneous Receipts foi 
various useful Analogous Articles. By R. S. Cristiani, Con- 
sulting Chemist and Perfumer, Philadelphia. 8vo. . • $10.00 

DAVIDSON. — A Practical Manual of House Painting, Grain- 
ing, Marbling, and Sign- Writing : 
Containing full information on the processes of House Painting in 
Oil and Distemper, the Formation of Letters and Practice of Sign- 
Writing, the Principles of Decorative Art, a Course of Elementary 
Drawing for House Painters, Writers, etc., and a Collection of Useful 
Receipts. With nine colored illustrations of Woods and Marbles, 
and numerous wood engravings. By Ellis A. Davidson. i2mo. 

DAVIES.—A Treatise on Earthy and Other Minerals and 
Mining : 
By D. C. Davies, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. Illustrated by 
76 Engravings. i2mo. ....... #5.00 



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DAVIES. — A Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining: 
By D. C. Davies, F. G. S.- Mining Engineer, Examiner of Mines* 
Quarries and Collieries. Illustrated by 148 engravings of Geological 
Formations, Mining Operations and Machinery, drawn from the 
practice of all parts of the world. 2d Edition, i2mo., 450 pages $5.06 

DAVIES.— A Treatise on Slate and Slate Quarrying: 

Scientific, Practical and Commercial. By D. C. Davies, F. G. S. f - 
Mining Engineer, etc. With numerous illustrations and folding 
plates, ismo. $2.03 

DAVIS. — A Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation and Meth-| 
ods for Preventing Corrosion and the Formation of Scale : 

By Charles T. Davis. Illustrated by 65 engravings. 8vo. $1.50 

DAVIS.— The Manufacture of Paper: 

Being a Description of the various Processes for the Fabrication, 
Coloring and Finishing of every kind of Paper, Including the Dif- 
ferent Raw Materials and the Methods for Determining their Values, 
the Tools, Machines and Practical Details connected with an intelli- 
gent and a profitable prosecution of the art, with special reference to 
the best American Practice. To which are added a History of Pa- 
per, complete Lists of Paper- Making Materials, List of American 
Machines, Tools and Processes used in treating the Raw Materials, 
and in Making, Coloring and Finishing Paper. By Charles T. 
Davis. Illustrated by 156 engravings. 608 pages, 8vo. $6.00 

DAVIS. — The Manufacture of Leather: 
Being a description of all of the Processes for the Tanning, Tawing, 
Currying, Finishing and Dyeing of every kind of Leather ; including 
the various Raw Materials and the Methods for Determining their 
Values; the Tools, Machines, and all Details of Importance con- 
nected with an Intelligent an-d Profitable Prosecution of the Art, with 
Special Reference to the Best American Practice. To which are 
added Complete Lists of all American Patents for Materials, Pro- 
cesses, Tools, and Machines for Tanning, Currying, etc. By Charles 
Thomas Davis. Illustrated by 302 engravings and 12 Samples of 
Dyed Leathers. One vol., 8vo., 824 pages . . . $io.oa 

DAWIDOWSKY— BRANNT.— A Practical Treatise on the 

Raw Materials and Fabrication of Glue, Gelatine, Gelatine 

Veneers and Foils, Isinglass, Cements, Pastes, Mucilages, 

etc. : 

Based upon Actual Experience. By F. Dawidowsky, Technical 

Chemist. Translated from the German, with extensive additions, 

including a description of the most Recent American Processes, by 

William T. Brannt, Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College 

of Eldena, Prussia. 35 Engravings. l2mo. . . . #2.50 

D£ GRAFF.— The Geometrical Stair-Builders' Guide: 

Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all its 
necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by twenty-two Steel 
Engravings ; together with the use of the most approved principle! 
of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. +t©. 

S2.50 



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DE KONINCK— DIETZ.— A Practical Manual of Chemical 
Analysis and Assaying : 

As applied to the Manufacture of Iron from its Ores, and to Cast Iron, 
Wrought Iron, and Steel, as found in Commerce. By L. L. DE 
Koninck, Dr. Sc, and E. Dietz, Engineer. Edited with Notes, by 
Robert Mallet, F. R. S., F. S. G., M. I. C. E., etc. American 
Edition, Edited with Notes and an Appendix on Iron Ores, by A. A. 
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. i2mo. . . . $2.50 

DUNCAN.— Practical Surveyor's Guide : , 

Containing the necessary information to make any person of com- 
mon capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of a teacher.' 
By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. i2mo. . . . #1.25 

DUPLAIS. — A Treatise on the Manufacture and Distillation 
of Alcoholic Liquors : 
Comprising Accurate and Complete Details in Regard to Alcohol 
from Wine, Molasses, Beets, Grain, Rice, Potatoes, Sorghum, Aspho 
del, Fruits, etc. ; with the Distillation and Rectification of Brandy, 
Whiskey, Rum, Gin, Swiss Absinthe, etc., the Preparation of Aro- 
matic Waters, Volatile Oils or Essences, Sugars, Syrups, Aromatic 
Tinctures, Liqueurs, Cordial Wines, Effervescing Wines, etc., the 
Ageing of Brandy and the improvement of Spirits, with Copio« 
Directions and Tables for Testing and Reducing Spirituous Liquors, 
etc., etc. Translated and Edited from the French of MM. Duplais, 
Aine et Jeune. By M. McKennie, M. D. To which are added the 
United States Internal Revenue Regulations for the Assessment and 
Collection of Taxes on Distilled Spirits. Illustrated by fourteen 
folding plates and several wood engravings. 743 pp. 8vo. $10 00 

BUS SAUCE. — Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of Matches, 
Gun Cotton, and Fulminating Powder. 
By Professor H. Dussauce. i2mo. . . . . $3 oa 

OYER AND COLOR-MAKER'S COMPANION: 
Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Colors, on 
the most approved principles, for all the various styles and fabrics now 
in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and plain Directions for 
Preparing, Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. i2mo. $1 25 

&DWARDS.-A Catechism of the Marine Steam-Engine, 
For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics. A Practical 
Work for Practical Men. By Emory Edwards, Mechanical Engi- 
neer. Illustrated by sixty-three Engravings, including examples of 
the most modern Engines. Third edition, thoroughly revised, with 
much additional matter. 1 2 mo. 414 pages . . . |2 00 

CDWARDS. — Modern American Locomotive Engines, 

Their Design, Construction and Management. By Emory Edwards, 
Illustrated i2mo #2.00 

&DWARDS.— The American Steam Engineer: 

Theoretical and Practical, with examples of the latest and most ap- 
proved American practice in the design and construction of Steam 
Engines and Boilers. For the use of engineers, machinists, boiler- 
w^kers, and engineering students. By Emory Edwards. Fully 
frustrated, 419 pages. i2mo. .... $2.50 



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EDWARDS. — Modern American Marine Engines, Boilers, an$ 

Screw Propellers, 

Their Design and Construction. Showing the Present Practice of 

the most Eminent Engineers and Marine Engine Builders in the 

United States. Illustrated by 30 large and elaborate plates. 4to. $5.0x5 

EDWARDS.- The Practical Steam Engineer's Guide 

In the Design, Construction, and Management of American Stationary, 
Portable, and Steam Fire- Engines, Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, 
Governors, Indicators, Pistons and Rings, Safety Valves and Steam 
Gauges. For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Steam Users. By 
Emory Edwards. Illustrated by 119 engravings. 420 pages. 
i2mo. .......... #2 50 

EISSLER.— The Metallurgy of Gold : 

A Practical Treatise 011 the Metallurgical Treatment of Gold-Bear- 
ing Ores, including the Processes of Concentration and Chlorination, 
and the Assaying, Melting, and Refining of Gold. By M. Eissler. 

With 132 Illustrations. i2mo $3.50 

EISSLER.— -The Metallurgy of Silver : 

A Practical Treatise on the Amalgamation, Roasting, and Lixiviation 
of Silver Ores, including the Assaying, Melting, and Refining of 
Silver Bullion. By M. Eissler. 124 Illustrations. 336 pp. 

I2H10 $4-25 

ELDER. — Conversations on the Principal Subjects of Political 
Economy. 
By Dr. William Elder. 8vo. . . . . #2.50 

ELDER.— Questions of the Day, 

Economic and Social. By Dr. William Elder. 8vo. . #3.00 

ERNI. — Mineralogy Simplified. 

Easy Methods of Determining and Classifying Minerals, including 
Ores, by means of the Blowpipe, and by Humid Chemical Analysis, 
based on Professor von Kobell's Tables for the Determination of 
Minerals, with an Introduction to Modern Chemistry. By Henry 
Erni, A.M., M.D., Professor of Chemistry. Second Edition, rewritten, 
enlarged and improved. i2mo. . . . . . . $3-°° 

FAIRBAIRN.— The Principles of Mechanism and Machinery 
of Transmission ■ 
Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Coupling of Shafts, and Engag- 
ing and Disengaging Gear. By Sir William Fairbairn, Bart. 
C. E. Beautifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one 
volume, i2mo $2.50 

FLEMING.— Narrow Gauge Railways in America. 

A Sketch of their Rise, Progress, and Success. Valuable Statistics 
as to Grades, Curves, Weight of Rail, Locomotives, Cars, etc. By 
Howard Fleming. Illustrated, 8vo $1 00 

FORSYTH.— Book of Designs for Headstones, Mural, and 
other Monuments : 
Containing 78 Designs. By James Forsyth. With an Introduction 
by Charles Boutell, M. A. 4 to., cloth . . - $5 °° 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 13 



FRANKEL— HUTTER.- A Practical Treatise on the Manu* 
facture of Starch, Glucose, Starch-Sugar, and Dextrine: 
Based on the German of Ladislaus Von Wagner, Professor in the 
Royal Technical High School, Buda-Pest, Hungary, and other 
authorities. By Julius Frankel, Graduate of the Polytechnic 
School of Hanover. Edited by Robert Hutter, Chemist, Practical 
Manufacturer of Starch-Sugar. Illustrated by 58 engravings, cover- 
ing every branch of the subject, including examples of the most 
Recent and Best American Machinery. 8vo., 344 pp. . #3.50 

GARDNER.— The Painter's Encyclopaedia: 

Containing Definitions of all Important Words in the Art of Plain 
and Artistic Painting, with Details of Practice in Coach, Carriage, 
Railway Car, ' House, Sign, and Ornamental Painting, including 
Graining, Marbling, Staining, Varnishing, Polishing, Lettering, 
Stenciling, Gilding, Bronzing, etc. By Franklin B. Gardner. 
158 Illustrations. i2mo. 427 pp $2.oc 

GARDNER.— Everybody's Paint Book: 

A Complete Guide to the Art of Outdoor and Indoor Painting, De- 
signed for the Special Use of those who wish to do their own work, 
and consisting of Practical Lessons in Plain Painting, Varnishing, 
Polishing, Staining, Paper Hanging, Kalsomining, etc., as well as 
Directions for Renovating Furniture, and Hints on Artistic Work for 
Home Decoration. 38 Illustrations. i2mo., 183 pp. . $1.00 

GEE. — The Goldsmith's Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Gold, 
including the Art of Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Coloring, Col- 
lecting, and Refining; the Processes of Manipulation, Recovery of 
Waste; Chemical and Physical Properties of Gold; with a New 
System of Mixing its Alloys; Solders, Enamels, and other Useful 
Rules and Recipes. By George E. Gee. i2mo. . . $1-7$ 

GEE.— The Silversmith's Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Silver, 
including the different modes of Refining and Melting the Metal ; its 
Solders; the Preparation of Imitation Alloys; Methods of Manipula- 
tion ; Prevention of Waste ; Instructions for Improving and Finishing 
the Surface of the Work ; together with other Useful Information and 
Memoranda. By George E. Gee. Illustrated. i2mo. $1-75 

GOTHIC ALBUM FOR CABINET-MAKERS: 

Designs for Gothic Furniture. Twenty-three plates. Oblong $2.00 

GRANT.— A Handbook on the Teeth of Gears : 

Their Curves, Properties, and Practical Construction. By George 
B. Grant. Illustrated. Third Edition, enlarged. 8vo. #1.50 

GREENWOOD.— Steel and Iron: 

Comprising the Practice and Theory of the Several Methods Pur- 
sued in their Manufacture, and of their Treatment in the Rolling- 
Mills, the Forge, and the Foundry. By William Henry Green- 
wood, F. C. S. With 97 Diagrams, 536 pages. i2mo. #2.00 



V 



*4 HENRY ^AREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 



GREGORY. — Mathematics for Practical Men: 

Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and 
Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates $3.00 

GRIMSHAW.— Saws : 

The History, Development, Action, Classification, and Comparison 
of Saws of all kinds. With Copious Appendices. Giving the details 
of Manufacture, Filing, Setting, Gumming, etc. Care and Use of 
Saws; Tables of Gauges; Capacities of Saw-Mills; List of Saw- 
Patents, and other valuable information. By Robert Grimshaw. 
Second and greatly enlarged edition, with Supplement, and 354 
Illustrations. Quarto $5.00 

GRISWOLD. — Railroad Engineer's Pocket Companion for thq 
Field : 
Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and Angles, 
Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary Tables for En- 
gineers; also the Art of Levelling from Preliminary Survey to the 
Construction of Railroads, intended Expressly for the Young En- 
gineer, together with Numerous Valuable Rules and Examples. By 
W. Griswold. i2mo., tucks $1-75 

GRUNER. — Studies of Blast Furnace Phenomena: 

By M. L. Gruner, President of the General Council of Mines oi 
France, and lately Professor of Metallurgy at the Ecole des Mines, 
Translated, with the author's sanction, with an Appendix, by L. D. 
B. Gordon, F. R. S. E., F. G. S. 8vo. . . . $2.50 

Hand- Book of Useful Tables for the Lumberman, Farmer and 
Mechanic: 
Containing Accurate Tables of Logs Reduced to Inch Board Meas* 
ure, Plank, Scantling and Timber Measure ; Wages and Rent, by 
Week or Month ; Capacity of Granaries, Bins and Cisterns ; Land 
Measure, Interest Tables, with Directions for Finding the Interest on 
any sum at 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 per cent., and many other Useful Tables. 
32 mo., boards. 186 pages .25 

HASERICK.— The Secrets of the Art of Dyeing Wool, Cotton, 
and Linen, 
Including Bleaching and Coloring Wool and Cotton Hosiery and 
Random Yarns. A Treatise based on Economy and Practice. By 
E. C. Haserick. Illustrated by 323 Dyed Patterns of the Yami 
or Fabrics. 8vo. ........ $7-5° 

HATS AND FELTING: 

A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical Hatter, 
Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, etc. 8vo. . . $1.25 

H OFFER. — A Practical Treatise on Caoutchouc and Gulta 
Percha, 
Comprising the Properties of the Raw Materials, and the manner or" 
Mixing and Working them ; with the Fabrication of Vulcanized and 
Hard Rubbers, Caoutchouc and Gutta Pencha Compositions, Wate* 
proof Substances, Elastic TiHssues, the Utilization of Waste, etc., etc. 
From the German of Raimund Hoffer. By W. T. Erannt. 
Illustrated i2mo * $2.50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 15 

HAUPT— RHAWN.— A Move for Better Roads : 

Essays on Road-making and Maintenance and Road Laws, for 
which Prizes or Honorable Mention were Awarded through the 
University of Pennsylvania by a Committee of Citizens of Philadel- 
phia, with a Synopsis of other Contributions and a Review by the 
Secretary, Lewis M. Haupt, A. M., C. E.; also an Introduction by 
William H. Rhawn, Chairman of the Committee. 319 pages. 
8vo. $2,OQ 

fiUGHES. — American Miller and Millwright's Assistant: 
By William Carter Hughes. i2mo. .... $1.50 

HULME. — Worked Examination Questions in Plane Geomet- 
rical Drawing : 
For the Use of Candidates for the Royal Military Academy, Wool- 
wich; the Royal Military College, Sandhurst; the Indian Civil En-, 
gineering College, Cooper's Hill ; Indian Public Works and Tele- 
graph Departments ; Royal Marine Light Infantry ; the Oxford and 
Cambridge Local Examinations, etc. By F. Edward Hulme, F. L. 
S., F. S. A., Art-Master Marlborough College. Illustrated by 300 
examples. Small quarto $2. 5a 

JERVIS.— Railroad Property: 

A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways; 
designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Managers, Offi- 
cers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Civil Engineer ©f the 
Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, etc. i2mo., cloth $2.oc 

KEENE.-A Hand-Book of Practical Gauging: 

For the Use of Beginners, to which is added a Chapter on Distilla- 
tion, describing the process in operation at the Custom-House for 
ascertaining the Strength of Wines. By James B. Keene, of H. M. 
Customs. 8vo. . . . $1^25 

KELLEY. — Speeches, Addresses, and Letters on Industrial and 
Financial Questions : 
By Hon. William D. Kelley, M. C. 544 pages, 8vo. . $3.00 

KELLOGG.— A New Monetary System : 

The only means of Securing the respective Rights of Labor and 
Property, and of Protecting the Public from Financial Revulsions.' 
By Edward Kellogg. Revised from his work on "Labor and 
' other Capital." With numerous additions from his manuscript. 
Edited by Mary Kellogg Putnam. Fifth edition. To which i* 
added a Biographical Sketch of the Author. One volume, i2mo. 
Paper cover ......... #1.00 

Bound in cloth 1.5a 

KEMLO.- Watch-Repairer's Hand-Book : 

Being a Complete Guide to the Young Beginner, in Taking Apart, 
Putting Together, and Thoroughly Cleaning the English Lever and 
other Foreign Watches, and all American Watches. By F. Kemlo, 
Practical Watchmaker. With Illustrations. I2ma • #J.2| 



*6 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

KENTISH.— A Treatise on a Box of Instruments, 

And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Log* 
rithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measuring of Tim« 
ber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. By Thomaj 
Kentish. In one volume. i2mo. .... $1.25 

KERL.- The Assayer's Manual: 

An Abridged Treatise on the Docimastic Examination of Ores, and 
Furnace and other Artificial Products. By Bruno Kerl, Professor 
in the Royal School of Mines. Translated from the German by 
William T. Brannt. Second American edition, edited with Ex- 
tensive Additions by F. Lynwood Garrison, Member of the 
American Institute of Mining Engineers, etc. Illustrated by 87 en- 
gravings. 8vo $3.00 

KICK.— Flour Manufacture . 

A Treatise on Milling Science and Practice. By Frederick Kick, 
Imperial Regierungsrath, Professor of Mechanical Technology in the 
imperial German Polytechnic Institute, Prague. Translated from 
the second enlarged and revised edition with supplement by H. H. 
P. Powles, Assoc. Memb. Institution of Civil Engineers. Illustrated 
with 28 Plates, and 167 Wood-cuts. 367 pages. 8vo. . $10.00 

KINGZETT.— The History, Products, and Processes of the 
Alkali Trade : 
Including the most Recent Improvements. By Charles Thomas 
Kingzett, Consulting Chemist. With 23 illustrations. 8vo. $2.50 

KIRK.— The Founding of Metals : 

A Practical Treatise on the Melting of Iron, with a Description of th« 
Founding of Alloys ; also, of all the Metals and Mineral Substance! 
used in the Art of Founding. Collected from original sources. By 
Edward Kirk, Practical Foundryman and Chemist. Illustrated 
Third edition. 8vo. #2.50 

LANDRIN.— A Treatise on Steel: 
Comprising its Theory, Metallurgy, Properties, Practical Working, 
and Use. By M. H. C. Landrin, Jr., Civil Engineer. Translated 
from the French, with Notes, by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and En- 
gineer. With an Appendix on the Bessemer and the Martin Pro- 
cesses for Manufacturing Steel, from the Report of Abram S. Hewitt 
United States Commissioner to the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867J 
I2mo $3-OC 

LANGBEIN. — A Complete Treatise on the Electro-Deposition 
of Metals : 
Translated from the German, with Additions, by Wm. T. Brannt. 
125 illustrations. 8vo , $4.00 

LARDNER.— The Steam-Engine : 

Fer the Use of Beginners. Illustrated. i2mo. • • • 75 

LEHNER.- The Manufacture of Ink: 

Comprising the Raw Materials, and the Preparation of Writing, 
Copying and Hektograph Inks, Safety Inks, Ink Extracts and Pow- 
ders, etc. Translated from the German of Sigmund Lehner, with 
additions by William T. Brannt. Illustrated. i2mo. $2.00 



HENRY CAREV BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 17 

LARKXNc — The Practical Brass and Iron Founder's Guide; 
A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals and 
their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improvements in thfe 
Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Process, etc., etc. Bf 
James Larkin, late Conductor of the Brass Foundry Department in 
Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, Philadelphia. New edition, 
revised, with extensive additions. i2mo. . . . $2.50 

LEROUX.— A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of 
Worsteds and Carded Yarns : 
Comprising Practical Mechanics, with Rules and Calculations applied 
to Spinning; Sorting, Cleaning, and Scouring Wools; the English 
and French Methods of Combing, Drawing, and Spinning Worsteds, 
and Manufacturing Carded Yarns. Translated from the French of 
Charles Leroux, Mechanical Engineer and Superintendent of a 
Spinning-Mill, by Horatio Paine, M. D., and A. A. Fesquet, 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by twelve large Plates. To which 
is added an Appendix, containing Extracts from the Reports of the 
International Jury, and of the Artisans selected by the Committee 
appointed by the Council of the Society of Arts, London, on Woolen 
and Worsted Machinery and Fabrics, as exhibited in the Paris Uni- 
versal Exposition, 1867. 8vo. $5.00 

LEFFEL.— The Construction of Mill-Dams : 

Comprising also the Building of Race and Reservoir Embankments 
and Head-Gates, the Measurement of Streams, Gauging of Water 
Supply, .etc. By James Leffel & Co. Illustrated by 58 engravings. 
8vo. .......... $2.50 

LESLIE.— Complete Cookery: 

Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss Leslie. 
Sixtieth thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addition of New 
Receipts. i2mo. . $1.50 

LE VAN. — The Steam Engine and the Indicator : 

Their Origin and Progressive Development; including the Most 
Recent Examples of Steam and Gas Motors, together with the Indi- 
cator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Application. By William 
Barnet Le Van. Illustrated by 305 Engravings, chiefly of IndL 
cator-Cards. 469 pp. 8vo. ...... $4.00 

LIEBER.— Assayer's Guide : 
Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for the 
Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the Ores of all 
the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and Alloys, and of 
Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. i2mo. . . . $1.25 
.Lockwood's Dictionary of Terms: 

Used in the Practice of Mechanical Engineering, embracing those 
Current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop, Foundry, Fitting, Turn- 
ing, Smith's and Boiler Shops, etc., etc., comprising upwards of Six 
Thousand Definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker, author 
of " Pattern Making." 417 pp. i2mo. . . . I3.00 



18 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

*- — " ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ — ■■ ■ *» « % 

LUKIN. — Amongst Machines: 

Embracing Descriptions of the various Mechanical Appliances used 
in the Manufacture of Wood, Metal, and other Substances. *2mo. 

*i75 

MJKIN.— The Boy Engineers: 
What They Did, and How They Did It. With 30 plates. l8mo. 

£*-75 

LUKIN.— The Young Mechanic : 

Practical Carpentry. Containing Directions for the Use of all kinds 
*>f Tools, and for Construction of Steam- Engines and Mechanical 
Models, including the Art of Turning in Wood and Metal. By John 
Lukin, Author of "The Lathe and Its Uses," etc. Illustrated. 
i2mo #1-75 

MAIN and BROWN.— Questions on Subjects Connected with 

the Marine Steam-Engine : 

And Examination Papers; with Hints for their Solution. By 

Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Royal "3iaval College, 

and Thomas Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. i2mo., cloth . $1.50 

MAIN and BROWN. — The Indicator and Dynamometer: 
With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By THOMAS 
J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass't S. Professor Royal Naval College, 
Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer 
R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. 8vo. . #1.50 

MAIN and BROWN.— The Marine Steam-Engine. 

By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at the 
Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. 
Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer R. N. Attached to the Royal NavaJ 
College. With numerous illustrations. 8vo. . . $5.00 

MAKINS.— A Manual of Metallurgy: 

By George Hogarth Makins. 100 engravings. Second edition 
rewritten and much enlarged. i2mo., 592 pages . . fe-oo 

MARTIN.— Screw-Cutting Tables, for the Use of Mechanical 
Engineers : 

Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the Threads 
of Screws of any Required Pitch ; with a Table for Making the Uni- 
versal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. Martin, Engineer. 
8vo. 50 

MICHELL.— Mine Drainage: 

Being a Complete and Practical Treatise on Direct-Acting Under, 
ground Steam Pumping Machinery. With a Description of a larg# 
number of the best known Engines, their General Utility and thd 
Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode of their Application, and 
their Merits compared with other Pumping Machinery. By Stephen 
Michell. Illustrated by 137 engravings. 8vo., 277 pages . $6.00 

MOLESWORTH.- Pocket-B®ok of Useful Formulae and 
Memoranda for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. 
By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of Civil 
Engineers / Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Railway. Full- 
bound in Pocket-book form •••••* $1.00 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 19 

MOORE. — The Universal Assistant and the Complete Me- 
chanic 1 
Containing over one million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipt^ 
Processes, Trades Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, Etc. f 
in every occupation, from the Household to the Manufactory. By 
R. Moore. Illustrated by 500 Engravings. i2mo. . $2.50 

MORRIS, — Easy Rules for the Measurement of Earthworks ; 
By means of the Prismoidal Formula, Illustrated with Numerous 
Wood-Cuts, Problems, and Examples, and concluded by an Exten* 
sive Table for finding the Solidity in cubic yards from Mean Areas. 
The whole being adapted for convenient use by Engineers, Surveyors, 
Contractors, and others needing Correct Measurements of Earthwork. 
By Elwood Morris, C. E. 8vo $1.50 

MORTON. — The System of Calculating Diameter, Circumfer- 
ence, Area, and Squaring the Circle : 
Together with Interest and Miscellaneous Tables, and other informa- 
tion. By James Morton. Second Edition, enlarged, with the 
Metric System. i2mo 50 

NAPIER.— Manual of Electro-Metallurgy: 

Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Processes, 
By James Napier. Fourth American, from the Fourth London 
edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by engravings. 8vo. 

NAPIER. — A System of Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 

By James Napier, F. C. S. A New and Thoroughly Revised Edi* 
tion. Completely brought up to the present state of the Science, 
including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors, by A. A. Fesquet, 
Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and CaxicQ 
Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. Illus- 
trated. 8vo. 422 pages $3-5o 

NEVILLE.— Hydraulic Tables, Coefficients, and Formulae, for 
finding the Discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches, 
Weirs, Pipes, and Rivers : 
Third Edition, with Additions, consisting of New Formulae for the 
Discharge from Tidal and Flood Sluices and Siphons ; general infor* 
mation on Rainfall, Catchment-Basins, Drainage, Sewerage, Watef 
Supply for Towns and Mill Power. By Tohn Neville, C. E. M. R. 
I. A. ; Fellow of the Royal Geological Society of Ireland. Thick 
l2mo $5.50 

NEWBERY. — Gleanings from Ornamental Art of every 
style ; 
Drawn from Examples in the British, South Kensington, Indian, 
Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 185 1 and 
1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In a series of 100 
exquisitely drawn Plates, containing many hundred examples. By 
Robert Newbery. 410. #12.50 

NICHOLLS.— The Theoretical and Practical Boiler-Maker and 
Engineer's Reference Book: 

Containing a variety of Useful Information for Employers of Labor, 
Foremen and Working Boiler- Makers, Iron, Copper, and Tinsmith* 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 



Draughtsmen, Engineers, the General Steam-using Public, and for the 
Use of Science Schools and Classes. By Samuel Nicholls. Illus- 
trated by sixteen plates, i2mo. ..... ^2.50 

NICHOLSON.— A Manual of the Art of Bookbinding : 

Containing full instructions in the different Branches of Forwarding, 
Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling Book-edges and 
Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illustrated. i2mo., cloth #2.25 

NICOLLS.— The Railway Builder: 

A Hand-Book for Estimating the Probable Cost of American Rail* 
way Construction and Equipment. By William J. Nicolls, CiviV 
Engineer. Illustrated, full bound, pocket-book form . #2.00 

NORMANDY.— The Commercial Handbook of Chemical An. 
alysis : 
Or Practical Instructions for the Determination of the Intrinsic or 
Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, in Trades, 
and in the Arts. By A. Normandy. New Edition, Enlarged, and 
to a great extent rewritten. By Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S., 
thick i2mo . . . $5>oQ 

NORRIS. — A Handbook for Locomotive Engineers and Ma- 
chinists : 
Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing Loco- 
motives; Manner of Setting Valves; Tables of Squares, Cubes, Areas, 
etc., etc. By Septimus Norris, M. E. New edition. Illustrated, 
l2mo #1.50 

HYSTROM. — A New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics : 
Establishing Strict Precision in the Meaning of Dynamical Terms : 
accompanied with an Appendix on Duodenal Arithmetic and Me- 
trology. By John W. Nystrom, C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. $2.oa 

WTVSTROM. — On Technological Education and the Construc- 
tion of Ships and Screw Propellers : 
For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, lata 
Acting Chief Engineer, U. S. N. Second edition, revised, with addi- 
tional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. i2mo. . $1.50 

QI'NEILL. — A Dictionary of Dyeing and Calico Printing: 
Containing a brief account of ail the Substances and Processes in 
use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics ; with Practical 
Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O'Neill, Analy- 
tical Chemist. To which is added an Essay on Coal Tar Colors and 
their application to Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet, 
Chemist and Engineer. With an appendix on Dyeing and Calico 
Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867- 8vo., 
491 pages #3.50 

jJRTON. — Underground Treasures*. 

How and Where to Find Them. A Key for the Ready Determination 
d all the Useful Minerals within the United States. By James 
ORTON, A.M., Late Professor of Natural History in Vassar College, 
N. Y.; Cor. Mem. of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, 
and of the Lyceum of Natural History, New York; author of the 
"Andes and the Amazon," etc. A New Edition., with Additions. 
Iilusirated - , e $i.$& 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 21 



OSBORN. — The Prospector's Field Book and Guide : 

In the Search for and the Easy Determination of Ores and Other 
Useful Minerals. By Prof. H. S. Osborn, LL. D., Author of 
" The Metallurgy of Iron and Steel ; " "A Practical Manual of 
Minerals, Mines, and Mining." Illustrated by 44 Engravings. 
l2mo #1.50 

OSBORN. — A Practical Manual of Minerals, Mines and Min- 
ing : 
Comprising the Physical Properties, Geologic Positions, Local Occur- 
rence and Associations of the Useful Minerals ; their Methods of 
Chemical Analysis and Assay : together with Various Systems of 
Excavating and Timbering, Brick and Masonry Work, during Driv- 
ing, Lining, Bracing and other Operations, etc. By Prof. H. S. 
Osborn, LL. D., Author of the " Metallurgy of Iron and Steel." 
Illustrated by 17 1 engravings from original drawings. 8vo. #4.50 

OVERMAN.— The Manufacture of Steel : 

Containing the Practice and Principles of Working and Making Steel. 
A Handbook for Blacksmiths and Workers in Steel and Iron, Wagon 
Makers, Die Sinkers, Cutlers, and Manufacturers of Files and Hard- 
ware, of Steel and Iron, and for Men of Science and Art. By 
Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer, Author of the " Manu- 
facture of Iron," etc. A new, enlarged, and revised Edition. By 
A. A. Fesqust, Chemist and Engineer. l2mo. . . . $1.50 

OVERMAN.-— The Moulder's and Founder's Pocket Guide : 
A Treatise or* Moulding and Founding in Green-sand, Dry-sand, Loam, 
and Cement; the Moulding of Machine Frames, Mill-gear, Hollow- 
ware, Ornaments, Trinkets, Bells, and Statues; Description of Moulds 
for Iron, Bronze, Brass, and other Metals ; Plaster of Paris, Sulphur, 
Wax, etc. ; the Construction of Melting Furnaces, the Melting and 
Founding of Metals ; the Composition of Alloys and their Nature, 
etc., etc. By Frederick Overman, M. E. A new Edition, to 
which is added a Supplement on Statuary and Ornamental Moulding, 
Ordnance, Malleable Iron Castings, etc. By A. A. Fesquet, Chem- 
ist and Engineer. Illustrated. by 44 engravings. i2mo. . $2.00, 

PAINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION;? 
Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to the ArtS 
of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, Glass-Staining, Graining, Marbling, 
Sign- Writing, Gilding on Glass, and Coach Painting and Varnishing; 
Tests for the Detection of Adulterations in Oils, Colors, etc. ; and a 
Statement of the Diseases to which Painters are peculiarly liable, with 
the Simplest and Best Remedies. Sixteenth Edition. Revised, with 
an Appendix. Containing Colors and Coloring — Theoretical and 
Practical. Comprising descriptions of a great variety of Additional 
Pigments, their Qualities and Uses, to which are added, Dryers, and 
Modes and Operations of Painting, etc. Together with Chevreul's 
Principles of Harmony and Contrast of Colors. i2mo. Cloth $1.50 

PALLETT.— The Miller's, Millwright's, and Engineer's Guide. 
By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. i2mo. . . • #2.oa 



22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUR 

PERCY. — The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. 

By John Percy, M. D., F. R. S., Lecturer on Metallurgy at tht 
Royal School of Mines, and to The Advance Class of Artillery 
Officers at the Royal Artillery Institution, Woolwich ; Author of 
" Metallurgy." With Illustrations. 8vo., paper . . 50 cts. 

PERKINS.— Gas and Ventilation : 

Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Relation 
to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Including Scientific 
Helps to Engineer-students and others. With Illustrated Diagrams, 
By E. E. Perkins. i2mo., cloth $1.25 

PERKINS AND STOWE.-A New Guide to the Sheet-iron 
and Boiler Plate Roller : 
Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and Pile* 
to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and the Sizes of 
Bars to produce Sheet-iron; the Thickness of the Bar Gaugs 
in decimals ; the Weight per foot, and the Thickness on the Bar or 
Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an inch; the Weight per 
sheet, and the Thickness on the Wire Gauge of Sheet-iron of various 
dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. per bundle; and the conversion of 
Short Weight into Long Weight, and Long Weight into Short. 
Estimated and collected by G. H. Perkins and J. G. Stowe. $2.50 

POWELL— CHANCE— HARRIS.— The Principles of Glass 

Making. 

By Harry J. Powell, B. A. Together with Treatises on Crown and 

Sheet Glass; by Henry Chance, M. A. And Plate Glass, by H. 

G. Harris, Asso. M. Inst. C. E. Illustrated i8mo. . $ 1.5a 

PROCTOR.— A Pocket-Book of Useful Tables and Formulae 
for Marine Engineers : 
By Frank Proctor. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
Full -bound pocket-book form . . . $1-50 

REGNAULT.- Elements of Chemistry: 
By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. Forrest 
Betton, M. D., and edited, with Notes, by James C. Booth, Melter 
and Refiner U. S. Mint, and William L. Faber, Metallurgist and 
Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 wood-engravings. Com- 
prising nearly 1,500 pages. In two volumes, 8vo., cloth . $7.50 

RICHARDS.— Aluminium : 

Its History, Occurrence, Properties, Metallurgy and Applications, 
including its Alloys. By Joseph W. Richards, A. C, Chemist and 
Practical Metallurgist, Member of the Deutsche Chemische Gesell- 
schaft. Illustrated #5 .00 

RIFFAULT, VERGNAUD, and TOUSSAINT.— A Practical 
Treatise on the Manufacture of Colors for Painting : 
Comprising the Origin, Definition, and Classification of Colors; the 
Treatment of the Raw Materials ; the best Formulae and the Newest 
Processes for the Preparation of every description of Pigment, and 
the Necessary Apparatus and Directions for its Use ; Dryers ; tha 
Testing, Application, and Qualities of Paints, etc., etc. By MM. 
Riffault, Vergnaud, and Toussaint. Revised and Edited by M. 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 1% 

T. Malspeyre. Translated from the French, by A. A. FesqUH^ 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by Eighty engravings. In one 
vol.. 8vo., 659 pages $7-5° 

ROPER. — A Catechism of High-Pressure, or Non-Condensing 
Steam-Engines : 
Including the Modelling, Constructing, and Management of Steam- 
Engines and Steam Boilers. With valuable illustrations. By Ste- 
phen Roper, Engineer. Sixteenth edition, revised and enlarged. 
i8mo., tucks, gilt edge $2.oc 

EOPER.— Engineer's Handy-Book: 
Containing a full Explanation of the Steam-Engine Indicator, and its 
Use and Advantages to Engineers and Steam Users. With Formulae 
for Estimating the Power of all Classes of Steam-Engines; also. 
Facts, Figures, Questions, and Tables for Engineers who wish to 
qualify Chemselves for the United States Navy, the Revenue Service, 
the Mercantile Marine, or to take charge of the Better Class of Sta- 
tionary Steam-Engines. Sixth edition. i6mo., 690 pages, tucks, 
gilt edge . $3.50 

fcOPER. — Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines : 

Including the Modelling, Construction, Running, and Management 
of Lane 1 and Marine Engines and Boilers. With illustrations. By 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Sixth edition. i2mo.,ti\cks, gilt edge. 

$3-50 

ROPER.— Hand-Book of the Locomotive : 

Including the Construction of Engines and Boilers, and the Construc- 
tion, Management, and Running of Locomotives. By Stephen 
Roper. Eleventh edition. i8mo., tucks, gilt edge . $2.50 

ROPER. — Hand-Book of Modern Steam Eire-Engines. 

With illustrations. By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Fourth edition, 
i2mo., tucks, gilt edge $3-S° 

ROPER. — Questions and Answers for Engineers. 

This little book contains all the Questions that Engineers will be 
asked when undergoing an Examination for the purpose of procuring 
Licenses, and they are so plain that any Engineer or Fireman of or- 
dinary intelligence may commit them to memory in a short time. By 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Third edition . . . #3.00 

ROPER.— Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. 

By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Eighth edition, with illustrations. 
l8mo., tucks, gilt edge $2,00 

HOSE.— The Complete Practical Machinist: 

Embracing Lathe Work, Vise Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and 
Dies, Hardening and Tempering, the Making and Use of Tools, 
Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, etc. By Joshua Rose. Illus* 
trated by 356 engravings. Thirteenth edition, thoroughly revised 
and in great part rewritten. In one vol., i2mo., 439 pages #2.5(2 

(kOSE.— Mechanical Drawing Self- Taught: 

Comprising Instructions in the Selection and Preparation of Drawing 
Instruments, Elementary Instruction in Practical Mechanical Draw 



*4 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

— — ■ — ■ — ^ 

ing, together with Examples in Simple Geometry and Elementary 
Mechanism, including Screw Threads, Gear Wheels, Mechanical 
Motions, Engines and Boilers. By Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 330 engravings. 8vo., 313 pages .... $4.00 

ROSE.— The Slide- Valve Practically Explained: 

Embracing simple and complete Practical Demonstrations of thv 
operation of each element in a Slide-valve Movement, and illustrat- 
ing the effects of Variations in their Proportions by examples care, 
fully selected from the most recent and successful practice. By 
Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated by 35 engravings . $1.00 

ROSS. — The Blowpipe in Chemistry, Mineralogy and Geology: 

Containing all Known Methods of Anhydrous Analysis, many Work- 
ing Examples, and Instructions for Making Apparatus. By LlEUT.- 
Colonel W. A. Ross, R. A., F. G. S. With 120 Illustrations, 

i2mo #2.00 

SHAW.— Civil Architecture : 

Being a Complete Theoretical and Practical System of Building, con- 
taining the Fundamental Principles of the Art. By Edward Shaw, 
Architect. To which is added a Treatise on Gothic Architecture, etc. 
By Thomas W. Silloway and George M. Harding, Architects. 
The whole illustrated by 102 quarto plates finely engraved on copper. 
Eleventh edition. 4to. ....... $10.00 

SHUNK. — A Practical Treatise on Railway Curves and Loca- 
tion, for Young Engineers. 
By W. F. Shunk, C. E. i2mo. Full bound pocket-book form $2.00 

SLATER.— The Manual of Colors and Dye Wares. 

By J. W. Slater. i2mo fe-oo 

SLOAN. — American Houses: 

A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
26 colored engravings, with descriptive references. By Samuel 
Sloan, Architect. 8vo. $1.50 

SLOAN. — Homestead Architecture: 

Containing Forty Designs for Villas, Cottages, and Farm-houses, with 
Essays on Style, Construction, Landscape Gardening, Furniture, etc., 
etc. Illustrated by upwards of 200 engravings. By SAMUEL Sloan, 

Architect. 8vo $3-S° 

SLOANE. — Home Experiments in Science. 

By T. O' Conor Sloane, E. M., A.M., Ph.D. Illustrated by 91 
engravings. i2mo. $1.50 

SMEATON.— Builder's Pocket-Companion : 

Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Architecture; 
with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with the subject. 
By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, etc. i2mo. . . #1.50 
SMITH.— A Manual of Political Economy. 

By E. Peshine Smith. A New Edition, to which is added a full 
Index. i2mo, $1 25 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 2| 

SMITH. — Parks and Pleasure-Grounds : 

Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks, and 
Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and 
Garden Architect, etc., etc. i2mo. .... $2.00 

SMITH.— The Dyer's Instructor: 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton, 
Wool, and Worsted, and Woolen Goods ; containing nearly 800 
Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding; and 
the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the 
various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such work, 
By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. i2mo. . . . $2.00 

SMYTH. — A Rudimentary Treatise on Coal and Coal-Mining. 
By Warrington W. Smyth, M. A., F. R. G., President R. G. S, 
of Cornwall. Fifth edition, revised and corrected. With numer- 
ous illustrations. i2mo. ...... $ I »7$ 

SNIVELY.— Tables for Systematic Qualitative Chemical AnaU 
ysis. 
By John H. Snively, Phr. D. 8vo. .... £1.00 

SNIVELY.— The Elements of Systematic Qualitative Chemical 
Analysis : 
A Hand-book for Beginners. By John H. Snively, Phr. D. i6mo, 

$2.00 

STOKES. — The Cabinet-Maker and Upholsterer's Companion : 
Comprising the Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet W^ork; 
Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl- Work; the Art of Dyeing and Stain- 
ing Wood, Ivory, Bone, Tortoise-Shell, etc. Directions for Lacker- 
ing, Japanning, and Virnishing ; to make French Polish, Glues, 
Cements, and Compositions; with numerous Receipts, useful to work 
men generally. Bv Stokes. Illustrated. A New Edition, with 
an Appendix upor <ench Polishing, Staining, Imitating, Varnishing^ 
etc., etc. i2mo $1.25 

STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS; 
Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Properties of 
Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines for Testing 
Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in service. By Officers 
of the Ordnance Department, U. S. Army. By authority of the Secre. 
taryofW T ar. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. Quarto . $io.o<2 

SULLIVAN.— Protection to Native Industry. 

By Sir Edward Sullivan, Baronet, author of " Ten Chapters on 
Social Reforms." 8vo. ....... #1.50 

SULZ. — A Treatise on Beverages : 

Or the Complete Practical Bottler. Full instructions for Laboratory 
Work, with Original Practical Recipes for all kinds of Carbonated 
Drinks, Mineral Waters, Flavorings, Extracts, Syrups, etc. By 
Chas. Herman Sulz, Technical Chemist and Practical Bottler, 
Illustrated by 428 Engravings. 818 pp. £vo. . . $10.00 



t6 HENRY CAREY BAIRfcj & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

SYME. — Outlines of an Industrial Science. 
By David Syme. i2mo. . . „ #2.oa 

TABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, 
SQUARE, AND FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 
By Measurement. Cloth ...... 63 

TAYLOR.— Statistics of Coal : 
Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts and 
Manufactures; with their Geographical, Geological, and Commercial 
Distribution and Amount of Production and Consumption on the 
American Continent. With Incidental Statistics of the Iron Manu- 
facture. By R. C. Taylor. Second edition, revised by S. S. Halde- 
man. Illustrated by five Maps and many wood engravings. 8vo., 
cloth #10.00 

TEMPLETON. — The Practical Examinator on Steam and the 
Steam - Engine : 
With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged for the Use of 
Engineers, Students, and others. By William Templeton, En- 
gineer. i2mo. ........ $1.25 

THAUSING. — The Theory and Practice of the Preparation of 
Malt and the Fabrication of Beer: 
With especial reference to the Vienna Process of Brewing. Elab- 
orated from personal experience by Julius E. Thausing, Professor 
at the School for Brewers, and at the Agricultural Institute, Modling, 
near Vienna. Translated from the German by William T. BiLANNT, 
Thoroughly and elaborately edited, with much American matter, and 
according to the latest and most Scientific Practice, by A. Schwarz 
and Dr. A. H. Bauer. Illustrated by 140 Engravings. 8vo., 8r5 
pages #10.00 

THOMAS.— Th© Modern Practice of Photography: 

By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo. .... 75 

THOMPSON.— Political Economy. With Especial Reference 
to the Industrial History of Nations : 
By Robert E. Thompson, M. A., Professor of Social Science in the 
University of Pennsylvania, iamo. .... $1.50 

THOMSON.— Freight Charges Calculator: 

By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent. 2*uno. . . $1.25 

TURNER'S (THE) COMPANION: 

Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric Turn* 
hig; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments; and 
Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter, and 
Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instructions for working them, 
i2mo $1-2$ 

TURNING : Specimens of Fancy Turning Executed on the 

Hand or Foot- Lathe : i 

With Geometric, Oval, and Eccentric Chucks, and Elliptical Cutting 

Frame. By an Amateur. Illustrated by 30 exquisite Photographs. 

4to. . #3.00 



HENRY CAREY BAIRB & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 27 



VAILE. — Galvanized- Iron Cornice-Worker's Manual: 

Containing Instructions in Laying out the Different Mitres, and 
Making Patterns for all kinds of Plain and Circular Work. Also, 
Tables of Weights, Areas and Circumferences of Circles, and othef 
Matter calculated to Benefit the Trade. By Charles A. Vaile. 
Illustrated by twenty-one plates. 4to #5.00 

VILLE. — On Artificial Manures : 

Their Chemical Selection and Scientific Application to Agriculture. 
A series of Lectures given at the Experimental Farm at Vincennes, 
during 1867 and 1874-75. By M. Georges Ville. Translated and 
Edited by William Crookes, F. R. S. Illustrated by thirty-one 

engravings. 8vo., 450 pages $6.00 

VILLE. — The School of Chemical Manures : 

Or, Elementary Principles in the Use of Fertilizing Agents. From 
the French of M. Geo. Ville, by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and En- 
gineer. With Illustrations. i2mo. . . . . #1.25' 

VOGDES. — The Architect's and Builder's Pocket -Companion 
and Price-Book : 

Consisting of a Shoit but Comprehensive Epitome of Decimals, Duo- 
decimals, Geometry and Mensuration ; with Tables of United States 
Measures, Sizes, Weights, Strengths, etc., of Iron, Wood, Stone, 
Brick, Cement and Concretes, Quantities of Materials in given Sizes 
and Dimensions of Wood, Brick and Stone; and full and complete 
Bills of Prices for Carpenter's Work and Painting ; also, Rules for 
Computing and Valuing Brick and Brick W 7 ork, Stone Work, Paint- 
ing, Plastering, with a Vocabulary of Technical Terms, etc. By 
Frank W. Vogdes, Architect, Indianapolis, Ind. Enlarged, revised, 
and corrected. In one volume, 368 pages, full-bound, pocket-book 

form, gilt edges I2.60 

Cloth . 1.59 

VAN CLEVE. — The English and American Mechanic : 

Comprising a Collection of Over Three Thousand Receipts, Rules, 
and Tables, designed for the Use of every Mechanic and Manufac- 
turer. By B. Frank Van Cleve. Illustrated. 500 pp. i2mo. $2.00 

WAHNSCHAFFE.— A Guide to the Scientific Examination 
of Soils : 

Comprising Select Methods of Mechanical and Chemical Analysis 
and Physical Investigation. Translated from the German of Dr. F. 
Wahnschaffe. With additions by William T. Brannt. Illus- 
trated by 25 engravings. i2mo. 177 pages . . . $1.50 

WALL. — Practical Graining : 

With Descriptions of Colors Employed and Tools Used. Illustrated 
by 47 Colored Plates, Representing the Various Woods Used in 
Interior Finishing. By William E. Wall. 8vo. . #2.50 

WALTON.— Coal-Mining Described and Illustrated: 

By Thomas H. Walton, Mining Engineer. Illustrated by 24 large 
and elaborate Plates, after Actual Workings and Apparatus. $5.00 



»8 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CCVS CATALOGUE. 

WARE.— The Sugar Beet. 

\ Including a History of the Beet Sugar Industry in Europe, Varieties 
of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, Tillage, Seeds and Sowings 
Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, Transportation, Conserva* 
tion, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of the Pulp, etc. By Lewh 
S. Ware, C. E., M. E. Illustrated by ninety engravings. 8vo. 

WARN.— The Sheet-Metal Workers Instructor: 

For Zinc, Sheet-Iron, Copper, and Tin-Plate Workers, ate. Contain- 
ing a selection of Geometrical Problems ; also, Practical and Simple 
Rules for Describing the various Patterns required in the different 
branches of the above Trades. By Reuben H. Warn, Practical 
Tin-Plate Worker. To which is added an Appendix, containing 
Instructions for Boiler-Making, Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, 
Rules for Calculating the Weights of different Figures of Iron and 
Steel, Tables of the Weights of Iron, Steel, etc. Illustrated by thirty- 
two Plates and thirty-seven Wood Engravings. 8vo. . $3.00 

WARNER. — New Theorems, Tables, and Diagrams, for the 
Computation of Earth-work : 

Designed for the use of Engineers in Preliminary and Final Estimates. 
of Students in Engineering, and of Contractors and other non-profes. 
sional Computers. In two parts, with an Appendix. Part I. A Prac* 
tical Treatise ; Part II. A Theoretical Treatise, and the Appendix. 
Containing Notes to the Rules and Examples of Part I. ; Explana- 
tions of the Construction of Scales, Tables, and Diagrams, and a 
Treatise upon Equivalent Square Bases and Equivalent Level Heights. 
The whole illustrated by numerous original engravings, comprising 
explanatory cuts for Definitions and Problems, Stereometric Scales 
and Diagrams, and a series of Lithographic Drawings from Models s 
Showing all the Combinations of Solid Forms which occur in Railroad 
Excavations and Embankments. By John Warner, A. M., Mining 
and Mechanical Engineer. Illustrated by 14 Plates. A new, revised 
and improved edition. 8vo. ...... $4.00 

WATSON.— A Manual of the Hand-Lathe : 

Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of all kinds, 
Ivory, Bone and Precious Woods; Dyeing, Coloring, and French 
Polishing; Inlaying by Veneers, and various methods practised to 
produce Elaborate work with Dispatch, and at Small Expense. By 
Egbert P. Watson, Author of " The Modern Practice of American 
Machinists and Engineers." Illustrated by 78 engravings. jl.50 

WATSON. — The Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
Engineers : 
Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, Lathe 
Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow-work generally, with 
the most Economical Speed for the same ; the Results verified by 
Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vise, and on the Floor. Togethef 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 29 

with Workshop Management, Economy of Manufacture, the Steam- 
Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc., etc. By Egbert P. Watson. 
Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. i2mo. . . . $2.50 

IVATSON.— The Theory and Practice of the Art of Weaving 
by Hand and Power ■ 
With Calculations and Tables for the Use of those connected with the 
Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Practical Machine- 
Maker. Illustrated by large Drawings of the best Power Looms. 
8vo. ...*...... #6.00 

WATT. — Tne Art of Soap Making : 

A Practical Hand-book of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, 
Toilet Soaps, etc., including many New Processes, and a Chapter on 
the Recovery of Glycerine from Waste Leys. By Alexander 
Watt. 111. i2mo $3.00 

WEATKERLY.- Treatise on the Art of Boiling Sugar, Crys- 
tallizing, Lozenge-making, Comfits, Gum Goods, 

And other processes for Confectionery, etc., in which are explained, 
in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods of Manufacture 
»g every Description of Raw and Refined Sugar Goods, as sold by 
Confectioaers and others. i2mo $l>S Q 

WIGHTWICK.— Hints to Young Architects: 
Comprising Advice to those who, while yet at school, are destined 
to the Profession; to such as, having passed their pupilage, are about 
to travel ; and to those who, having completed their education, are 
about to practise. Together with a Model Specification involving a 
great variety of instructive and suggestive matter. By George 
WightwicK, Architect. A new edition, revised and considerably 
enlarged ; comprising Treatises on the Principles of Construction 
and Design. By G. Huskisson Guillaume, Architect. Numerous 
^lustrations. One vol. i2mo $2.00 

WTLL. — Tables of Qualitative Chemical Analysis. 
With an Introductory Chapter on the Course of Analysis. By Pro* 
fessor Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Third American, 
from the eleventh German edition. Edited by CHARLES F. HlMES. 
Ph. D., Professor of Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa 
8vo. . . $1-50 

WILLIAMS.— On Heat and Steam : 

Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and Explo* 
sion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illustrated 8vo. 

WILSON.— A Treatise on Steam Boilers : 

Their Strength, Construction, and Economical Working. By Robert 

Wilson. Illustrated l2mo #2.50 

WILSON.— First Principles of Political Economy : 
With Reference to Statesmanship and the Progress of Civilization. 
By Professor W. D. Wilson, of the Cornell University. A new and 
revised edition. i2mo #1.50 



3© HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

WOHLER.-A Hand-Bookof Mineral Analysis: 

By F. WoHLER, Professor of Chemistry in the University of Gottin- 
gen. Edited by Henry B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry in the 
Renssalaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, New York. Illustrated. 
i2mo $3.00 

WORSSAM. — On Mechanical Saws : 

From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1869. By S. W. 
Worssam, Jr. Illustrated by eighteen large plates. 8vo. $2.50 



RECENT ADDITIONS. 

ANDERSON.— The Prospector's Hand-Book : 

A Guide for the Prospector and Traveler in Search of Metal Bearing 
or other Valuable Minerals. By J. W. Anderson. 52 Illustrations. 
i2mo $1.50 

BEAUMONT.— Woollen and Worsted Cloth Manufacture: 

Being a Practical Treatise for the use of all persons employed in the 
manipulation of Textile Fabrics. By Robert Beaumont, M. S. A. 
With over 200 illustration's, including Sketches of Machinery, 
Designs, Cloths, etc. 391 pp. i2mo $2.00 

BRANNT.— The Metallic Alloys : 

A Practical Guide for the Manufacture of all kinds of Alloys, Amal- 
gams and Solders used by Metal Workers, especially by Bell Founders, 
Bronze Workers, Tinsmiths, Gold and Silver Workers, Dentists, etc., 
etc., as well as their Chemical and Physical Properties. Edited 
chiefly from the German of A. Krupp and Andreas Wildberger, with 
additions by Wm. T. Brannt. Illustrated. i2mo. $3-°° 

BRANNT. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Vine- 
gar and Acetates, Cider, and Fruit- Wines : 
Preservation of Fruits and Vegetables by Canning and Evaporation; 
Preparation of Fruit-Butters, Jellies, Marmalades, Catchups, Pickles, 
Mustards, etc. Edited from various sources. By William T. 
Brannt. Illustrated by 79 Engravings. 479 pp. 8vo. $5.00 

BRANNT.— The Metal Worker's Handy-Book of Receipt? 
and Processes : 

Being a Collection of Chemical Formulas and Practical Manipula- 
tions for the working of all Metals ; including the Decoration and 
Beautifying of Articles Manufactured therefrom, as well as their 
Preservation. Edited from various sources. By William T. 
Brannt. Illustrated. i2mo. $2.50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 31 

DEITE.— A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Per- 
fumery : 
Comprising directions for making all kinds of Perfumes, Sachet 
Powders, Fumigating Materials, Dentifrices, Cosmetics, etc., with a 
full account of the Volatile Oils, Balsams, Resins, and other Natural 
and Artificial Perfume-substances, including the Manufacture of 
Fruit Ethers, and tests of their purity. By Dr. C. Deite, assisted 
by L. Borchert, F. Eichbaum, E. Kugler, H. Toeffner, and 
other experts. From the German, by Wm. T. Brannt. 28 Engrav- 
ings. 358 pages. 8vo $3.00 

EDWARDS. — American Marine Engineer, Theoretical and 
Practical : 

With Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice. 
By Emory Edwards. 85 illustrations. i2mo. . . $2.50 

EDWARDS. — 600 Examination Questions and Answers : 

For Engineers and Firemen (Land and Marine) who desire to ob- 
tain a United States Government or State License. Pocket-book 

form, gilt edge $1-5° 

1POSSELT.— Technology of Textile Design : 

Being a Practical Treatise on the Construction and Application of 
Weaves for all Textile Fabrics, with minute reference to the latest 
Inventions for Weaving. Containing also an Appendix, showing 
the Analysis and giving the Calculations necessary for the Manufac- 
ture of the various Textile Fabrics. By E. A. Posselt, Head 
Master Textile Department, Pennsylvania Museum and School of 
Industrial Art, Philadelphia, with over 1 000 illustrations. 292 
pages. 4to $5-°° 

POSSELT. — The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained : 

With an Appendix on the Preparation of Jacquard Cards, and 
Practical Hints to Learners of Jacquard Designing. By E. A. 
Posselt. With 230 illustrations and numerous diagrams. 127 pp. 
4to $300 

POSSELT.— The Structure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics: 
Being a Practical Treatise for the Use of all Persons Employed in 
the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, containing a Description of the 
Growth and Manipulation of Cotton, Wool, Worsted, Silk, Flax, 
Jute, Ramie, China Grass and Hemp, and Dealing with all Manu- 
facturers' Calculations for Every Class of Material, also Giving 
Minute Details for the Structure of all kinds of Textile Fabrics, and 
an Appendix of Arithmetic, specially adapted for Textile Purposes. 
By E. A. Posselt. Over 400 Illustrations, quarto. . #10.00 

RICH. — Artistic Horse-Shoeing: 

A Practical and Scientific Treatise, giving Improved Methods of 
Shoeing, with Special Directions for Shaping Shoes to Cure Different 
Diseases of the Foot, and for the Correction of Faulty Action in 
Trotters. By George E. Rich. 62 Illustrations. 153 pages. 
i2mo $1.00 



32 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 



RICHARDSON.— Practical Blacksmithing : 

A Collection of Articles Contributed at Different Times by Skilled 
Workmen to the columns of " The Blacksmith and Wheelwright," 
and Covering nearly the Whole Range of Blacksmithing, from the 
Simplest Job of Work to some of the Most Complex Forgings. 
Compiled and Edited by M. T. Richardson. 

Vol.1. 210 Illustrations. 224 pages. i2mo. . . $1.00 

Vol. II. 230 Illustrations. 262 pages. i2mo. . . $1.00 
Vol. III. 390 Illustrations. 307 pages. i2tno. , , $1.00 
Vol. IV. 226 Illustrations. 276 pages, i2mo. , . $1.00 

RICHARDSON;.— The Practical Horseshoer: 

Being a Collection of Articles on Horseshoeing in all its Branches 
which have appeared from time to time in the columns of " The 
Blacksmith and Wheelwright," etc. Compiled and edited by M. T. 
Richardson. 174 illustrations #i.oa 

ROPER. — Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and 
Firemen : 
By Stephen Roper, Engineer. i8mo. Morocco . $2.00 

ROPER. — The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management: 
By Stephen Roper, Engineer. i2mo., tuck, gilt edges. $2.00 

ROPER.— The Young Engineer's Own Book : 

Containing an Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which 
the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is Based. By Stephen Roper, 
Engineer. 160 illustrations, 363 pages. i8mo., tuck . $3.00 

ROSE. — Modern Steam- Engines: 

An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam-En gin e, written in Plain 
language ; for Use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. 
Giving Full Explanations of the Construction of Modern Steanv 
Engines : Including Diagrams showing their Actual operation. To- 
gether with Complete but Simple Explanations of the operations of 
Various Kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., 
thereby Enabling the Ordinary Engineer to clearly Understand the 
Principles Involved in their Construction and Use, and to Plot out 
their Movements upon the Drawing Board. By Joshua Rose. M. E. 
Illustrated by 422 engravings. 4to., 320 pages . . $6.00 

ROSE.— Steam Boilers: 

A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination, for the 
Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors; and 
embracing in plain figures all the calculations necessary in Designing 
or Classifying Steam Boilers. By Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 73 engravings. 250 pages. 8vo $2.^Q 

SCHRIBER.— The Complete Carriage and Wagon Painter: 
A Concise Compendium of the Art of Painting Carriages, Wagons, 
and Sleighs, embracing Full Directions in all the Various Branches, 
including Lettering, Scrolling, Ornamenting, Striping, Varnishing, 
and Coloring, with numerous Recipes for Mixing Colors. 73 Illus- 
trations. 177 pp. i2mo. . . . . . . $i,oa 






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